Table of Contents
Overview
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- What you need to know
- Definition
Executive Summary
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- Figure 1: Expenditures and forecast expenditures by Black consumers for haircare products, by segment, at current prices, 2012-22
- The issues
- Natural hair is here to stay
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- Figure 2: Hairstyles worn among Blacks during the last 12 months, May 2017
- Half of Black women use 3-4 products as part of their haircare regimen
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- Figure 3: Number of haircare products used, by gender, May 2017
- Most Blacks perform basic maintenance to save time and money
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- Figure 4: Haircare regimen, May 2017
- Black women are abandoning relaxers, not necessarily straight hairstyles
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- Figure 5: Hairstyles worn in the last 12 months and haircare regimen, by Black females, May 2017
- The opportunities
- Most Blacks take their haircare cues from trusted personal sources, but brand messaging spreads awareness
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- Figure 6: Influences on hair maintenance and styling, May 2017
- Give Blacks tips from professionals on how to achieve optimal results at home
- Ensure brand and product messaging includes all-natural hair consumers
- What it means
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The Market – What You Need to Know
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- Black haircare sales are flat due to opposing categories
- Mainstream brands are making a targeted play for Black consumers
- Online haircare sales growing in importance
- Black Women embrace natural hair, but perhaps at a social cost
Market Size and Forecast
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- Black haircare will grow at a moderate pace
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- Figure 7: Expenditures and fan chart forecast expenditures by Black consumers for haircare products, at current prices, 2012-22
- Figure 8: Expenditures and forecast expenditures by Black consumers for haircare products, at current prices 2012-22
Market Breakdown
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- Styling products rule, but regimen-focused products are growing
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- Figure 9: Expenditures by Black consumers for haircare products, by segment, at current prices, 2015 and 2017
- Figure 10: Expenditures and forecast expenditures by Black consumers for haircare products, by segment, at current prices, 2012-22
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- Figure 11: P&G Pantene Gold shampoo, conditioner and styling magazine advertisement, April 2017
- Shampoo sales growth forecast buoyed by regimen adoption
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- Figure 12: Expenditures and fan chart forecast expenditures by Black consumers for shampoo, at current prices, 2012-22
- Conditioner sales forecast closely mirror shampoo
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- Figure 13: Expenditures and fan chart forecast expenditures by Black consumers for conditioner, at current prices, 2012-22
- Styling products anchor Black haircare sales
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- Figure 14: Expenditures and fan chart forecast expenditures by Black consumers for styling products, at current prices, 2012-22
- Relaxers are slowing becoming a niche product line
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- Figure 15: Expenditures and fan chart forecast expenditures by Black consumers for relaxers, at current prices, 2012-22
- Flat hair color sales reflect desire for expression vs abandoning chemicals
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- Figure 16: Expenditures and fan chart forecast expenditures by Black consumers for hair color, at current prices, 2012-22
Market Perspective
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- Black women embrace natural textures, but may still face bias due to their hairstyle choice
- Black females battle protective and natural hair bans
Market Factors
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- E-commerce an important channel for prestige and emerging brands
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- Figure 17: Store type where haircare products were purchased, July 2016-June 2017
- General market companies create lines specifically for Black consumers
- Ouidad
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- Figure 18: Ouidad Kinky Curls Curl Immersion line, 2016
- Made Beautiful
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- Figure 19: True by Made Beautiful, 2017
- P&G Pantene Gold Series
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- Figure 20: Pantene Pro-V Gold products, April 2017
- Figure 21: Pantene Gold magazine advertisement, May 2017
- Figure 22: Pantene anthem television commercial, 2017
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- Figure 23: Pantene promotional video featuring Gold product line scientists, 2016
Key Players – What You Need to Know
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- First-recognized $100+ million Black brand
- Regimen-focused product lines dominate sales
- The shift from targeted to inclusive messaging elicits alarm among core consumers
- Innovation within the market centered on individual solutions
Manufacturer Sales of Black Haircare Products
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- Double-digit growth among Black brands focused on natural regimen
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- Figure 24: MULO sales of Black-targeted haircare product brands, by leading companies, rolling 52 weeks, 2016 and 2017
Breakdown of Manufacturer Sales of Black Haircare Products
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- Black-targeted haircare product growth within natural regimen lines
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- Figure 25: MULO sales and percentage change of Black-targeted haircare products, by segment, rolling 52 weeks, 2016 and 2017
- SheaMoisture captured half of the shampoo category
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- Figure 26: MULO sales of Black-targeted shampoo, by leading companies and brands, rolling 52 weeks, 2016 and 2017
- Sales growth of conditioners may signal its double duty among Black consumers
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- Figure 27: MULO sales of Black-targeted conditioners, by leading companies and brands, rolling 52 weeks, 2016 and 2017
- Soft growth in styling may be attributed to new products cannibalizing mature products
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- Figure 28: MULO sales of Black-targeted styling products, by leading companies and brands, rolling 52 weeks, 2016 and 2017
- Relaxer sales continue to fall; children’s texturizers are the sole bright spot
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- Figure 29: MULO sales of Black hair relaxer products, by leading companies and brands, rolling 52 weeks, 2016 and 2017
- SoftSheen-Carson’s Dark and Lovely hair color shifts focus to naturals
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- Figure 30: MULO sales of Black-targeted hair color products, by leading companies and brands, rolling 52 weeks, 2016 and 2017
- Figure 31: SoftSheen-Carson’s Dark and Lovely Color Gloss magazine advertisement, march 2017
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- Figure 32: Hoyu Bigen magazine advertisement, March 2017
What’s Working?
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- Mainstream retailers stock variety of natural hair product lines
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- Figure 33: Sally Beauty Supply/Carol’s Daughter magazine advertisement, March 2017
- Regimen-focused product lines continue to grow
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- Figure 34: MULO sales estimates for Black-targeted shampoo, conditioner and styling products among leading brands, 2016-17
- Figure 35: Series of SheaMoisture regimen-focused product advertising, September, 2016
- Milder relaxer products made for kids most likely used by adults
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- Figure 36: MULO Strength of Nature relaxer sales, 2016-17
What’s Struggling?
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- Black-targeted brands that shift marketing efforts to be inclusive risk losing their base
- SheaMoisture
- Carol’s Daughter
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- Figure 37: Carol’s Daughter “Made with Love” television commercial, April 2017
- Relaxer sales continue to drop, not sure where they will hit bottom
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- Figure 38: MULO at-home relaxer sales, 2012-17 (est)
What’s Next?
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- Tailored hair regimen solutions by consumer activity
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- Figure 39: FORM Beauty brand introduction video, 2017
- Haircare companies help consumers mix their own product formulas
- Products for naturals who wear straight hairstyles
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- Figure 40: Heat protectant creams, 2016-17
- Regimen products and education to help naturals wear a “wash and go”
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- Figure 41: L’Oréal SoftSheen-Carson, Dark and Lovely Au Naturale magazine ad, April 2017
- Black haircare meets the sharing economy
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- Figure 42: BeautyLynk Promotional video, 2016
The Consumer – What You Need to Know
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- Natural hair is the norm
- Black women have abandoned relaxers, but not necessarily straight hairstyles
- “Wash day” is time consuming, but everyday styling is quick and simple
- Most Blacks perform basic hair maintenance, but styling is periodic
- Blacks look to people they trust for hair inspiration, including themselves
- Advertising and editorial geared toward Black consumers builds brand/product awareness and drives consideration
Black Consumer Haircare Segments: Overview
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- Mintel defined Black haircare consumer groups by attitude, behavior and perceptions
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- Figure 43: Overview of the four female Black haircare segments, May 2017
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- Figure 44: Black female haircare segments, 2015-17
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- Figure 45: Demographic profile of female segments, May 2017
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- Figure 46: Overview of the three male Black haircare segments, May 2017
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- Figure 47: Black male haircare segments, 2015-17
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- Figure 48: Demographic profile of male segments, May 2017
Black Hair Texture Categorization
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- Most Blacks categorize hair type based on natural look, but a small segment categorize based on final look
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- Figure 49: Natural hair categories
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- Figure 50: Blacks’ natural hair texture, May 2017
- Black women and men report having the same textures with some variation
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- Figure 51: Blacks’ natural hair texture, by gender, May 2017
Hairstyles Worn in the Last 12 Months
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- Natural hairstyles among Blacks now the norm
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- Figure 52: Hairstyles worn in the last 12 months, May 2017
- Hairstyle perception among some “straight” textured Blacks contradicts practice
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- Figure 53: Natural hair texture, by hairstyle, May 2017
- Black women wear natural, but manipulated hair styles, Black men opt for low maintenance
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- Figure 54: Hairstyles worn in the last 12 months – natural, by gender, May 2017
- Over a third of Black women wear their hair chemically relaxed, others wear protective hairstyles
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- Figure 55: Hairstyles worn in the last 12 months – Not natural only, by gender, May 2017
- College-degreed Blacks prefer natural hairstyles, signals acceptance in the workplace
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- Figure 56: Hairstyles worn in the last 12 months – natural, by educational attainment, May 2017
- Young Black women prefer natural and protective hairstyles
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- Figure 57: Hairstyles worn by Black women in the last 12 months, by age, May 2017
- Most women across segments wear natural hairstyles, but vary on type
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- Figure 58: Hairstyles worn in the last 12 months - nets, by haircare segments, May 2017
Time Spent and Product Usage on Haircare Maintenance
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- Hair maintenance time spent on “wash day” can be up to almost three times longer than an average day
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- Figure 59: Basic maintenance and styling time spent, May 2017
- Blacks who wear protective styles spend the most time maintaining their hair
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- Figure 60: Basic maintenance and styling time spent, by selected hairstyles, May 2017
- Black women drive high “wash day” maintenance time spent, but reduce steps on an average day
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- Figure 61: Basic maintenance and styling time spent, by gender, May 2017
- Young Blacks spend more time on their hair, mostly likely creating their natural hair look
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- Figure 62: Basic maintenance and styling time spent, by age, May 2017
- Most Blacks use only 1-2 haircare products at home, but half of Black women use 3-4
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- Figure 63: Number of haircare products used, by gender, May 2017
Haircare Regimen
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- Most Blacks cover basic maintenance at home, but are split on more complicated tasks
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- Figure 64: Haircare regimen, May 2017
- Blacks with protective styles complete the most steps at home
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- Figure 65: Haircare regimen, by hairstyle, May 2017
- Most Blacks shampoo and condition their hair once a week; treatment application less frequently
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- Figure 66: Haircare regimen – Basic maintenance, by frequency, May 2017
- Styling hair at home is sporadic and may be done only when necessary
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- Figure 67: Haircare regimen – Styling, by frequency, May 2017
- Most Blacks have abandoned chemical treatments at home and the salon
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- Figure 68: Haircare regimen – Chemical treatments and salon services, by frequency, May 2017
Influences on Hair Maintenance and Styling
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- Blacks take their hair maintenance and styling cues from their personal connections and advertising
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- Figure 69: Influences on hair maintenance and styling, May 2017
- Black women more likely to seek guidance in advertising, Black men look to people they admire
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- Figure 70: Influences on hair maintenance and styling, by gender, May 2017
- Blacks with potentially damaging hairstyles more likely to be influenced by trusted sources
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- Figure 71: Influences on hair maintenance and styling, by hairstyle, May 2017
- Trendy Naturalistas influenced by external sources, others by inner circle or themselves
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- Figure 72: Influences on hair maintenance and styling, by female haircare segments, May 2017
Haircare Maintenance and Product Attitudes
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- Blacks prefer haircare products made just for them because they perform as expected
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- Figure 73: Haircare maintenance and product attributes, May 2017
- “Naturals” prefer brands that cater to their styling needs and overall health
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- Figure 74: Haircare maintenance and product attributes, by hairstyle, May 2017
- Black women demonstrate deeper engagement with their hair
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- Figure 75: Haircare maintenance and product attributes, by gender, May 2017
- Younger Blacks like to experiment with new products and styles while older Blacks stick to what is familiar
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- Figure 76: Haircare maintenance and product attributes, by age, May 2017
- Experimentation and reasons for haircare product purchases vary across segments
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- Figure 77: Haircare maintenance and product attitudes, by female haircare segments, May 2017
Appendix – Data Sources and Abbreviations
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- Data sources
- Sales data
- Fan chart forecast
- Consumer survey data
- Consumer qualitative research
- Abbreviations and terms
- Abbreviations
- Terms
Appendix – The Market
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- Figure 78: Expenditures by Black consumers for haircare products, at current prices, 2012-22
- Figure 79: Expenditures by Black consumers for haircare products, at inflation-adjusted prices, 2012-22
- Figure 80: Expenditures by Black consumers for haircare products, by segment, at current prices, 2015 and 2017
- Figure 81: Expenditures by Black consumers on shampoo, at current prices, 2012-22
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- Figure 82: Expenditures by Black consumers on shampoo, at inflation-adjusted prices, 2012-22
- Figure 83: Expenditures by Black consumers on conditioner, at current prices, 2012-22
- Figure 84: Expenditures by Black consumers on conditioner, at inflation-adjusted prices, 2012-22
- Figure 85: Expenditures by Black consumers on styling products, at current prices, 2012-22
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- Figure 86: Expenditures by Black consumers on styling products, at inflation-adjusted prices, 2012-22
- Figure 87: Expenditures by Black consumers on relaxers, at current prices, 2012-22
- Figure 88: Expenditures by Black consumers on relaxers, at inflation-adjusted prices, 2012-22
- Figure 89: Expenditures by Black consumers on hair color, at current prices, 2012-22
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- Figure 90: Expenditures by Black consumers on hair color, at inflation-adjusted prices, 2012-22
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