Author: Mintel Group Ltd.
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Black Haircare - US - August 2017

OVERVIEW
What you need to know
Definition
EXECUTIVE SUMMARY 
Figure 1: Expenditures and forecast expenditures by Black consumers for haircare products, by segment, at current prices, 2012-22
The issues
Natural hair is here to stay
Figure 2: Hairstyles worn among Blacks during the last 12 months, May 2017
Half of Black women use 3-4 products as part of their haircare regimen
Figure 3: Number of haircare products used, by gender, May 2017
Most Blacks perform basic maintenance to save time and money
Figure 4: Haircare regimen, May 2017
Black women are abandoning relaxers, not necessarily straight hairstyles
Figure 5: Hairstyles worn in the last 12 months and haircare regimen, by Black females, May 2017
The opportunities
Most Blacks take their haircare cues from trusted personal sources, but brand messaging spreads awareness
Figure 6: Influences on hair maintenance and styling, May 2017
Give Blacks tips from professionals on how to achieve optimal results at home
Ensure brand and product messaging includes all-natural hair consumers
What it means
THE MARKET – WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW
Black haircare sales are flat due to opposing categories
Mainstream brands are making a targeted play for Black consumers
Online haircare sales growing in importance
Black Women embrace natural hair, but perhaps at a social cost
MARKET SIZE AND FORECAST
Black haircare will grow at a moderate pace
Figure 7: Expenditures and fan chart forecast expenditures by Black consumers for haircare products, at current prices, 2012-22
Figure 8: Expenditures and forecast expenditures by Black consumers for haircare products, at current prices 2012-22
MARKET BREAKDOWN
Styling products rule, but regimen-focused products are growing
Figure 9: Expenditures by Black consumers for haircare products, by segment, at current prices, 2015 and 2017
Figure 10: Expenditures and forecast expenditures by Black consumers for haircare products, by segment, at current prices, 2012-22
Figure 11: P&G Pantene Gold shampoo, conditioner and styling magazine advertisement, April 2017
Shampoo sales growth forecast buoyed by regimen adoption
Figure 12: Expenditures and fan chart forecast expenditures by Black consumers for shampoo, at current prices, 2012-22
Conditioner sales forecast closely mirror shampoo
Figure 13: Expenditures and fan chart forecast expenditures by Black consumers for conditioner, at current prices, 2012-22
Styling products anchor Black haircare sales
Figure 14: Expenditures and fan chart forecast expenditures by Black consumers for styling products, at current prices, 2012-22
Relaxers are slowing becoming a niche product line
Figure 15: Expenditures and fan chart forecast expenditures by Black consumers for relaxers, at current prices, 2012-22
Flat hair color sales reflect desire for expression vs abandoning chemicals
Figure 16: Expenditures and fan chart forecast expenditures by Black consumers for hair color, at current prices, 2012-22
MARKET PERSPECTIVE
Black women embrace natural textures, but may still face bias due to their hairstyle choice
Black females battle protective and natural hair bans
MARKET FACTORS 
E-commerce an important channel for prestige and emerging brands
Figure 17: Store type where haircare products were purchased, July 2016-June 2017
General market companies create lines specifically for Black consumers
Ouidad
Figure 18: Ouidad Kinky Curls Curl Immersion line, 2016
Made Beautiful
Figure 19: True by Made Beautiful, 2017
P&G Pantene Gold Series
Figure 20: Pantene Pro-V Gold products, April 2017
Figure 21: Pantene Gold magazine advertisement, May 2017
Figure 22: Pantene anthem television commercial, 2017
Figure 23: Pantene promotional video featuring Gold product line scientists, 2016
KEY PLAYERS – WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW 
First-recognized $100+ million Black brand
Regimen-focused product lines dominate sales
The shift from targeted to inclusive messaging elicits alarm among core consumers
Innovation within the market centered on individual solutions
MANUFACTURER SALES OF BLACK HAIRCARE PRODUCTS
Double-digit growth among Black brands focused on natural regimen
Figure 24: MULO sales of Black-targeted haircare product brands, by leading companies, rolling 52 weeks, 2016 and 2017
BREAKDOWN OF MANUFACTURER SALES OF BLACK HAIRCARE PRODUCTS
Black-targeted haircare product growth within natural regimen lines
Figure 25: MULO sales and percentage change of Black-targeted haircare products, by segment, rolling 52 weeks, 2016 and 2017
SheaMoisture captured half of the shampoo category
Figure 26: MULO sales of Black-targeted shampoo, by leading companies and brands, rolling 52 weeks, 2016 and 2017
Sales growth of conditioners may signal its double duty among Black consumers
Figure 27: MULO sales of Black-targeted conditioners, by leading companies and brands, rolling 52 weeks, 2016 and 2017
Soft growth in styling may be attributed to new products cannibalizing mature products
Figure 28: MULO sales of Black-targeted styling products, by leading companies and brands, rolling 52 weeks, 2016 and 2017
Relaxer sales continue to fall; children’s texturizers are the sole bright spot
Figure 29: MULO sales of Black hair relaxer products, by leading companies and brands, rolling 52 weeks, 2016 and 2017
SoftSheen-Carson’s Dark and Lovely hair color shifts focus to naturals
Figure 30: MULO sales of Black-targeted hair color products, by leading companies and brands, rolling 52 weeks, 2016 and 2017
Figure 31: SoftSheen-Carson’s Dark and Lovely Color Gloss magazine advertisement, march 2017
Figure 32: Hoyu Bigen magazine advertisement, March 2017
WHAT’S WORKING?
Mainstream retailers stock variety of natural hair product lines
Figure 33: Sally Beauty Supply/Carol’s Daughter magazine advertisement, March 2017
Regimen-focused product lines continue to grow
Figure 34: MULO sales estimates for Black-targeted shampoo, conditioner and styling products among leading brands, 2016-17
Figure 35: Series of SheaMoisture regimen-focused product advertising, September, 2016
Milder relaxer products made for kids most likely used by adults
Figure 36: MULO Strength of Nature relaxer sales, 2016-17
WHAT’S STRUGGLING?
Black-targeted brands that shift marketing efforts to be inclusive risk losing their base
SheaMoisture
Carol’s Daughter
Figure 37: Carol’s Daughter “Made with Love” television commercial, April 2017
Relaxer sales continue to drop, not sure where they will hit bottom
Figure 38: MULO at-home relaxer sales, 2012-17 (est)
WHAT’S NEXT?
Tailored hair regimen solutions by consumer activity
Figure 39: FORM Beauty brand introduction video, 2017
Haircare companies help consumers mix their own product formulas
Products for naturals who wear straight hairstyles
Figure 40: Heat protectant creams, 2016-17
Regimen products and education to help naturals wear a “wash and go”
Figure 41: L’Oréal SoftSheen-Carson, Dark and Lovely Au Naturale magazine ad, April 2017
Black haircare meets the sharing economy
Figure 42: BeautyLynk Promotional video, 2016
THE CONSUMER – WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW 
Natural hair is the norm
Black women have abandoned relaxers, but not necessarily straight hairstyles
“Wash day” is time consuming, but everyday styling is quick and simple
Most Blacks perform basic hair maintenance, but styling is periodic
Blacks look to people they trust for hair inspiration, including themselves
Advertising and editorial geared toward Black consumers builds brand/product awareness and drives consideration
BLACK CONSUMER HAIRCARE SEGMENTS: OVERVIEW
Mintel defined Black haircare consumer groups by attitude, behavior and perceptions
Figure 43: Overview of the four female Black haircare segments, May 2017
Figure 44: Black female haircare segments, 2015-17
Figure 45: Demographic profile of female segments, May 2017
Figure 46: Overview of the three male Black haircare segments, May 2017
Figure 47: Black male haircare segments, 2015-17
Figure 48: Demographic profile of male segments, May 2017
BLACK HAIR TEXTURE CATEGORIZATION
Most Blacks categorize hair type based on natural look, but a small segment categorize based on final look
Figure 49: Natural hair categories
Figure 50: Blacks’ natural hair texture, May 2017
Black women and men report having the same textures with some variation
Figure 51: Blacks’ natural hair texture, by gender, May 2017
HAIRSTYLES WORN IN THE LAST 12 MONTHS
Natural hairstyles among Blacks now the norm
Figure 52: Hairstyles worn in the last 12 months, May 2017
Hairstyle perception among some “straight” textured Blacks contradicts practice
Figure 53: Natural hair texture, by hairstyle, May 2017
Black women wear natural, but manipulated hair styles, Black men opt for low maintenance
Figure 54: Hairstyles worn in the last 12 months – natural, by gender, May 2017
Over a third of Black women wear their hair chemically relaxed, others wear protective hairstyles
Figure 55: Hairstyles worn in the last 12 months – Not natural only, by gender, May 2017
College-degreed Blacks prefer natural hairstyles, signals acceptance in the workplace
Figure 56: Hairstyles worn in the last 12 months – natural, by educational attainment, May 2017
Young Black women prefer natural and protective hairstyles
Figure 57: Hairstyles worn by Black women in the last 12 months, by age, May 2017
Most women across segments wear natural hairstyles, but vary on type
Figure 58: Hairstyles worn in the last 12 months - nets, by haircare segments, May 2017
TIME SPENT AND PRODUCT USAGE ON HAIRCARE MAINTENANCE
Hair maintenance time spent on “wash day” can be up to almost three times longer than an average day
Figure 59: Basic maintenance and styling time spent, May 2017
Blacks who wear protective styles spend the most time maintaining their hair
Figure 60: Basic maintenance and styling time spent, by selected hairstyles, May 2017
Black women drive high “wash day” maintenance time spent, but reduce steps on an average day
Figure 61: Basic maintenance and styling time spent, by gender, May 2017
Young Blacks spend more time on their hair, mostly likely creating their natural hair look
Figure 62: Basic maintenance and styling time spent, by age, May 2017
Most Blacks use only 1-2 haircare products at home, but half of Black women use 3-4
Figure 63: Number of haircare products used, by gender, May 2017
HAIRCARE REGIMEN
Most Blacks cover basic maintenance at home, but are split on more complicated tasks
Figure 64: Haircare regimen, May 2017
Blacks with protective styles complete the most steps at home
Figure 65: Haircare regimen, by hairstyle, May 2017
Most Blacks shampoo and condition their hair once a week; treatment application less frequently
Figure 66: Haircare regimen – Basic maintenance, by frequency, May 2017
Styling hair at home is sporadic and may be done only when necessary
Figure 67: Haircare regimen – Styling, by frequency, May 2017
Most Blacks have abandoned chemical treatments at home and the salon
Figure 68: Haircare regimen – Chemical treatments and salon services, by frequency, May 2017
INFLUENCES ON HAIR MAINTENANCE AND STYLING
Blacks take their hair maintenance and styling cues from their personal connections and advertising
Figure 69: Influences on hair maintenance and styling, May 2017
Black women more likely to seek guidance in advertising, Black men look to people they admire
Figure 70: Influences on hair maintenance and styling, by gender, May 2017
Blacks with potentially damaging hairstyles more likely to be influenced by trusted sources
Figure 71: Influences on hair maintenance and styling, by hairstyle, May 2017
Trendy Naturalistas influenced by external sources, others by inner circle or themselves
Figure 72: Influences on hair maintenance and styling, by female haircare segments, May 2017
HAIRCARE MAINTENANCE AND PRODUCT ATTITUDES
Blacks prefer haircare products made just for them because they perform as expected
Figure 73: Haircare maintenance and product attributes, May 2017
“Naturals” prefer brands that cater to their styling needs and overall health
Figure 74: Haircare maintenance and product attributes, by hairstyle, May 2017
Black women demonstrate deeper engagement with their hair
Figure 75: Haircare maintenance and product attributes, by gender, May 2017
Younger Blacks like to experiment with new products and styles while older Blacks stick to what is familiar
Figure 76: Haircare maintenance and product attributes, by age, May 2017
Experimentation and reasons for haircare product purchases vary across segments
Figure 77: Haircare maintenance and product attitudes, by female haircare segments, May 2017
APPENDIX – DATA SOURCES AND ABBREVIATIONS
Data sources
Sales data
Fan chart forecast
Consumer survey data
Consumer qualitative research
Abbreviations and terms
Abbreviations
Terms
APPENDIX – THE MARKET 
Figure 78: Expenditures by Black consumers for haircare products, at current prices, 2012-22
Figure 79: Expenditures by Black consumers for haircare products, at inflation-adjusted prices, 2012-22
Figure 80: Expenditures by Black consumers for haircare products, by segment, at current prices, 2015 and 2017
Figure 81: Expenditures by Black consumers on shampoo, at current prices, 2012-22
Figure 82: Expenditures by Black consumers on shampoo, at inflation-adjusted prices, 2012-22
Figure 83: Expenditures by Black consumers on conditioner, at current prices, 2012-22
Figure 84: Expenditures by Black consumers on conditioner, at inflation-adjusted prices, 2012-22
Figure 85: Expenditures by Black consumers on styling products, at current prices, 2012-22
Figure 86: Expenditures by Black consumers on styling products, at inflation-adjusted prices, 2012-22
Figure 87: Expenditures by Black consumers on relaxers, at current prices, 2012-22
Figure 88: Expenditures by Black consumers on relaxers, at inflation-adjusted prices, 2012-22
Figure 89: Expenditures by Black consumers on hair color, at current prices, 2012-22
Figure 90: Expenditures by Black consumers on hair color, at inflation-adjusted prices, 2012-22

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