Table of Contents
Introduction and Abbreviations
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- Definitions
- Research methodology
- Consumer research
- Definitions
- Other research
- Abbreviations
Executive Summary
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- Market slowdown for international designers
- Being more democratised brings more exposure to the economic cycle
- Designerwear underperforms overall clothing market
- Few consumers buying more designerwear
- But many feeling less well off
- Strong growth in consumer spending and low unemployment
- Media and celebrities fuelling awareness of designer labels
- The luxury market is changing
- Defining a ‘designer’ brand
- International designers buying back control
- Selling more through a ‘pyramid’ structure
- Multi-brand strategies a key trend
- Most popular designers
- Is designerwear overpriced?
- A wide spread of prices for women’s designer labels
- Pricing for menswear
- Importance of department stores increasing for designerwear
- Independents important but number of designer stores increasing
- Factory outlet centres for a family ‘day out’
- Pyramid shape of industry affects distribution
- Designer stores offer a total vision
- Top department store expansion
- Mainstream high street competition
- Designers in the mainstream arena
- Do diffusion lines in the mainstream damage designer names?
- The importance of designers themselves
- Counterfeiting and parallel trading
- The future
Retail Sales
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- All retail sales
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- Figure 1: All retail sales, at current and constant 1995 prices, 1995-2003
- Retail sales through clothing specialists
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- Figure 2: Sales through clothing specialists, at current and constant 1995 prices, 1995-2003
- Sales through non-specialist non-food retailers
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- Figure 3: Sales through non-specialist non-food retailers, at current and constant 1995 prices, 1995-2003
Sector Structure
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- Main channels
- Pyramid shape industry
- Links with multiples
- Counterfeiting and parallel trading
- Haute couture
- The major groups
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- Figure 4: Corporate ownership of designer brands, 2003
- Retail outlets of the designer brands
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- Figure 5: Designers standalone stores in the UK, 2003
- Department stores
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- Figure 6: Designers working with Designers at Debenhams, 2003
- Multiple clothing chains
- Independents
- Discount/value retailers/supermarkets
- Factory outlet centres
- Mail order
- Internet
- Airports
- Other – second-hand
Consumer Expenditure
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- Consumer spend on all clothing
- Consumer spend on men’s and women’s designerwear
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- Figure 7: UK retail sales of men’s and women’s designerwear, 1998-2003
- Comparative analysis of men’s and women’s designerwear
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- Figure 8: Trends in consumer spending on women’s and men’s designerwear, 1998-2003
- Figure 9: Consumer spending on women’s and men’s designerwear, 1998-2003
Market Factors
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- PDI and consumer expenditure
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- Figure 10: PDI and consumer expenditure, at current and constant 1998 prices, 1998-2007
- Trends in employment
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- Figure 11: Workforce in employment in the UK, by gender and employment status, 1998-2007
- Demographic trends
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- Figure 12: Trends and projections in UK population, by age group, 1998-2007
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- Figure 13: UK adult population, by socio-economic group, 1998-2007
- Tourism
- Fashion trends
- Celebrities
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- Figure 14: Circulation figures of a selection of celebrity and fashion magazines, July 2003
- Consumer awareness
- Counterfeiting and parallel trading
- Conclusions and implications
The Consumer
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- Designer labels purchased
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- Figure 15: Designer labels purchased in the last 12 months, by gender, August 2003
- Characteristics of purchasers of designer labels
- Penetration by age and socio-economic group
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- Figure 16: Purchasers of designer label clothing in the last 12 months, by gender, age and socio-economic group, August 2003
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- Figure 17: Purchasers of designer label clothing in the last 12 months, by gender, age and socio-economic group, August 2003
- Penetration by lifestage and Special Groups
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- Figure 18: Purchasers of designer label clothing in the last 12 months, by working status, lifestage and Special Groups, August 2003
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- Figure 19: Purchases of designer label clothing in the last 12 months, by working status, lifestage and Special Groups, August 2003
- Penetration by region and ACORN categories
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- Figure 20: Purchasers of designer label clothing in the last 12 months, by region and ACORN categories, August 2003
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- Figure 21: Purchases of designer label clothing in the last 12 months, by region and ACORN categories, August 2003
- Penetration by media, TV viewing and supermarket usage
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- Figure 22: Purchasers of designer label clothing in the last 12 months, by media, TV viewing and supermarket usage, August 2003
- Figure 23: Purchases of designer label clothing in the last 12 months, by media, TV viewing and supermarket usage, August 2003
- Source of designer label purchases
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- Figure 24: Source of designer label clothing purchases in the last 12 months, by gender, August 2003
- Characteristics of those shopping at leading types of store
- Penetration by age and socio-economic group
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- Figure 25: Source of designer label clothing purchases in the last 12 months, by gender, age and socio-economic group, August 2003
- Penetration by working status, lifestage and Special Groups
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- Figure 26: Source of designer label clothing purchases in the last 12 months, by lifestage and Special Groups, August 2003
- Penetration by region and ACORN categories
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- Figure 27: Source of designer label clothing purchases in the last 12 months, by region and ACORN categories, August 2003
- Penetration by media, TV viewing and supermarket usage
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- Figure 28: Source of designer label clothing purchases in the last 12 months, by media, TV viewing and supermarket usage, August 2003
Consumer Attitudes and Typologies
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- Attitudes towards designer label clothing
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- Figure 29: Responses to statement: ‘A designer label improves a person’s image’, 1998-2003
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- Figure 30: Response to statement: ‘A designer label improves a person’s image’, by demographic sub-group, 2003
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- Figure 31: Responses to statement: ‘I wear designer clothes’, 2001-03
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- Figure 32: Response to statement: ‘I wear designer clothes’, by demographic sub-group, 2003
- Figure 33: Attitudes towards designer label clothing, August 2003
- Shopper repertoires
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- Figure 34: Repertoires of designer label clothing brands purchased in the last 12 months, August 2003
- Customer typologies
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- Figure 35: Breakdown of customer typologies for designer label clothing, August 2003
- Characteristics of customer typologies
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- Figure 36: Customer typologies for designer label clothing, by gender, age and socio-economic group, August 2003
- Figure 37: Customer typologies for designer label clothing, by working status, lifestage and Mintel’s Special Groups, August 2003
- Figure 38: Customer typologies for designer label clothing, by region and ACORN categories, August 2003
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- Figure 39: Customer typologies for designer label clothing, by media, viewing commercial TV and regular grocery shopping, August 2003
- Characteristics of those agreeing with statements
- Agreement by age and socio-economic group
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- Figure 40: Agreement with statements relating to designer-label clothing, by gender, age and socio-economic group, August 2003
- Figure 41: Agreement with statements relating to designer-label clothing, by gender, age and socio-economic group, August 2003
- Agreement by working status, lifestage and Special Groups
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- Figure 42: Agreement with statements relating to designer-label clothing, by working status, lifestage and Special Groups, August 2003
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- Figure 43: Agreement with statements relating to designer-label clothing, by working status, lifestage and Special Groups, August 2003
- Agreement by region and ACORN categories
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- Figure 44: Agreement with statements relating to designer-label clothing, by region and ACORN categories, August 2003
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- Figure 45: Agreement with statements relating to designer-label clothing, by region and ACORN categories, August 2003
- Agreement by media, TV viewing and supermarket usage
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- Figure 46: Agreement with statements relating to designer-label clothing, by media, TV viewing and supermarket usage, August 2003
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- Figure 47: Agreement with statements relating to designer-label clothing, by media, TV viewing and supermarket usage, August 2003
- Attitudes by designer labels purchased and stores used
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- Figure 48: Agreement with statements relating to designer-label clothing, by purchasers of designer labels, August 2003
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- Figure 49: Agreement with statements relating to designer-label clothing, by purchasers of designer labels, August 2003
- Figure 50: Agreement with statements relating to designer-label clothing, by purchasers of designer labels at major types of store, August 2003
Retail Market Shares
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- Figure 51: Market shares of outlets selling women’s designerwear, 2000 and 2002
- Figure 52: Market shares of outlets selling men’s designerwear, 2000 and 2002
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- Figure 53: Market shares for outlets selling designerwear, 2002
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Retailer Profiles
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- The designers
- Aeffe Fashion Group
- Gucci Group
- Christian Dior and LVMH
- Marzotto
- Prada Group
- Richemont
- Giorgio Armani
- Betty Jackson
- Burberry
- Calvin Klein
- Dolce & Gabbana
- Jasper Conran
- John Rocha
- Nicole Farhi
- Paul Smith
- Polo Ralph Lauren
- Tommy Hilfiger
- Versace
- Caroline Charles
- Vivienne Westwood
- Department stores
- Debenhams
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- Figure 54: Debenhams, stores and productivity, 1997-2003
- Figure 55: Debenhams: UK planned store opening programme, Autumn 2004-07
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- Figure 56: Designers working with Designers at Debenhams in menswear, womenswear and lingerie, Autumn 2003
- Figure 57: Debenhams, financial performance, 1997-2003
- House of Fraser
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- Figure 58: House of Fraser, stores and productivity, 1997-2003
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- Figure 59: House of Fraser, financial performance, 1997-2003
- Harrods
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- Figure 60: New designers/fashion collections at Harrods for Autumn 2003
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- Figure 61: Harrods, financial performance, 1997-2002
- Harvey Nichols
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- Figure 62: Harvey Nichols, stores and productivity, 1997-2003
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- Figure 63: Harvey Nichols, financial performance, 1997-2002
- Liberty
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- Figure 64: Liberty, financial performance, 1997-2002
- Selfridges
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- Figure 65: Selfridges, stores and productivity, 1997-2004
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- Figure 66: Selfridges, financial performance, 1997-2003
- Jenners
- Hoopers
- Other department stores
- Other clothing multiples
- Independents
- Discount/value stores/supermarkets
- Sainsbury’s
- Factory outlet centres
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- Figure 67: UK: Factory outlet centres in operation, May 2003
- Mail order/Internet
- haburi.com
- Net-A-Porter.com
- yoox.com
Trade Perspective
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- Defining the market
- Current trading
- What is driving the designerwear market?
- Advertising, marketing and stores
- Who are the most important designers?
- Major concerns going forward
- Retailer diffusion ranges
- Celebrity culture
- Counterfeiting/parallel trading
- Maintaining exclusivity and desirability
- Pricing
- Future of the designerwear market
The Future
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- Factors most likely to affect the retailing of designer clothing
- How will product ranges develop?
- How will different retail sectors develop and what are their prospects?
Forecast
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- A stable market
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- Figure 68: Forecast of the UK designerwear market, at current and constant 2003 prices, 2003-07
- Creativity and quality major drivers of demand
- Wider versus controlled availability
- Celebrities good for increasing awareness
- Factors incorporated
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