Table of Contents
Executive Summary
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- UK
- Fast fashion, better value and continued expansion help to drive strong market growth
- Clothing specialists outpace market growth
- Consolidated sector
- M&S stays at the top despite a volatile performance
- Next continues to close the gap and TK Maxx leaps up the rankings
- Domestic players dominate the leader board
- Department and variety stores largest non-specialist channel
- ASDA and Tesco turn up the heat
- Merger and acquisition activity remains high
- Forecasts
- Europe
- Italy and the UK close the gap on Germany
- Clothing market contracts in five countries
- Hungary and Greece the star performers
- Eastern Europe still well adrift on per capita spend
- Clothing specialists losing share of all retail sales
- Several factors at play
- UK’s specialists sector holds pole position
- Growth rates vary greatly
- Other channels growing
- Food retailers
- E-commerce
- M&S and C&A cling to the top spots
- Seven chains with over 1,000 stores
- C&A flexes its muscles
- Corporate activity
- And speculation
- Forecasts
Premier Insight
Report Scope and European Outlook
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- Report scope
- Currencies
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- Figure 1: Europe: Euro currencies: Entry rate into the Euro
- The clothing sector
- The European clothing sector outlook
- Company prospects
Background Data – UK
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- Population
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- Figure 2: UK: Population trends, 1998-2002
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- Figure 3: UK: Population, by age group and sex, 2002
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- Figure 4: UK: Population profile, 2002
- Figure 5: UK: Household numbers, 1991-2007 (f)
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- Figure 6: UK: Households, 2002
- Figure 7: UK: Regions and major cities, 2001
- Economy
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- Figure 8: UK: Gross domestic product, 1995-2002
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- Figure 9: UK: Consumer prices, 1995-2002
- Figure 10: UK: Consumer expenditure, 1995-2003
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- Figure 11: UK: Detailed breakdown of consumer expenditure, 1999-2003
Clothing Retailing in the United Kingdom
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- Clothing market value
- Channels of distribution
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- Figure 12: UK: Clothing market – channels of distribution, 2003
- Clothing specialists
- Department and variety stores
- Home shopping
- Grocers
- Sports goods retailers
- Corporate activity remains plentiful in 2003/04
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- Figure 13: UK: Clothing retail sector, corporate activity, January 2003-August 2004
- And speculation
- Some key trends and drivers
- Clothing specialists’ sector
- Sector value and trends
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- Figure 14: UK: Clothing specialists’ sales, 1999-2003
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- Figure 15: UK: Clothing specialists, relative performance, 1999-2003
- Outlet and enterprise data
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- Figure 16: UK: Clothing specialists – Number of enterprises and outlets, 1998-2002
- Figure 17: UK: clothing specialists – average number of outlets per enterprise, 1998-2002
UK Consumer Trends
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- Introduction
- Penetration of clothing purchasing
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- Figure 18: Penetration of clothing purchasing in Great Britain, 2002 and 2004
- Demographic characteristics of consumer typologies
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- Figure 19: Shopaholics, label seekers, stylish, well dressed and fashion-conscious, by demographic sub-group, Great Britain, 2004
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- Figure 20: Big spenders, individualists, practical and sporty, by demographic sub-group, Great Britain, 2004
- Agreement with clothing lifestyle statements by consumer typologies
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- Figure 21: Agreement with clothing lifestyle statements, by shopaholics, label seekers, stylish, well-dressed and Individualists, Great Britain, 2004
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- Figure 22: Agreement with clothing lifestyle statements, by practical, fashion conscious, sporty and big spenders, Great Britain, 2004
The Consumer
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- Key consumer findings
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- Figure 23: Outlets used for purchasing clothing in the last 12 months, May 2003 and June 2004
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- Figure 24: Leading outlets used for purchasing clothing in the last 12 months, June 2004
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- Figure 25: Penetration of clothing shopping, by men, women, May 2003 and June 2004
- Characteristics of clothing shoppers at leading stores
- Marks & Spencer, Bhs and Littlewoods
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- Figure 26: Purchases of clothing from Marks & Spencer, Bhs and Littlewoods in the last 12 months, by gender, age and socio-economic group, June 2004
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- Figure 27: Purchases of clothing from department stores in the last 12 months, by gender, age and socio-economic group, June 2004
- Supermarkets and value retailers
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- Figure 28: Purchases of clothing from supermarkets and value retailers in the last 12 months, by gender, age and socio-economic group, June 2004
- Leading fashion chains
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- Figure 29: Purchases of clothing from leading fashion chains in the last 12 months, by gender, age and socio-economic group, June 2004
- Other clothing shops and sources
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- Figure 30: Purchases of clothing from other clothing shops and other sources in the last 12 months, by gender, age and socio-economic group, June 2004
Consumer Attitudes and Typologies
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- What consumers would like to see provided
- Key consumer findings
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- Figure 31: What consumers would like to see provided in clothing shops, 2002-04
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- Figure 32: What consumers would like to see provided in clothing shops, by gender, June 2004
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- Figure 33: What consumers would like to see provided in clothing shops – range issues, by gender, age and socio-economic group, June 2004
- Fashion and style
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- Figure 34: What consumers would like to see provided in clothing shops – fashion and style issues, by gender, age and socio-economic group, June 2004
- Service issues
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- Figure 35: What consumers would like to see provided in clothing shops – service issues, by gender, age and socio-economic group, June 2004
- Facilities and store design
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- Figure 36: What consumers would like to see provided in clothing shops – facilities/store design issues, by gender, age and socio-economic group, June 2004
- What consumers would like to see provided by stores used
- Attitudes towards shopping for clothes and consumer behaviour
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- Figure 37: Attitudes towards shopping for clothes, by men and women, June 2004
- Key consumer findings
- Price versus quality
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- Figure 38: Attitudes towards shopping for clothing – price versus quality, by gender, age and socio-economic group, June 2004
- Supermarkets
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- Figure 39: Attitudes towards shopping for clothing – supermarket clothing, by gender, age and socio-economic group, June 2004
- Shopping on the Internet
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- Figure 40: Attitudes towards shopping for clothing – shopping using Internet, by gender, age and socio-economic group, June 2004
- Personal service and fashion
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- Figure 41: Attitudes towards shopping for clothing – personal service and fashion, by gender, age and socio-economic group, June 2004
- Spending patterns and frequency of shopping
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- Figure 42: Attitudes towards shopping for clothing – frequency of shopping for clothes, by gender, age and socio-economic group, June 2004
- Attitudes towards shopping for clothing by stores used
- Number of shops used for clothing purchases
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- Figure 43: Number of shops from which clothing purchased, by gender, age, socio-economic group, lifestage and Mintel’s Special Groups, June 2004
- Where they buy and how many stores they buy from
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- Figure 44: Stores used for purchasing clothing in the last 12 months, by number of shops from which clothing purchased, June 2004
- What consumers would like to see provided by how many shops clothing purchased from
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- Figure 45: What consumers would like to see provided by clothing shops, by number of shops from which clothing purchased, June 2004
- Identifying targets
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- Figure 46: Breakdown of clothing typologies, June 2004
- Practical Purchasers (30% of sample)
- Clothes Enthusiasts (25% of sample)
- Part Time High Spenders (25% of sample)
- Bargain Hunters (20% of sample)
- Typologies by demographic characteristics
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- Figure 47: Clothing consumer typologies, by age and socio-economic group, June 2004
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- Figure 48: Clothing consumer typologies, by lifestage and Mintel’s Special Groups, June 2004
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- Figure 49: Clothing consumer typologies, by region and ACORN categories, June 2004
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- Figure 50: Clothing consumer typologies, by media usage, commercial TV viewing and source of regular grocery shopping, June 2004
- Where they buy and what they want
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- Figure 51: Stores used for purchasing clothing in the last 12 months, by consumer typologies, June 2004
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- Figure 52: What consumers would like to see provided by clothing shops, by consumer typologies, June 2004
- Identifying targets
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- Figure 53: CHAID analysis of clothing shops, June 2004
UK Advertising Expenditure
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- Figure 54: Main media advertising expenditure by leading retailers of clothing, 1999-2003
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- Figure 55: Main media advertising by leading retailers of clothing, by media used, 2003
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Prospects and Forecasts
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- Figure 56: UK: Clothing specialists’ sales, 2003-08 (f)
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- Figure 57: UK: Clothing specialists: Relative Performance, 1999-2008 (f)
- Further expansion planned at the value end
- Scope for fast fashion and youth targeted operators too
- Renewed interest?
- Implications
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Leading Specialists
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- Double digit sales growth for many in 2003
- Overseas retailers up their interests
- Weaker performers
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- Figure 58: UK: Leading specialist clothing retailers, 2003
- Market shares
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- Figure 59: UK: Leading clothing specialists’ market shares, 2002 and 2003
Major Company Profiles
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- Arcadia Group
- Background
- Changing portfolio of brands
- Re-engineering the portfolio
- Baugur approach fails
- Philip Green gains control
- Rubicon buy-out
- Progress under Philip Green
- Financial data
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- Figure 60: Arcadia Group: Financial performance, 1998/99-2002/03
- Share of UK clothing retail sector
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- Figure 61: Arcadia: Share of total UK clothing retailers’ sales, 1998/99-2002/03
- Outlets
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- Figure 62: Arcadia Group: Outlet data, 1998-2003
- UK
- Europe
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- Figure 63: Arcadia Group: Continental European outlet data, July 2004
- Rest of the World
- Products
- E-commerce
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- Figure 64: Arcadia Group: Transactional Internet sites, July 2004
- SWOT
- Benetton
- Background
- History
- International expansion accelerates
- Megastore development
- Management changes
- 2004-07 corporate plan
- Ownership
- Financial data
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- Figure 65: Benetton: Financial performance, 1999-2003
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- Figure 66: Benetton: Consolidated sales by geographical area, 2000-03
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- Figure 67: Benetton: Consolidated sales by commercial activity, 2002 and 2003
- First quarter 2004
- 2004 outlook
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- Figure 68: Benetton: Group financial targets, 2003, 2004 and 2007
- Outlets
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- Figure 69: Benetton Group: Outlet numbers, 1999-2003
- Figure 70: Benetton: European store coverage, 2003
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- Figure 71: Benetton: Store numbers by major European country, August 2004
- Figure 72: Benetton Group: Evolution of directly owned stores, 2000-03
- Products
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- Figure 73: Benetton Group: Sales by brand, 1998 and 2003
- Advertising and marketing
- SWOT
- Bhs
- Background
- Financial data
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- Figure 74: Bhs Ltd: Financial performance, 1999/2000-2002/03
- Share of UK clothing retail sector
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- Figure 75: Bhs: Share of total UK clothing retailers’ sales, 1999/2000-2002/03
- Outlets
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- Figure 76: Bhs Limited, Outlet data, 2000-03
- International franchises
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- Figure 77: Bhs: International franchises, Number of outlets, May 2003 and July 2004
- Products
- Womenswear
- Menswear
- Childrenswear
- SWOT
- Esprit
- Background
- History
- Internationalisation
- Red Earth Group
- Bollag-Guggenheim acquisition
- Licensing
- Financial data
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- Figure 78: Esprit: Financial performance, 1999-2003
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- Figure 79: Esprit: Consolidated sales by channel and geographical region, 1998/99-2002/03
- Figure 80: Esprit: Consolidated sales by geographical area, 2001/02 and 2002/03
- Estimated European retail sales
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- Figure 81: Esprit: Estimated sales at retail prices by major European market, 2003
- Interim results 2003/04
- Outlets
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- Figure 82: Esprit Europe: Wholesale outlets data, 2002/03
- Figure 83: Esprit Europe: Retail outlets data, 2002/03
- Products
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- Figure 84: Esprit: Sales mix by product category, 1998/99-2002/03
- Figure 85: Esprit: Sales mix by product category, 2002/03
- SWOT
- Etam Développement
- Background
- History
- Organic and acquisitive international development
- Central buying abandoned and recovery programme instigated
- Financial data
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- Figure 86: Etam Developpement: Financial performance, 1999-2003
- 2003 results
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- Figure 87: Etam: Breakdown of sales by domestic/international markets, 1999-2003
- Figure 88: Etam: Development of operating profit by geographical area, 2001-03
- Disappointing 2004 interim sales
- Outlets
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- Figure 89: Etam: Outlet data, 1999-2003
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- Figure 90: Etam: Outlet numbers by country, 2002 and 2003
- Products
- Etam Prêt-a-Porter
- Etam lingerie
- 1.2.3
- Tammy
- SWOT
- Gap
- Background
- History
- Other fascias
- Internationalisation
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- Figure 91: Gap Inc: Overseas operations
- Downturn and restructuring
- Recovery picks up momentum
- Financial data
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- Figure 92: Gap Inc: Financial performance, 1999/00-2003/04
- First quarter results 2004/05
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- Figure 93: Gap Inc: Like-for-like sales change by division, first quarter 2003/04 and 2004/05
- Outlets
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- Figure 94: Gap Inc: Gap Outlet data, 2001/02-2003/04
- Non-European outlets
- Outlook
- Products
- E-commerce
- SWOT
- H&M Hennes & Mauritz
- Background
- History
- Ownership
- Expansion in Europe and beyond
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- Figure 95: H&M Hennes & Mauritz: International expansion record
- Plans to step up international expansion
- Marketing and the offer
- Concept stores
- Long standing home shopping arm
- Financial data
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- Figure 96: H&M Hennes & Mauritz: Financial performance, 1998/99-2002/03
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- Figure 97: H&M Hennes & Mauritz: % change in local currency sales by country, 2001/02-2002/03
- Figure 98: Hennes & Mauritz: Relative sales importance by country, 1999/2000 and 2002/03
- Interim results 2004/05
- Outlets
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- Figure 99: H&M Hennes & Mauritz: Outlet data, 1998/99-2002/03
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- Figure 100: Hennes & Mauritz: Sales versus outlet growth by country, 1999/2000-2002/03
- Concept stores
- Future expansion
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- Figure 101: H&M Hennes & Maurtiz: New store openings, December 2003-May 2004
- Products
- Sourcing and lead times
- Buying functions split
- Customer loyalty card
- Home shopping
- SWOT
- Grupo Inditex
- Background
- New formats
- International presence
- Innovative vertically-integrated model
- Financial data
- Full-year results
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- Figure 102: Grupo Inditex: Financial performance, 1999/2000-2003/04
- Latest data
- Performance by fascia
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- Figure 103: Grupo Inditex: Sales performance by fascia, 2001-04
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- Figure 104: Grupo Inditex: Operating profit performance by fascia, 2003-04
- Geographic breakdown
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- Figure 105: Grupo Inditex: Consolidated net sales by geographic region, 2001/02-2003/04
- Figure 106: Grupo Inditex: Domestic and international sales mix, 1999/2000-2003/04
- Sales by selected European markets
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- Figure 107: Grupo Inditex: Sales in selected European markets (e), 2003/04
- Market share – Spain
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- Figure 108: Inditex Spain: Domestic sales as % of clothing specialists sector, 1999/2000-2003/04
- Outlets
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- Figure 109: Grupo Inditex: Outlet and country numbers, 1999/2000-2003/04
- Figure 110: Grupo Inditex: Outlet data, 1999/2000-2003/04
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- Figure 111: Grupo Inditex: Outlet data by fascia, 2002-04
- Figure 112: Grupo inditex: Space by fascia, 2003/04
- Franchised presence
- European store data
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- Figure 113: Grupo Inditex: Outlet data by European market, January 2004
- Expansion strategy
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- Figure 114: Grupo Inditex: Forecast number of store openings, 2004/05
- Products
- Zara
- Pull&Bear
- Massimo Dutti
- Bershka
- Stradivarius
- Oysho
- Kiddy’s Class
- Zara Home
- Pricing
- E-commerce
- SWOT
- Marks & Spencer
- Background
- Key milestones
- Design talents brought on board
- Key points of Stuart Rose’s recovery strategy
- Financial data
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- Figure 115: Marks & Spencer: Financial performance, 1999/2000-2003/04
- UK trading performance
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- Figure 116: Marks & Spencer: UK retail sales by category, 2003 and 2004
- UK clothing market share
- International trading performance
- Outlets
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- Figure 117: Marks & Spencer: Space increase (decrease), year to 3 April, 2004 compared to previous year
- Figure 118: Marks & Spencer: Outlet data, 2000-04
- UK sales densities
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- Figure 119: Marks & Spencer: Sales area and sales densities, 1999/2000-2003/04
- International stores
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- Figure 120: Marks & Spencer: Numbers and space of franchised stores, 2002/03 and 2003/04
- Figure 121: Marks & Spencer: European franchised outlet data, July 2004
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- Figure 122: Marks & Spencer: Non-European franchised outlet data, July 2004
- Products
- Per Una
- Autograph
- Menswear
- Childrenswear
- E-commerce
- SWOT
- Mango
- Background
- History
- Philosophy
- Systems
- Franchising
- The future
- Financial data
- Five year performance
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- Figure 123: Mango: Financial performance, 1999-2003
- Latest full-year results
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- Figure 124: Mango: Domestic and international retail sales mix, 1999-2003
- Retail sales by selected European market
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- Figure 125: Mango: Retail sales in selected European markets (a), 2003
- Market share – Spain
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- Figure 126: Mango: Domestic sales as % of Spanish clothing specialists sector, 1999-2003
- Forecast
- Outlets
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- Figure 127: Mango: Outlet data, 1999-2003
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- Figure 128: mango: Outlet data by European market, July 2004
- Non-European activities
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- Figure 129: Mango: Non-European stores network, July 2004
- Products
- Media presence
- E-commerce
- SWOT
- Matalan
- Background
- Growing through acquisitions
- Key marketing initiatives
- Troubled by management instability
- Linked with ASDA and others
- Financial data
- Disappointing 2003/04
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- Figure 130: Matalan: Financial performance, 1999/2000-2003/04
- Signs of improvement?
- Market share
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- Figure 131: Matalan: Share of UK clothing specialists’ sales, 1999/2000-2003/04
- Outlets
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- Figure 132: Matalan: Outlet data, 2000-04
- Products
- E-commerce
- SWOT
- New Look
- Background
- History
- Outright control of NewMim achieved
- Pilot of menswear
- Return to private ownership
- Financial data
- Margins and like-for-likes down in France
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- Figure 133: New Look: Financial performance, 1999-2003
- 2003/04 H1 like-for-likes down
- Slow November leads to mid-season Sale
- Share of sales through UK clothing retailers
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- Figure 134: New Look: Domestic sales as % of UK clothing retailers’ sales, year to end March 1999-2003
- Outlets
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- Figure 135: New Look: Outlet data, 2000-04 (e)
- Mim
- Products
- E-commerce
- SWOT
- Next
- Background
- History
- One brand, three ways to shop
- Financial data
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- Figure 136: Next: Financial performance, 1999/2000-2003/04
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- Figure 137: Next: Share of UK clothing retailers’ sales, 1999/2000-2003/04
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- Figure 138: Next: Outlet data, 2001-04
- Figure 139: Next, store portfolio by size, 2002-04
- International operations
- Products
- E-commerce
- SWOT
- Vivarte
- Background
- History
- Clothing added to portfolio
- Internationalisation and reorganisation
- Poor results lead to management changes
- PAI Partners move in
- Financial data
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- Figure 140: Vivarte: Sales performance, 1998/89-2002/03
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- Figure 141: Vivarte: Operating profit and margin, 1998/99-2002/03
- Interim results 2003/04
- Outlets
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- Figure 142: Vivarte: Outlet data, 1999-2003
- Caroll
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- Figure 143: Caroll: store network, 2001/02 and 2002/03
- Kookaï
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- Figure 144: Kookaï: store network, 2001/02 and 2002/03
- Figure 145: Kookaï: European outlet network, June 2003
- La Halle!
- Parti Prix
- Creeks/Liberto
- Products
- Caroll
- Kookaï
- La Halle!
- Parti Prix
- Creeks/Liberto
- E-commerce
- SWOT
Mini Company Profiles
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- Adams
- Background
- Financial data
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- Figure 146: Adams: Financial performance, 2000/02
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- Figure 147: Adams: Sales by geographic region, 2000-02
- Outlets
- Alexon Group
- Background
- Financial data
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- Figure 148: Alexon Group: Financial performance, 2001-04
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- Figure 149: Alexon Group: sales by segment, 2003-04
- Figure 150: Alexon: sales by geographic region, 2002/03 and 2003/04
- Outlets
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- Figure 151: Alexon Group: Outlet numbers, 2001-04
- Figure 152: Alexon Group outlets, January 2003 and January 2004
- Products
- Dunnes Stores
- Background
- Financial data
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- Figure 153: Dunnes Stores: Estimated financial performance, 1998/99-2002/03
- Outlets
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- Figure 154: Dunnes stores: Outlet data, estimated, 1998/99-2002/03
- Littlewoods Stores
- Background
- Financial data
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- Figure 155: Littlewoods High Street: Sales performance, 2000-03 (e)
- Outlets
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- Figure 156: Littlewoods Stores: Outlet data, 2000-03
- Products
- Monsoon
- Background
- Financial data
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- Figure 157: Monsoon plc: financial performance, 2001-04
- Outlets
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- Figure 158: Monsoon: Outlet numbers, 2001-04 (a)
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- Figure 159: Monsoon/Accessorize: International outlet numbers, July 2004
- Products
- Mothercare
- Background
- Financial data
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- Figure 160: Mothercare: Financial performance, 2001-04
- Outlets
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- Figure 161: Mothercare Plc: Outlet numbers, 2001-04
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- Figure 162: Mothercare number of European stores by country, March 2003 and March 2004
- Products
- Peacock Group
- Background
- Financial data
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- Figure 163: The Peacock Group Plc: Financial performance, 2001-04
- Outlets
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- Figure 164: Peacock Group: Outlet numbers, 2001-04
- Products
- Primark/Penneys
- Background
- Financial data
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- Figure 165: Primark Stores Ltd: UK Financial performance, 2000-03
- Outlets
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- Figure 166: Primark Stores Ltd: Outlet numbers, 2000-03
- Products
- River Island
- Background
- Financial data
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- Figure 167: River Island Financial performance, 2000-02
- Outlets
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- Figure 168: River Island: Outlet numbers, 2000-02
- Products
- TK Maxx
- Background
- Financial data
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- Figure 169: TK Maxx: Financial performance, 2000/01-2003/04
- Outlets
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- Figure 170: TK Maxx: Outlet data, 2001-04
- Products
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