Table of Contents
Executive Summary
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- Impact of COVID-19 on footwear
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- Figure 1: Short, medium and long-term impact of COVID-19 on footwear, 4 March 2021
- The market
- Footwear market declined by 14% in 2020
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- Figure 2: Market size and forecast for footwear, 2015-25 (prepared on 31 March 2021)
- Specialists have taken a big hit in 2020
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- Figure 3: Estimated distribution of spending on footwear, by type of retailer, 2017-20
- Footfall across stores declined due to store closures
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- Figure 4: Year-on-year footfall change, by location, 2015-21
- Companies and brands
- Sports specialists gain share
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- Figure 5: Estimated market shares for top 10 retailers of footwear, by value, 2018-20
- Opportunities in direct mail advertising
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- Figure 6: Total above-the-line, online display and direct mail advertising expenditure on footwear, by media type, 2019 and 2020
- Clarks is the most trustworthy brand while the rest fail to differentiate themselves
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- Figure 7: Attitudes towards and usage of selected brands, March 2021
- The consumer
- COVID-19 has caused many to be uncomfortable trying footwear on in-store
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- Figure 8: How comfortable people are doing the following activities during COVID-19, 10-19 November 2020
- Women’s seasonal and formal styles suffer
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- Figure 9: Styles of women’s footwear purchased, 2019-21
- Men turn to comfortable styles
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- Figure 10: Styles of men’s footwear purchased, 2019-21
- Disruption in schooling has contributed to declines in children’s footwear
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- Figure 11: Styles of children’s footwear purchased, 2019-21
- More shopped for footwear online than in-store
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- Figure 12: Channels used for footwear purchasing, May 2020 and February 2021
- Over two in five shoppers value familiarity
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- Figure 13: Factors prioritised when shopping for footwear, February 2021
- Pain points for shopping footwear online need to be lessened
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- Figure 14: Behaviours towards shopping for footwear online, February 2021
- Exclusive discounts would draw shoppers to one online retailer over another
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- Figure 15: Factors that help people choose a retailer when buying footwear online, February 2021
Issues and Insights
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- Life beyond the pandemic: what’s next for online footwear shopping?
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- Figure 16: Example of the new Instagram Shop option introduced at the start of the pandemic, 2020
- What does the future hold for formal footwear?
The Market – Key Takeaways
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- COVID-19 has led to 14% decline in footwear
- Sports specialists have gained share
- Footwear retailers must adapt to the move online
Market Size and Forecast
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- Short, medium and long-term impact on the footwear industry
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- Figure 17: Short, medium and long-term impact of COVID-19 on footwear, 4 March 2021
- COVID-19 has caused a 14% decline in footwear
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- Figure 18: Market size and forecast for footwear, 2015-25 (prepared on 31 March 2021)
- Figure 19: Market size for footwear, 2015-20
- Store closures have heavily impacted the market
- Share of the market by women’s, men’s and children’s footwear
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- Figure 20: UK footwear sales, segmented by market value and percentage share, 2015-20
- Figure 21: UK footwear sales, segmented by women’s, men’s and children’s, % share, 2018-20
- Market drivers and assumptions
- Learnings from the last recession
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- Figure 22: Value sales of footwear, 2007-12
- Figure 23: Consumer spending on footwear, 2007-12
- Forecast methodology
Channels to Market
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- Specialists have taken a big hit in 2020
- Sports retailers gain share
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- Figure 24: Estimated distribution of spending on footwear, by type of retailer, 2017-20
- Department store closures negatively affect specialist concessions
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- Figure 25: Estimated distribution of spending on footwear, by type of retailer, 2017-20
- Online sales have dominated
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- Figure 26: Estimated online sales of footwear, 2017-20
- Online distribution
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- Figure 27: Estimated distribution of online sales, 2017-20
Market Drivers
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- Number of people buying fashion items has declined
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- Figure 28: Trends in items respondents have purchased for themselves, December 2019 and December 2020
- Footwear experiences deflation
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- Figure 29: Annual changes in CPIH for footwear (including repairs), 2008-20
- Figure 30: Monthly year-on-year change in CPIH for footwear market, by category, 2020-21
- Footfall across stores declined due to store closures
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- Figure 31: Year-on-year footfall change, by location, 2015-21
- Reliance on online retail experiences sharp jump
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- Figure 32: Internet sales as a percentage of total retail sales, 2015-20
- Figure 33: Internet sales as a percentage of total retail sales, monthly, 2019-21
- Brexit deal causes confusion and delays
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- Figure 34: Economic outlook towards Brexit, February 2021
- Trainers are top purchased sportswear item…
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- Figure 35: Sportswear and outdoorwear categories purchased, 2018 and 2020
- …as more people started walking for leisure
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- Figure 36: Active adults taking part in sports or physical activity at least twice over a 28-day period, millions of people, mid-March-mid-May 2019 and 2020
Companies and Brands – Key Takeaways
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- Many struggling specialists have entered into CVAs
- Digital footwear innovations stand out
- Opportunities in direct mail advertising
Leading Footwear Retailers
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- Leading footwear retailers continue to see sales declines
- Clarks taken over by LionRock Capital
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- Figure 37: Leading footwear specialists: UK revenues, 2016-20
- Kurt Geiger puts expansion plans on hold
- Major retailers turn to CVAs or enter administration
- Dune sticks to formalwear and applies for CVA
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- Figure 38: Leading footwear specialists: UK outlet numbers, 2016-20
- LK Bennett extends administration and enters CVA
- Hotter enters CVA
- Soletrader restructures
- Aldo UK arm enters administration
- Sales per outlet
- Shoe Zone shakes up board and shuts stores
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- Figure 39: Leading footwear specialists: estimated UK sales per outlet, 2016-20
- Operating profit
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- Figure 40: Leading footwear specialists: UK operating profits, 2016-20
Market Share
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- Non-specialists gain share
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- Figure 41: Estimated market shares for top 10 retailers of footwear, by value, 2018-20
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- Figure 42: Estimated market shares for top 10 footwear retailers, by value, 2016-20
Launch Activity and Innovation
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- Fruit and veg footwear
- Tommy Hilfiger produces apple skin footwear
- Reebok releases shoes with vegetable soles
- Zèta Shoes launches footwear made of grape leather
- Shoes made from dog hair and mushrooms
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- Figure 43: Emilie Burfeind’s ‘Sneature’ combining trainers with nature, 2021
- Closing the loop
- Melissa closes the loop with upcycled shoes
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- Figure 44: Upcycled Melissa x Rombaut collaboration, 2021
- Biodegradable trainers that are home-compostable
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- Figure 45: The Voronoi runner fully biodegradable trainer, 2020
- Salomon designs 100% recyclable shoes
- Bottega Veneta unveils 100% biodegradable clog
- Footwear collaborations
- Cole Haan teams up with messaging platform Slack
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- Figure 46: Slack x Cole Haan trainers, 2020
- Allbirds collaborates with streetwear artist
- Birkenstock teams up with CSM graduates
- Veja and Rick Owens team up for sustainable trainers
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- Figure 47: Veja and Rick Owens’ latest collaboration, 2020
- Personalisation
- Draw your own Jimmy Choo’s
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- Figure 48: Examples of shoe sketches released by Jimmy Choo, 2020
- Luxury footwear brand Malone Souliers launches shoe design service
- Nike allows users to customise trainers via smartphone
- FAMZON offers customers customisable heels
- Experiential stores
- Foot Locker opens Singapore store with basketball court
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- Figure 49: Foot Locker’s new Singapore store, 2020
- Adidas’ new Soho store focuses on local creativity
- Virtual footwear
- Farfetch launches tool to try footwear on virtually
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- Figure 50: Trying on AZ Factory trainers using the Farfetch virtual try-on service, 2021
- JD partners with Sony to enable customers to measure feet online
- Buffalo London releases shoes that can only be worn virtually
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- Figure 51: Buffalo London x The Fabricant Classic BurningFor digital shoe, 2021
- Gucci releases digital trainers
- Efforts towards inclusivity
- Zappos trials single-shoe policy
- Nike launches hands-free shoes
Advertising and Marketing Activity
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- Total sector advertising spend plunges 26% year-on-year in 2020
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- Figure 52: Total above-the-line, online display and direct mail advertising expenditure on footwear, 2017-20
- Stay-at-home rules drive down advertising spend on shoes and boots
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- Figure 53: Total above-the-line, online display and direct mail advertising expenditure on footwear, by product category, 2017-20
- Digital accounts for the biggest share of sector advertising spend
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- Figure 54: Total above-the-line, online display and direct mail advertising expenditure on footwear, by media type, 2019 and 2020
- adidas is the single biggest advertising spender
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- Figure 55: Total recorded above-the-line, online display and direct mail total advertising expenditure on footwear, by leading advertisers, 2017-20
- Sports footwear brands largely eschew TV advertising
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- Figure 56: Leading advertisers’ total recorded above-the-line, online display and direct mail total advertising expenditure on footwear, by media type, 2020
- Campaign highlights
- Skechers launches its biggest UK brand campaign to date
- JD Sports recruits all-star line-up for its Christmas campaign
- Dune focuses on its London roots with the help of X-Files star
- Clarks honours its iconic Desert Boot and Black creatives in separate campaigns
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- Figure 57: Clarks Originals x FANGIRL In Her Shoes campaign, 2021
- Hotter’s bold TV relaunch campaign
- Nielsen Ad Intel coverage
Brand Research
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- Brand map
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- Figure 58: Attitudes towards and usage of selected brands, March 2021
- Key brand metrics
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- Figure 59: Key metrics for selected brands, March 2021
- Brand attitudes: Clarks trustworthy and great customer service
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- Figure 60: Attitudes, by brand, March 2021
- Brand personality: Schuh and Footasylum are fun brands
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- Figure 61: Brand personality – Macro image, March 2021
- Brand personality: Russell & Bromley expensive
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- Figure 62: Brand personality – Micro image, March 2021
- Brand analysis
- Clarks trustworthy, reliable and highly recommended by those who have used the brand
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- Figure 63: User profile of Clarks, March 2021
- Footasylum fun, stylish and an excellent customer experience
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- Figure 64: User profile of Footasylum, March 2021
- Schuh fun and inexpensive
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- Figure 65: User profile of Schuh, March 2021
- Office considered somewhat untrustworthy and not a brand not worth paying more for
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- Figure 66: User profile of Office, March 2021
- Russell & Bromley exclusive, aspirational and expensive
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- Figure 67: User profile of Russell & Bromley, March 2021
- Hotter Shoes functional, but somewhat innovative
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- Figure 68: User profile of Hotter Shoes, March 2021
- Aldo inexpensive, but untrustworthy
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- Figure 69: User profile of Aldo, March 2021
- Reading word clouds
The Consumer – Key Takeaways
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- COVID-19 has presented issues for seasonal footwear
- The rise in online shopping has made Amazon more of a threat
- Shoppers now wait for sales before purchasing
Impact of COVID-19 on Consumer Behaviour
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- People are cutting back on non-essential spend…
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- Figure 70: Changes in habits since the start of COVID-19, by gender, 4-12 March 2021
- …as savings have declined
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- Figure 71: Changes in levels of savings since the start of COVID-19, by gender, 4-12 March 2021
- Fewer people are buying fashion items
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- Figure 72: Changes in spending habits since the start of COVID-19, 4-12 March 2021
- Online shopping has increased
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- Figure 73: People shopping more online since COVID-19, 16 April-12 March 2021
- People have been reluctant to try product on in-store
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- Figure 74: How comfortable people are doing the following activities during COVID-19, 10-19 November 2020
- Two in five do not expect to be taking a holiday in 2021
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- Figure 75: Holiday booking intentions for 2021, 4-12 March 2021
Types of Footwear Bought
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- Footwear purchasing continues to decline
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- Figure 76: Number of people who purchased footwear, across categories, 2019-21
- Women’s seasonal and formal styles suffer
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- Figure 77: Styles of women’s footwear purchased, 2019-21
- Men turn to comfortable styles
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- Figure 78: Styles of men’s footwear purchased, 2019-21
- Trends towards casual office attire will damage the formal market
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- Figure 79: Men’s formal footwear purchased, by employment status, 2019-21
- People increasingly likely to buy just one style of footwear
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- Figure 80: Repertoire of styles purchased, by gender, 2019-21
Types of Children’s Footwear Bought
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- Disruption in schooling has contributed to declines
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- Figure 81: Styles of children’s footwear purchased, 2019-21
- Children’s footwear purchasing spread fairly equally across genders
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- Figure 82: Styles of children’s footwear purchased, by gender of purchaser, February 2021
- Those with young children likely to purchase several styles
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- Figure 83: Repertoire of children’s footwear purchased, by age of children in household, February 2021
Where Footwear Is Bought
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- More shopped for footwear online than in-store
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- Figure 84: Channels used for footwear purchasing, May 2020 and February 2021
- Fewer young people are shopping via laptops
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- Figure 85: Online channels used for footwear purchasing, by age, February 2021
- Online-only retailers show growth in customers
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- Figure 86: Types of retailer footwear was purchased from, 2019-21
- Younger shoppers tend to prefer clothing or sports specialists
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- Figure 87: Types of retailer footwear was purchased from, by age, February 2021
- Amazon is now the most popular footwear retailer…
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- Figure 88: Retailers footwear has been purchased from, 2019-21
- …and alongside ASOS picked up the most shoppers since 2020
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- Figure 89: Percentage point change in retailers used for purchasing footwear between 2020 and 2021
- Younger shoppers are less loyal to one retailer
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- Figure 90: Repertoire of retailers used for footwear, by age, February 2021
Priorities for Footwear Shoppers
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- Over two in five shoppers value familiarity…
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- Figure 91: Factors prioritised when shopping for footwear, February 2021
- …with older shoppers particularly susceptible
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- Figure 92: Factors prioritised when shopping for footwear, by age, February 2021
Behaviours towards Footwear
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- Pain points for shopping footwear online can be lessened
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- Figure 93: Behaviours towards shopping for footwear online, February 2021
- Shoppers now wait for sales before making purchases
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- Figure 94: Behaviours towards discounted footwear, February 2021
- While many put off buying footwear, others invested in practical pieces
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- Figure 95: Behaviours towards footwear during COVID-19, February 2021
CHAID Analysis
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- Parents and those buying shoes from clothing stores want sizing advice
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- Figure 96: Footwear Retailing – CHAID – Tree output, February 2021
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- Figure 97: Footwear Retailing – CHAID – Table output, February 2021
Important Factors when Choosing an Online Retailer
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- Exclusive discounts pique shoppers’ interests
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- Figure 98: Factors that help people choose a retailer when buying footwear online, February 2021
- One in five of those aged 16-24 want to try footwear on virtually
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- Figure 99: Factors that help people choose a retailer when buying footwear online, by age, February 2021
- Young parents more likely to rely on discounts and pay-later schemes
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- Figure 100: Prioritising discounts and the ability to use pay-later schemes when shopping online, by age of children in household, February 2021
Appendix – Data Sources, Abbreviations and Supporting Information
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- Abbreviations
- Consumer research methodology
Appendix – Market Size and Forecast
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- Forecast methodology
- Footwear forecast
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- Figure 101: Market size and forecast for footwear, 2015-25
- Figure 102: Forecast consumer spending on footwear, 2020-25
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