Table of Contents
Executive Summary
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- Short, medium and long-term impact of COVID-19 on footwear retailing
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- Figure 1: Short, medium and long-term impact of COVID-19 on footwear, July 2020
- The market
- Footwear was an erratic sector even prior to COVID-19
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- Figure 2: UK footwear sector size and forecast, 2015-25
- Footwear and clothing specialists lose share
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- Figure 3: Estimated distribution of spending on footwear, by type of retailer, 2016-19
- Unseasonable weather continued to disrupt sales
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- Figure 4: Year-on-year difference of UK monthly mean temperature, 2019-20
- Footwear continues to experience deflation
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- Figure 5: Annual changes in CPIH for footwear (including repairs), 2008-19
- Companies and brands
- JD Sports remains the market leader
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- Figure 6: Estimated market shares for top 10 retailers of footwear, by value, 2017-19
- Clarks is the most trusted retailer, Dr. Martens is the most innovative
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- Figure 7: Attitudes towards and usage of selected brands, June 2020
- The consumer
- Shopping local has become a higher priority
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- Figure 8: Changing habits since the outbreak of COVID-19, 16-22 July 2020
- Women are worried about their spending power
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- Figure 9: Impact COVID-19 will have in the UK, by gender, 18th June - 24th June 2020
- Trainers remain the most popular option
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- Figure 10: Styles of women’s footwear purchased, Feb 2019 and May 2020
- Men’s footwear suffers biggest decline in number of shoppers
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- Figure 11: Styles of men’s footwear purchased, Feb 2019 and May 2020
- Trainers continue to be the most popular choice for children
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- Figure 12: Styles of children’s footwear purchased, Feb 2019 and May 2020
- Clothing stores more popular than specialists
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- Figure 13: Types of retailer footwear was purchased from, Feb 2019 and May 2020
- There is a need for more trend-led sustainable options
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- Figure 14: Footwear shopper behaviour, May 2020
- Consumers have become accustomed to discounting
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- Figure 15: Consumer journey for footwear purchasing, May 2020
- Price, quality and comfort are most important when choosing children’s styles
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- Figure 16: Factors prioritised when choosing children’s footwear, May 2020
- Shoppers value trusted retailers
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- Figure 17: Attitudes towards shopping for children’s footwear, May 2020
- What we think
The Impact of COVID-19 on Footwear Retailing
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- The Market
- COVID-19 has caused big declines in the footwear sector
- Store closures hamper market recovery
- COVID-19 has impacted the supply chain
- Children’s footwear experiences smaller declines
- Retail parks predicted to outperform other destinations as shops reopen
- Interest in sports has endured
- Retailers concentrate on online
- People are still nervous to try on items in-store
- Children’s footwear adapts to an appointment model
- COVID-19 has led to new ways of shopping online
- Home measuring for children’s footwear
- Many say their financial situation has worsened
- Companies and Brands
- Clarks continues with turnaround strategy
- A wave of administrations and store closures
- Amazon attracts new brands since COVID-19
- Social media used to increase brand awareness
- There are opportunities in livestreaming
- Retailers and brands are upping their charitable efforts
- Online shopping becomes a must due to COVID-19
- Over a third of shoppers still expect to spend less on fashion items
- Fewer people have been purchasing footwear
- Discounting likely to impact the market
Issues and Insights
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- Further opportunities emerge online due to COVID-19
- The facts
- The implications
- Social media and apps utilised to raise brand awareness
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- Figure 18: Simona Halep challenges users of Nike’s Training Club app to do a diagonal shuffle from her Instagram account, 2020
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- Figure 19: Mollie Tuggle’s Dr. Martens colouring book, 2020
- More brands turn to livestreaming
- Charitable work and giving back have presented opportunities
- The facts
- The implications
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- Figure 20: Kurt Geiger NHS products, 2020
- Opportunities in children’s footwear
- The facts
- The implications
The Market – What You Need to Know
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- COVID-19 has caused big declines in the footwear sector
- Store closures hamper market recovery
- Children’s footwear experiences smaller declines
- Footwear and clothing specialists lose share
- Unseasonable weather continues to disrupt sales
- Footwear continues to experience deflation
Market Size and Forecast
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- Short, medium and long-term impact on the footwear industry
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- Figure 21: Short, Medium and long-term impact of COVID-19 on footwear, July 2020
- Lockdown
- Re-emergence
- Recovery
- COVID-19 has caused big declines in the footwear sector
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- Figure 22: UK footwear sector size and forecast, 2015-25
- Footwear forecast
- Footwear is less suited to online retailing
- Store closures
- Impact on the supply chain
- Sports styles expected to do well
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- Figure 23: UK footwear sales, at current prices, 2015-25
- Learnings from the last recession
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- Figure 24: UK footwear sales, at current prices, 2007-13
- Share of the market by women, men and children’s footwear
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- Figure 25: UK footwear sales, segmented by market value and percentage share, 2015-20
- Figure 26: UK footwear sales, segmented by women’s, men’s and children’s, % share, 2017-20
Channels to Market
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- Footwear and clothing specialists lose share
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- Figure 27: Estimated distribution of spending on footwear, by type of retailer, 2016-19
- Specialist chains struggle during COVID-19 lockdown
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- Figure 28: Estimated distribution of spending on footwear, by type of retailer, 2016-19
Market Drivers
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- COVID-19 causes stores to shut
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- Figure 29: Year-on-year footfall change, by location, 2015-20
- Reliance on online retail increases
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- Figure 30: Internet sales as a percentage of total retail sales, 2007-19
- Interest in sports has endured
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- Figure 31: People’s priorities around exercise since COVID-19, 16th April -14th May 2020
- Unseasonable weather continues to disrupt sales
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- Figure 32: Year-on-year difference of UK monthly mean temperature, 2019-20
- Number of school-age children set to decline
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- Figure 33: Projected year-on-year percentage population change, based on 2018 projections, by age at last birthday, 2015-24
- Figure 34: Projected (2018-based projections) UK population at mid-years, by age at last birthday, 2015-24
- Many say their financial situation has worsened…
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- Figure 35: Change to people’s finances in the UK since COVID-19, 16 – 22 July 2020
- …leading to a decrease in discretionary spend
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- Figure 36: Trends in activities people are considering over the next three months, May 2019 and May 2020
- Footwear continues to experience deflation
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- Figure 37: Annual changes in CPIH for footwear (including repairs), 2008-19
- Clothing, footwear and underwear experience steepest declines
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- Figure 38: Trends in fashion purchases over a three month period, June 2019 and June 2020
Companies and Brands – What You Need to Know
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- Clarks continues with turnaround strategy
- Aldo enters administration and Hotter applies for a CVA
- JD Sports remains the market leader
- Online sales of footwear continue to increase
- Total advertising expenditure down year-on-year in 2019
Leading Footwear Retailers
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- Leading footwear retailers record declines
- Clarks accelerates turnaround strategy
- Shoe Zone expansion and digital investment
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- Figure 39: Leading footwear specialists: UK revenues, 2015-19
- Aldo files for bankruptcy protection amid COVID-19 pandemic
- Schuh rolls out Gen Z shopper-inspired designs and exits Germany
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- Figure 40: Schuh’s new branding, 2020
- Footwear chains reduce store numbers
- Hotter enters into a CVA
- LK Bennett shuts stores
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- Figure 41: Leading footwear specialists: UK outlet numbers, 2015-19
- Deichmann-Shoes UK store expansion
- Office mulls store closures after steep fall in profits
- Sales per outlet
- Foot Locker’s immersive Power Store concept helps drive footfall
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- Figure 42: Leading footwear specialists: estimated UK sales per outlet, 2015-19
- Operating profit
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- Figure 43: Leading footwear specialists: UK operating profits, 2015-19
- Footasylum swings to a pre-tax loss on the back of low footfall
- Department store concessions dent Dune sales and profits
- Product diversification and ecommerce drive profits at Kurt Geiger
Leading Non-Specialists
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- JD Sports fashion revenue surges on back of athleisure trend
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- Figure 44: Leading non-specialist retailers: estimated footwear sales (excluding VAT), 2015-19
- Sports Direct is a potential bidder for footwear specialist Office
- Marks & Spencer and New Look jump on vegan-friendly bandwagon
- Budget-priced designer shoe look-a-likes help drive Primark sales
- Big name footwear brands quit Amazon
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- Figure 45: Leading non-specialist retailers: positioning, offer and brands stocked, 2020
Market Share
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- Sports fashion retailers are market leaders
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- Figure 46: Estimated market shares for top 10 retailers of footwear, by value, 2017-19
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- Figure 47: Estimated market shares for top 20 footwear retailers, by value, 2017-19
Online
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- Online sales of footwear continue to grow
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- Figure 48: Estimated online sales of footwear, 2015-19
- COVID-19 has led to new ways of shopping online
- Artificial intelligence used to measure feet
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- Figure 49: Nike Fit in use, 2019
- Home measuring for children’s footwear
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- Figure 50: John Lewis’ guide for measuring children’s footwear, 2020
- Figure 51: Start-Rite children’s foot measuring gauge, 2020
- Distribution
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- Figure 52: Estimated distribution of online sales, 2015-19
- Big brands ditch Amazon
Launch Activity and Innovation
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- Re-imagining the in-store experience
- adidas’ most digital store to date
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- Figure 53: Inside the adidas LDN store, 2019
- Timberland’s eco-focused shop concept
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- Figure 54: Timberland’s new purpose-led flagship store, 2019
- Vans new boutique and flagship London stores
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- Figure 55: Vans store boutique in Covent Garden, 2019
- Steve Madden opens its first UK flagship store
- Made-to-order
- Shoenvious launches in the UK
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- Figure 56: Customisable shoes by Shoenvious, 2019
- New Balance teams up with Unmade
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- Figure 57: New Balance x Unmade customisable trainers, 2019
- Hotter introduces bespoke fitted shoes
- Footwear brands explore new market opportunities
- Roger Vivier launches jewellery collection
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- Figure 58: Roger Vivier branches out into jewellery, 2019
- Jimmy Choo debuts cosmetics range
- Bridging the gap between online and in-store footwear shopping
- Conversational commerce gives online footwear shoppers more confidence
- Sneakrs app offers users the chance to shop for the latest releases
- Eco-friendly footwear
- Asics launches recycled footwear
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- Figure 59: Asics Edo Era Tribute Pack sustainable footwear, 2020
- Allbirds releases high performance shoes
- Aldo showcases its first sustainable collection
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- Figure 60: Aldo’s new RPPL sustainable range, 2019
- Veja opens standalone store in Paris
- Reformation creates sustainable ‘dad sneakers’ with New Balance
- Vegan footwear gaining traction
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- Figure 61: Reebok’s plant-based Forever Floatride Grow running shoe, 2019
- New footwear inspired by gardening and medical professionals
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- Figure 62: Adidas Gardening Club range campaign, featuring Alan Titchmarsh, 2019
- Comfort and style
- Shoes in support of charity
- Limited editions, collaborations and out-of-the-box partnerships
- Nike teams up with Ben & Jerry’s
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- Figure 63: Nike SB ‘Dunk Low Pro Ben & Jerry’s’ style, 2020
- Skechers collaborates with Goodyear
- Dr. Martens launches second Sex Pistols collection
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- Figure 64: Dr. Martens ‘The Filth and the Fury’ boot, 2020
- Crocs partners with KFC
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- Figure 65: Crocs Finger Lickin’ Good shoes, 2020
- Cartoon collaborations
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- Figure 66: Disney x ALDO: Lunar New Year Collection, 2019
- Clarks ramps up number of collaborations
Advertising and Marketing Activity
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- Total advertising expenditure down 19% year-on-year in 2019
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- Figure 67: Total above-the-line online display and direct mail advertising expenditure on footwear, 2016-19
- Skechers is the sector’s biggest advertising spender
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- Figure 68: Total recorded above-the-line, online display and direct mail total advertising expenditure on footwear, by leading advertisers, 2016 - 2019
- Campaign highlights
- TV celebrity fronts adidas gardening-themed footwear collection campaign
- Clarks’ autumn/winter 2019 campaign focuses on ‘comfort in every situation’
- Hotter Shoes showcase SS19 collection
- Converse celebrates iconic Chuck Taylor sneakers
- 30% of total advertising expenditure channelled through digital
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- Figure 69: Total above-the-line online display and direct mail advertising expenditure on footwear, by media type, 2019
- Leading advertisers’ spend by media type
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- Figure 70: Leading advertisers’ total recorded above-the-line, online display and direct mail total advertising expenditure on footwear, by media type, 2019
- Nielsen Ad Intel coverage
Brand Research
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- Brand map
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- Figure 71: Attitudes towards and usage of selected brands, June 2020
- Key brand metrics
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- Figure 72: Key metrics for selected brands, June 2020
- Brand attitudes: Clarks has great customer service and Shoezone offers good value
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- Figure 73: Attitudes, by brand, June 2020
- Brand personality: Dr. Martens and Skechers are fun brands
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- Figure 74: Brand personality – macro image, June 2020
- Brand personality: Dune and Kurt Geiger perceived as aspirational but also overrated
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- Figure 75: Brand personality – micro image, June 2020
- Brand analysis
- Clarks trustworthy and highly recommended by those who have used the brand
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- Figure 76: User profile of Clarks, June 2020
- Skechers a fun and somewhat unique, innovative brand
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- Figure 77: User profile of Skechers, June 2020
- Dr. Martens cutting edge and stylish
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- Figure 78: User profile of Dr. Martens, June 2020
- Kurt Geiger exclusive and aspirational
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- Figure 79: User profile of Kurt Geiger, June 2020
- Dune suffers from low brand awareness
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- Figure 80: User profile of Dune, June 2020
- Shoe Zone basic and boring, but good value
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- Figure 81: User profile of Shoe Zone, June 2020
The Consumer – What You Need to Know
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- Online shopping becomes a must due to COVID-19
- Fewer people have been purchasing footwear
- Clothing stores more popular than specialists
- Young shoppers want buy now, pay later options
- Consumers have become accustomed to discounting
Shifts in Consumer Behaviour since COVID-19
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- Appetite for online shopping has increased
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- Figure 82: Changing habits since the outbreak of COVID-19, 16- 22 July 2020
- Over a third of shoppers still expect to spend less on fashion items
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- Figure 83: Expected spending patterns due to COVID-19, 16 – 22 July 2020
- Shopping local has become a higher priority
- Many feel uncomfortable trying footwear on in-store
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- Figure 84: How comfortable people think they will be doing everyday activities, 16-22 July 2020
- Parents with young children cut back on non-essential spending
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- Figure 85: People who will be cutting back on non-essential spending since COVID-19, by children in household, 18 - 24 June 2020
- Women are more worried about the financial implications of COVID-19
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- Figure 86: Impact COVID-19 will have in the UK, by gender, 18 – 24 June 2020
Types of Footwear Bought
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- COVID-19 leads to fewer footwear sales
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- Figure 87: Number of people who purchased footwear, across categories, Feb 2019 and May 2020
- Comfortable styles prove most popular among women…
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- Figure 88: Styles of women’s footwear purchased, Feb 2019 and May 2020
- …particularly among younger age groups
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- Figure 89: Women’s trainers and slides purchased, by age group, May 2020
- Fewer people have bought men’s trainers…
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- Figure 90: Styles of men’s footwear purchased, Feb 2019 and May 2020
- …but the style continues to be a popular gifting option
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- Figure 91: Trainers purchased, by gender of purchaser, May 2020
- Men buy fewer styles than women
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- Figure 92: Repertoire of styles purchased, by gender, May 2020
Types of Children’s Footwear Bought
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- Trainers continue to be the most popular choice
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- Figure 93: Styles of children’s footwear purchased, Feb 2019 and May 2020
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- Figure 94: Nike Adventure Club subscription, 2019
- Children’s footwear less prevalent in older age groups
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- Figure 95: Repertoire of children’s footwear purchased, by age of children in household, May 2020
Where Footwear is Bought
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- Increasing numbers shopped for footwear online
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- Figure 96: Channels used for footwear purchasing, May 2020
- Younger people shop footwear online via smartphones
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- Figure 97: Channels used for footwear purchasing, by age group, May 2020
- Clothing stores overtake specialists
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- Figure 98: Types of retailer footwear was purchased from, Feb 2019 and May 2020
- Sports Direct remains the most popular footwear retailer
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- Figure 99: Retailers footwear has been purchased from, Feb 2019 and May 2020
- Women are far more likely to shop around
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- Figure 100: Repertoire of retailers used for footwear, by gender, May 2020
Behaviour towards Footwear
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- More trend-led sustainable options are required
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- Figure 101: Footwear shopper behaviour, May 2020
- A third think vegan footwear is always sustainable
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- Figure 102: adidas vegan Samba shoe, 2020
- Younger shoppers are drawn towards credit options
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- Figure 103: Footwear shoppers who selected yes to behaviours around credit, May 2020
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- Figure 104: Klarna available in-store with Schuh, 2019
Deciding what Footwear to Buy
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- Consumers are accustomed to discounting
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- Figure 105: Consumer journey for footwear purchasing, May 2020
- Stores remain important for style inspiration
- Female shoppers research styles but men research quality
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- Figure 106: Consumer journey for footwear purchasing, by gender, May 2020
- Younger shoppers read online reviews
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- Figure 107: Consumers who used online reviews when shopping for footwear, by age group, May 2020
Purchase Drivers when Buying Children’s Footwear
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- Price, quality, and comfort are of utmost importance
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- Figure 108: Factors prioritised when choosing children’s footwear, May 2020
- AB consumers most likely to care about experience and the environment
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- Figure 109: Factors prioritised when choosing children’s footwear, by socio-economic status, May 2020
Attitudes towards Children’s Footwear
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- Shoppers value trusted retailers
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- Figure 110: Attitudes towards shopping for children’s footwear, May 2020
- Customer service needs to extend to those with diverse needs
Appendix – Data Sources, Abbreviations and Supporting Information
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- Abbreviations
- Consumer research methodology
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