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Designer/Upmarket Clothing - UK - March 2010

ISSUES IN THE MARKET
Main themes
Key issues
Definition
Abbreviations
FUTURE OPPORTUNITIES
Not just names and faces – but (secret) places and spaces
Expect the unexpected
Hide and seek
Spotlighting the extreme
Cult of the vagabond
Give us back our homeless
MARKET IN BRIEF
Small market, but men are keenest
Figure 1: Where clothing is  purchased, by gender, February 2010
Gender attitude differences
Opportunity of middle youth
Figure 2: Percentage of total population aged 25-54, by age group, 2004-14
Designer buyers are keen on the mid-market too
Figure 3: What designer clothing buyers buy, and where from, February 2010
Major influences on purchasing behaviour
Popularity of high street celebrity/designer collaborations
Entry-level opportunities
Barriers to buying designer/high-end clothes
Impact of the recession
Future prospects
Figure 4: Attitudes towards buying clothes in the year ahead, February 2010
INTERNAL MARKET ENVIRONMENT
Key point
 CONSUMER SPENDING
Womenswear spending vs menswear spending
Figure 5: Expenditure on womenswear and menswear £100-149 and £150-199, 2006-09
Figure 6: Expenditure on womenswear and menswear £200-299 and £300+, 2006-09
Womenswear
Figure 7: Expenditure on womenswear, 2006-09
Menswear
Figure 8: Expenditure on menswear, 2006-09
 TRENDS IN ATTITUDES TOWARDS PERSONAL APPEARANCE, FASHION AND CLOTHING
Attitudes towards appearance
Figure 9: Trends in attitudes towards appearance, 2004-09
Attitudes towards fashion and clothing
Figure 10: Trends in attitudes towards fashion and clothing, 2004-09
Attitudes towards buying clothing
Figure 11: Trends in attitudes towards buying clothing, 2004-09
Attitudes towards buying clothes by demographics
Figure 12: Key demographic differences in selected attitudes towards appearance, fashion and clothing, 2009
BROADER MARKET ENVIRONMENT
Key points
Population by socio-economic group
Figure 13: Trends in the socio-economic structure of the UK adult population, 2004-09 and 2009-14
Population by age
Figure 14: Trends in the age structure of the UK population, 2004-14
Figure 15: Percentage of total population aged 25-54, by age group, 2004-14
Population by lifestage
Figure 16: Trends in the lifestage structure of the UK adult population, 2004-14
Price deflation in clothing
Figure 17: Implied price deflator, clothing, garments, percentage change, quarter on corresponding quarter of previous year, Q1 2006-Q3 2009
UK residents travelling abroad
Figure 18: Number of overseas visits by UK residents, by region visited, 2003-08
UK residents holidaying at home – the ‘staycation’ phenomenon
Figure 19: Domestic holidays, volume and expenditure, 2004-11
STRENGTHS AND WEAKNESSES IN THE MARKET
Strengths
Weaknesses
WHO’S INNOVATING?
Key points
Lee Alexander McQueen CBE, 1969-2010
Designer/Retailer Collaborations
Designers and celebrities
Designers and sport
Entering the digital era
Live streaming of designer fashion shows
Armani goes online
New launches
Ted Baker launches diffusion line
Gucci to launch a couture line?
Boss Green adds womenswear
Mark Fast diffusion line
CH Carolina Herrera first London shop
Advertising initiatives
Family values for Missoni
Versace chooses Jagger daughter
Calvin Klein using four hunks
Cristiano Ronaldo modelling for Emporio Armani Underwear and Armani Jeans
Revival initiatives
Fashion and art
Fashion and film/TV
Menswear market
Designers get in touch with customers
Roland Mouret enters sector
Boy Zones – new menswear stores
Luxury brands focus on their heritage
Taking control
COMPETITIVE CONTEXT
Key points
Figure 20: Performance of designer and upmarket clothing compared to all clothing, 2006-14
Total clothing market overview
Designer/upmarket clothing spend
Insights from trade interviews
Consumer behaviour
Consumer attitudes
Figure 21: Attitudes towards shopping now compared to one year ago, February 2010
Figure 22: Attitude towards buying clothes in the year ahead, February 2010
Forecast
BRAND COMMUNICATION AND PROMOTION
Key points
Top 25 designer/high-end brand spenders, 2005-09
Figure 23: Main monitored media advertising expenditure, by designer/high-end brands, by level of spend in 2009, 2005-09
Designer/high-end brand adspend trends
Retailers’ advertising spending trends by total spend during 2005-09
Figure 24: Main monitored media advertising expenditure, by retailer totals, 2005-09
DESIGNER/HIGH-END FASHION BUYERS’ ATTITUDES TOWARDS BUYING CLOTHES
Key points
Figure 25: Consumer attitudes towards buying clothes, December 2009
Designer/high-end fashion buyers’ attitudes towards fashion and shopping for clothes, 2009
Figure 26: Consumer attitudes towards fashion and shopping for clothes, December 2009
Factors influencing where designer/high-end fashion buyers purchase clothes, 2009
Figure 27: Factors influencing choice of outlets for purchasing clothing and footwear, December 2009
WHO ARE THE DESIGNER AND UPMARKET CLOTHING BUYERS?
Key points
Segmenting consumers by clothing retailer
What are consumers buying and from which type of store?
Figure 28: Place of purchase of designer clothing, by gender, February 2010
Figure 29: Clothes purchasing, by type of clothes and type of retailer, February 2010
High-end designer clothing shoppers – who they are and what they buy
Figure 30: Type of garments bought from high-end designer retailers, by gender, age and socio-economic group, February 2010
Men are keener than women on designer clothes
Figure 31: Type of garments bought from high-end designer retailers, by gender, February 2010
Figure 32: Type of garments bought from high-end designer retailers, by socio-economic group, February 2010
Upmarket high street clothing shoppers – who they are and what they buy
Figure 33: Type of garments bought from upmarket high street retailers, by gender, age and socio-economic group, February 2010
Men are still keener than women, apart from formalwear
Opportunity to target C2s
Mid-market clothing buyers – who they are and what they buy
Figure 34: Type of garments bought from mid-market clothing retailers, by gender, age and socio-economic group, February 2010
What are high-end designer shoppers also buying?
Figure 35: Other outlets where designer buyers shop, by type of clothing, February 2010
WHAT MOTIVATES DESIGNER AND UPMARKET CLOTHING BUYERS TO SHOP?
Key points
Consumer buying motivations
Figure 36: Motivations to buy clothes (netted), by buyer group, February 2010
Figure 37: Motivations to buy clothes, by buyer group, February 2010
Factors that designer and upmarket buyers have in common…
…and how they differ
WHERE IS HIGH-END DESIGNER CLOTHING BOUGHT?
Key points
Department stores rule, but almost all channels have suffered cutbacks
Figure 38: Stores where high-end designer clothes are bought, February 2010
Designer stores and online more insulated
Figure 39: Purchase of high-end designer clothes, by outlet type, gender, age and socio-economic group, February 2010
Missing out on the key 45-54 consumer sector…
…and the opportunity of the aspirational C2s
People who have bought high-end designer clothing in the last year
Young men especially
Financial constraints
Figure 40: Purchase of high-end designer clothes in last year, by outlet type, by gender, age and socio-economic group, February 2010
People who have bought high-end designer clothing, but longer than a year ago
Women have cut back more than men
Older age groups reprioritising spending away from clothes?
Figure 41: Purchase of high-end designer clothes more than one year ago, by outlet type, by gender, age and socio-economic group, February 2010
What high-end designer clothing is bought, and where from?
Figure 42: Types of high-end designer clothes bought, by outlet type, February 2010
HIGH STREET DESIGNER/CELEBRITY RANGES
Key points
The rise of the high street designer collection
Who buys high street designer/celebrity ranges?
Figure 43: Purchase of high street designer/celebrity clothing ranges, by buyer types, February 2010
Figure 44: Most popular stores where high street designer/celebrity clothing ranges are bought, by gender, age and socio-economic group, February 2010
ATTITUDES TOWARDS DESIGNER CLOTHES
Key points
Figure 45: Attitudes towards designer clothes, February 2010
Positive attitudes: Who thinks what
Figure 46: Attitudes towards designer clothes, by gender, February 2010
Figure 47: Most popular attitudes towards designer clothes, by gender, age and socio-economic group, February 2010
 FURTHER ATTITUDES TOWARDS DESIGNER CLOTHES
Figure 48: Attitudes towards designer clothes, by buyer type, February 2010
Negative attitudes/barriers to buying designer clothes: Who thinks what
Figure 49: Barriers to buying designer clothes, by gender, February 2010
Figure 50: Most popular attitudes towards designer clothes, by gender, age and socio-economic group, February 2010
Entry-level opportunities
Figure 51: Next most popular statements on designer clothes, by gender, age and socio-economic group, February 2010
TARGET GROUPS
Figure 52: Target groups for designer clothes, February 2010
Designer Status Seekers (22%)
Hard-up Admirers (21%)
Disinterested (57%)
APPENDIX – INTERNAL MARKET ENVIRONMENT
Figure 53: Expenditure on womenswear, 2006-09
Figure 54: Expenditure on menswear, 2006-09
APPENDIX – BROADER MARKET ENVIRONMENT
Figure 55: Trends in statements on appearance, fashion, clothing, by demographics, 2009
Figure 56: Trends in statements on appearance, fashion, clothing, by demographics, 2009 (continued)
Figure 57: Trends in statements on appearance, fashion, clothing, by demographics, 2009 (continued)
Figure 58: Trends in statements on appearance, fashion, clothing, by demographics, 2009 (continued)
Figure 59: Expenditure on womenswear, 2006-09
Figure 60: Expenditure on menswear, 2006-09
Figure 61: Expenditure on womenswear, 2006-09
Figure 62: Expenditure on menswear, 2006-09
APPENDIX – WHERE IS HIGH-END DESIGNER CLOTHING BOUGHT?
Figure 63: Bought different clothes from high-end designer, by demographics, February 2010
Figure 64: Bought different clothes from group of retailers, by demographics, February 2010
Figure 65: Bought different clothes from group of retailers, by demographics, February 2010 (continued)
Figure 66: Bought different clothes from group of retailers, by demographics, February 2010
Figure 67: Bought different clothes from group of retailers, by demographics, February 2010 (continued)
Figure 68: Stores where high-end designer clothes bought, by demographics, February 2010
Figure 69: Stores where high-end designer clothes bought, by demographics, February 2010 (continued)
Figure 70: Stores where high-end designer clothes bought, by demographics, February 2010
Figure 71: Stores where high-end designer clothes bought, by demographics, February 2010 (continued)
Figure 72: Stores where high-end designer clothes bought, by demographics, February 2010
Figure 73: Stores where high-end designer clothes bought, by demographics, February 2010 (continued)
APPENDIX – HIGH STREET DESIGNER/CELEBRITY RANGES
Figure 74: Most popular stores where high street designer/celebrity clothing ranges bought, by demographics, February 2010
Figure 75: Next most popular stores where high street designer/celebrity clothing ranges bought, by demographics, February 2010 (continued)
Figure 76: Most popular stores where high street designer/celebrity clothing ranges bought, by demographics, February 2010
Figure 77: Next most popular stores where high street designer/celebrity clothing ranges bought, by demographics, February 2010 (continued)
APPENDIX – ATTITUDES TOWARDS DESIGNER CLOTHES
Figure 78: Most popular attitudes towards designer clothes, by demographics, February 2010
Figure 79: Next most popular attitudes towards designer clothes, by demographics, February 2010 (continued)
Figure 80: Most popular statements on designer/celebrity brands, by demographics, February 2010
Figure 81: Next most popular statements on designer/celebrity brands, by demographics, February 2010 (continued)
APPENDIX – TARGET GROUPS
Figure 82: Target groups on attitudes towards designer/celebrity brands, by demographics, February 2010
Figure 83: Target groups on attitudes towards designer/celebrity brands, by demographics, February 2010
Figure 84: Bought different clothes from group of retailers, by target groups on attitudes towards designer/celebrity brands, February 2010
Figure 85: Stores where high-end designer clothes bought, by target groups on attitudes towards designer/celebrity brands, February 2010
Figure 86: Stores where high street designer/celebrity clothing ranges bought, by target groups on attitudes towards designer/celebrity brands, February 2010

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