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Clothing Retailing - France - October 2006

EXECUTIVE SUMMARY
Clothing market remains subdued
Low inflation keeps a lid on sales growth
Specialists capture the lion’s share of spending
Hypermarkets and mail order grow market share
Department stores less popular
Specialists outperform clothing market
Vivarte heads the leader board
Many domestic players look to international opportunities
Clothing specialists predicted to lose share of all retail sales
REPORT SCOPE AND TECHNICAL NOTES
Clothing sector versus clothing market
 TECHNICAL NOTES
Financial definitions
Currencies
Figure 1: Exchange rates: National currencies against the Euro, 2002-05
Country codes
VAT
Figure 2: Europe: Standard VAT rates, 2005
Other abbreviations
BACKGROUND DATA
Population
Figure 3: France: Population trends, 2002-06
Figure 4: France: Population, by age group and sex, 2006
Figure 5: France: Households, 2005
Figure 6: France: Regions and major cities, 1999 and 2004/05
Economy
Figure 7: France: Gross domestic product, 1995-2005
Figure 8: France: Consumer prices, 1998-2005
Figure 9: France: Consumer expenditure, 1995-2005
Figure 10: France: Detailed breakdown of consumer expenditure, 2000-04
THE CLOTHING MARKET IN FRANCE
Clothing market value and trends
Figure 11: France: Consumer spending on clothing, 2001-05
Figure 12: France: Relative performance of clothing market, 2001-05(e)
Channels of distribution
Figure 13: France: Clothing market – channels of distribution, 2005
Grocers
Home shopping
Sports goods retailers
Department and variety stores
 THE CLOTHING SPECIALISTS’ SECTOR IN FRANCE
Sector value and trends
Figure 14: France: Clothing specialists’ sales, 2001-05
Figure 15: France: Clothing specialists, relative performance, 2001-05
Outlet and enterprise data
Figure 16: France: Retail enterprises and outlet numbers, 2000 and 2002
EUROPEAN CONSUMER TRENDS
Introduction
Comparison of clothing shopping patterns across Europe
Figure 17: Penetration of clothing purchasing, by country, 2005
Figure 18: Comparison of clothing purchasing in last 12 months, by country, 2005
Frequency of shopping
Figure 19: Comparison of clothing purchasing in last 3 months vs last 12 months, by country, 2005
Comparison of consumer typologies across Europe
Figure 20: Clothing consumer typologies, by country, 2005
Germany
France
Great Britain
Spain
Comparison of agreement with clothing lifestyle statements
Figure 21: Agreement with clothing lifestyle statements, by country, 2005
THE CONSUMER – WHERE THEY SHOP
Topline purchasing results
Figure 22: Where consumers have bought clothes in the last 12 months, 2006
Market positioning
Figure 23: France: Market positioning of major clothing retailers, May 2006
Consumer demographics
Non-specialists
Figure 24: Where consumers bought clothes in last 12 months by gender, age, income and occupation, May 2006
Clothing generalists
Figure 25: Where consumers bought clothes in last 12 months by gender, age, income and occupation, May 2006
Clothing specialists
Figure 26: Where consumers bought clothes in last 12 months by age, income and occupation, May 2006
Repertoire analysis
Figure 27: France: Number of clothes shops used by retailer bought from, May 2006
THE CONSUMER – MOTIVATIONS AND SHOPPING HABITS
Demographic characteristics of consumer typologies
Figure 28: France: Well-dressed, stylish, practical, sporty and fashion conscious consumer groups, by gender, age, family income, region, working status and presence of children, 2005
Figure 29: France: Shopaholic, individualist, big spender, and label seeker consumer groups, by gender, age, family income, region, working status and presence of children, 2005
Agreement with clothing lifestyle statements by consumer typologies
Figure 30: France: Agreement with clothing lifestyle statements, by well-dressed, stylish, practical, sporty and fashion conscious typology groups, 2005
Figure 31: France: Agreement with clothing lifestyle statements, by fashion conscious, big spenders, individualists and label seekers typology groups, 2005
LEADING SPECIALISTS
Vivarte leads the pack
Inditex and H&M move swiftly up the leader board
Camaïeu turns in a strong performance too
Etam struggles
Celio diversifies into womensear
Promod goes for fast fashion
Okaïdi and Jacadi join forces
Figure 32: France: Leading clothing specialists, 2005
Market shares
Figure 33: France: Leading clothing specialists’ market shares, 2005
PROSPECTS AND FORECASTS
Prospects
Forecasts
Figure 34: France: Clothing specialists’ sales, 2005-10
Figure 35: France: Clothing specialists’ sales as % of all retail sales, 2001-10(f)
COMPANY PROFILES
BENETTON GROUP
Figure 36: Benetton Group: Sales as share of clothing specialists in Europe, 2001-05
Strategic evaluation
Background
Financial performance
Figure 37: Benetton Group: Group financial performance, 2001-05
Figure 38: Benetton Group sales by geographical area, 2001-05
Figure 39: Benetton Group sales by geographical area, 2005
Figure 40: Benetton Group sales by commercial activity, 2002-05
Store portfolio
Figure 41: Benetton Group: Outlet data, 2001-05
Retail offering
Market positioning
Brands
Figure 42: Benetton Group: Sales by brand, 2005
Product offer
Pricing
Operational issues
Advertising & marketing
e-commerce & home shopping
C&A
Figure 43: C&A: Sales as share of clothing specialists’ sales in Europe, 2001-05
Figure 44: C&A: German sales as share of Clothing specialists’ sales in Germany, 2001-05
Strategic evaluation
A good year in a tough market
Settling on a winning formula
Expansion continues
Background
Financial performance
Figure 45: C&A: Group financial performance, 2001-05
Figure 46: C&A: Sales in European markets, 2004 and 2005
Store portfolio
Figure 47: C&A: European outlet data, 2002-06
Figure 48: C&A: Total number of outlets, by European country, 2001-06
Figure 49: Number of European outlets by fascia, Spring 2006
Retail offering
Market positioning
Brands
Product offer
Pricing
Operational issues
Advertising & marketing
e-commerce & home shopping
GRUPO CORTEFIEL
Figure 50: Grupo Cortefiel: Sales as share of Clothing specialists’ sales in Spain, 2002-05
Strategic evaluation
Background
Financial performance
Figure 51: Cortefiel: Financial performance, 2002-05
Figure 52: Cortefiel: Sales in company-owned stores by fascia, 2002-05
Figure 53: Cortefiel: Sales in company-owned stores by fascia, 2002-05
Store portfolio
Figure 54: Grupo Cortefiel: Company-owned outlet data, 2001-05
Outlet numbers by fascia and type
Figure 55: Cortefiel: Outlet numbers by fascia, and type, 2001-05
Figure 56: Cortefiel: Breakdown of company-owned and franchised stores, 2002-05
Ambition expansion plans
European operations
Company-owned
Figure 57: Cortefiel: Number of company-owned outlets by country, Feb 2004, Feb 2005, Sept 2005
Figure 58: Cortefiel: Spanish outlets by fascia, September 2005
Franchised stores
Agreement with Kaufhof department stores in Germany
Expansion in the Netherlands
Figure 59: Cortefiel: Number of company-owned outlets by country and fascia, February 2005
Non-European operations
China
India
Retail offering
Market positioning
Product offer by brand
New Springfield Woman brand
Loyalty cards
Logistics
E-commerce
GAP INC
Figure 60: Gap Inc: Sales as % of clothing retailers’ sales in United States, 2001-05
Figure 61: Gap UK: Sales as share of clothing retailers’ sales in UK, 2001-05
Figure 62: Gap France: Sales as share of clothing retailers’ sales in France, 2001-05
Strategic evaluation
Background
The downturn
The downturn in Europe
Financial performance
Figure 63: Gap Inc: Group financial performance, 2001-05
Store portfolio
Figure 64: Gap Inc: Outlet data, 2002-06
Retail offering
Market positioning
Brands
Product offer
Pricing
Advertising & marketing
e-commerce & home shopping
H&M HENNES & MAURITZ
Figure 65: H&M Hennes & Mauritz: Sales as share of clothing specialists’ sales in Europe, 2001-05
Figure 66: H&M Hennes & Mauritz: Sales as share of clothing specialists’ sales in Sweden, 2001-05
Figure 67: H&M Hennes & Mauritz: Sales as share of clothing specialists’ sales in Germany, 2001-05
Figure 68: H&M Hennes & Mauritz: Sales as share of clothing specialists’ sales in the UK, 2001-05
Strategic evaluation
Recent development
Expansion
New format
One-off collections
Background
Figure 69: H&M Hennes & Mauritz: International expansion record, 1964-2005
A tradition of direct control
Financial performance
Figure 70: H&M Hennes & Mauritz: Group financial performance, 2001-05
H1 2006
UK
Figure 71: H&M Hennes & Mauritz: UK financial performance, 2001-05
Relative importance of regions
Figure 72: Hennes & Mauritz: Relative sales importance by country, 2001 and 2005
Figure 73: Hennes & Mauritz: Sales versus outlet growth by country, 2001-05
Figure 74: H&M Hennes & Mauritz: Percentage change in local currency sales and number of outlets by country, 2003-05
Store portfolio
Figure 75: H&M Hennes & Mauritz: Outlet data, 2001-05
Figure 76: Hennes & Mauritz: Sales per outlet by country, 2004/05
Store concept
Concept stores
Future expansion
Retail offering
Market positioning
Brands and product offer
Figure 77: H&M: Own-brand portfolio, 2006
One-off collections
Pricing
Operational issues
Advertising & marketing
Figure 78: H&M: Advertising spending in the UK, 2005
E-commerce & home shopping
GRUPO INDITEX
Figure 79: Grupo Inditex: Sales as share of clothing specialists’ sales in Europe, 2001-05
Figure 80: Grupo Inditex: Sales as share of clothing specialists’ sales in Spain, 2001-05
Strategic evaluation
Expansion
Brand portfolio
New formats
Background
Financial performance
Figure 81: Grupo Inditex: Financial performance, 2002-06
Like-for-like sales growth
Figure 82: Grupo Inditex: Like-for-like sales growth, 2001/02-2005/06
Financial performance by fascia
Figure 83: Grupo Inditex: Sales performance by fascia, 2002-06
Figure 84: Grupo Inditex: Sales by fascia, 2002-06
Figure 85: Grupo Inditex: Operating profit performance by fascia, 2002-06
Figure 86: Grupo Inditex: Operating profit by fascia, 2002-06
Sales by geographic region
Figure 87: Grupo Inditex: Consolidated sales by geographic region, 2002-06
Sales in selected European markets
Figure 88: Grupo Inditex: Estimated sales in key European markets, 2004/05-2005/06
Store portfolio
Figure 89: Grupo Inditex: Outlet and country numbers, 2001/02-2005/06
Figure 90: Grupo Inditex: Outlet data, 2001/02-2005/06
Outlet data by fascia
Figure 91: Grupo Inditex: Outlet data by fascia, 2001/02-2005/06
Figure 92: Grupo Inditex: Sales area by fascia, 2002-06
Figure 93: Grupo Inditex: % change in sales and sales area by fascia, 2001-06
European outlet data by country
Figure 94: Grupo Inditex: Outlet data by European market, 2002-06
Figure 95: Grupo Inditex: Outlet data by European market and by fascia, January 2006
Franchises and joint ventures
Figure 96: Grupo Inditex: Share of franchised stores in group sales and stores, 2001/02-2005/06
Figure 97: Grupo Inditex: Forecast number of store openings, 2006/07
Retail offering
Zara
Bershka
Massimo Dutti
Pull and Bear
Oysho
Kiddy’s Class
Operational issues
Advertising & marketing
E-commerce & home shopping
MANGO GROUP
Figure 98: Mango Group: Sales as share of Spanish clothing specialists’ sales, 2000-04
Figure 99: Mango Group: Sales as share of clothing specialists’ sales in Europe, 2001-05
Strategic evaluation
Background
Financial performance
Figure 100: Mango Group: Group financial performance, 2002-06
Retail sales by selected European market
Figure 101: Mango: Estimated retail sales in selected European and non-European markets, 2005
Figure 102: Mango Group: Domestic and international retail sales mix, 2002-06
Store portfolio
Figure 103: Mango Group: Outlet data, 2001-05
Figure 104: Mango: Share of European and non-European stores, August 2006
2005/06 store openings
Figure 105: Mango Group: Store development, 1999-2005
Focus on franchising
New airport store portfolio
Figure 106: Mango Airport operations, August 2006
European outlet data by country
Figure 107: Mango: Number of stores by selected European country, July 2004, March 2005 and August 2006
Figure 108: Mango: Outlet data by European market, July 2004, March 2005 and August 2006
Figure 109: Mango: Share of European stores by country, August 2006
Germany
Portugal
Greece
Italy
Russia
Poland and Eastern Europe
Non-European activities
Figure 110: Mango: Non-European stores network, July 2004, March 2005 and August 2006
Mango Asia
Mango North America
Retail offering
Market positioning
Brands
Product offer
Pricing
Operational issues: The Mango logistics system
Advertising & marketing
E-commerce & home shopping
NEW LOOK GROUP PLC
Figure 111: New Look Group Plc: Sales as share of clothing specialists’ sales in Europe, 2001-05
Figure 112: New Look (UK): Sales as share of clothing and footwear specialists’ sales in UK, 2001-05
Figure 113: Mim France: Sales as share of clothing and footwear specialists’ sales in France, 2001-05
Strategic evaluation
Background
Financial performance
Figure 114: New Look Group Plc: Group financial performance, 2002-06
Store portfolio
Figure 115: New Look Group Plc: Outlet data, 2002-06
Retail offering
Market positioning
Brands
Product offer
Pricing
Operational issues
Advertising & marketing
Figure 116: New Look: Advertising expenditure, 2001-05
Figure 117: New Look: Advertising spend by media, 2005
e-commerce & home shopping
MINI COMPANY PROFILES
DIRAMODE (PIMKIE)
Background
Financial performance
Store portfolio
Figure 118: Pimkie: Outlet numbers, 2005 and 2006
Retail offering
Market positioning and customer audience
Product offer
Brands
Operations
Loyalty card
e-commerce & home shopping
ESPRIT
Strategic evaluation
Background
Financial performance
Figure 119: Esprit: Sales performance by channel and region, 2001-05
Figure 120: Esprit: Group financial performance, 2001-05
Store portfolio
Figure 121: Esprit: Outlet data, 2001-05
Retail offering
Market positioning
Brands
Product offer
Figure 122: Esprit: Product mix, 2005
Pricing
e-commerce & home shopping
ETAM GROUP
Figure 123: Etam Group: Sales as share of clothing specialists’ sales in Europe, 2001-05
Figure 124: Etam Group: Sales as share of clothing specialists’ sales in France, 2001-05
Background
Financial performance
Figure 125: Etam Group: Group financial performance, 2001-05
Figure 126: Etam Group: European sales by country, 2004 and 2005
Store portfolio
Figure 127: Etam Group: Outlet data, 2001-05
Figure 128: Etam: Outlet numbers by country, 2003-05
Figure 129: Etam: Outlet numbers by brand, 2001-05
Retail offering
Figure 130: Etam: Brands, 2006
Operational issues
e-commerce & home shopping
VIVARTE
Background
La Halle! history
Footwear
PAI looks to sell
Financial performance
Figure 131: Vivarte: Sales performance, 2001-05
Store portfolio
Figure 132: Vivarte: outlet data, 2001-04
Retail offering
Market positioning and customer audience
Product offer
e-commerce & home shopping

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