Teenage Cosmetics and Toiletries - UK - August 2004

INTRODUCTION AND ABBREVIATIONS
Definitions
Consumer research
ACORN
Advertising data
 ABBREVIATIONS
PREMIER INSIGHT
EXECUTIVE SUMMARY
What influences teenagers to buy
The cosmetics and toiletries market in perspective
Which brands target teenagers?
Advertising and promotion
Boots and grocers battle it out
Teenage girls are sophisticated consumers
Future groomers in teenage boys
The future
MARKET DRIVERS
Population shifts
Figure 1: Trends and projections in UK population, by age group, 1999-2008
15-19s to increase
Dual income fuels spending
Figure 2: PDI and consumer expenditure, at constant 1999 prices, 1999-2008
Growing up, growing expenses
Trends in pocket money
Figure 3: Average weekly income of 7-14-year-olds, by gender and age group, 2001-03
Figure 4: Average monthly income of 15-16-year-olds, by gender and age group, 2001-03
The fight for teen spending
Figure 5: How 11-16-year-olds spend their money, by age group, 2003
Utilising the competition
It’s a girl thing
Figure 6: How 11-16-year-olds spend their money, by gender, 2003
15-16s splash out on appearance
Figure 7: Average weekly spend, 11-16-year-olds, by age group, 2003
Generation text
Figure 8: Mobile phone usage and ownership among 7-19-year-olds, by gender and age group, 2003
Window-shopping and peer pressure
Figure 9: Leisure activities in the past seven days, 11-19-year-olds, by age group and gender, 2003
Skin deep
Figure 10: Perceived skin condition, 11-19-year-olds, by gender and age group, 2003
Weapon of choice
Figure 11: Method used to clean the skin, 11-19-year-olds, by gender and age group, 2003
Crowning glory
Figure 12: Perceived hair condition, 11-19-year-olds, by gender and age group, 2003
Boys just want to be normal
MARKET OVERVIEW AND TRENDS
Growth for grooming
Figure 13: UK retail sales of cosmetics and toiletries, 1999-2004
Haircare dominates
Figure 14: UK retail sales of cosmetics and toiletries, by sector, 2001 and 2003
Promotion and endorsement
An industry driven by surface values
MARKET SEGMENTATION
The hair and now
Figure 15: UK retail sales of haircare, 1999-2004*
Hair expression
Make-up momentum
Figure 16: UK retail sales of make-up, 1999-2004
Teenage trends mean extra spend
The male grooming trend
Figure 17: UK retail sales of men’s grooming products, 1999-2004
Clean living
Figure 18: UK retail sales of soap, bath and shower products, 1999-2004
Novelty drives fragrance
Figure 19: UK retail sales of women’s fragrance, 1999-2004
The sweet smell of success
Getting fresh
Figure 20: UK retail sales of women’s deodorants and bodysprays, 1999-2004
Face value
Figure 21: UK retail sales of facial skincare, 1999-2004
Hand and body
Figure 22: UK retail sales of hand and bodycare products, 1999-2004
THE SUPPLY STRUCTURE
Bridging the gap
Brands which target teenagers by sector
Hair colourants
L'Oréal gets teen-specific
Hair styling
Finely tuned targets
Skincare
Make-up
Digging deeper
Female bodysprays
Evolving a brand
Fine fragrance
Men’s toiletries
Has salience saturated the market?
ADVERTISING AND PROMOTION
Above the line
NPD lifts support spend
Figure 23: Main monitored media advertising expenditure on cosmetics and toiletries, 1999-2004
Beauty aids top the bill
Figure 24: Main monitored media advertising expenditure on cosmetics and toiletries, by sector, 2003
High spend for hygiene
Competition drives hair spend
P&G vs L'Oréal
Figure 25: Top spenders on grooming products, 2003
Below the line
Figure 26: Examples of below-the-line promotions undertaken on cosmetics, July 2004
NEW PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
Figure 27: UK – Health and beauty product launches by category, March 2003-February 2004
New product briefs
 HAIRCARE
 COSMETICS
 DEODORANT
 FRAGRANCE
 SKINCARE
 SOAP, BATH AND SHOWER
 SHAVING AND DEPILATORIES
DISTRIBUTION
Grocers continue to make inroads
Tesco on toiletries
Boots fights to stay in the game
New concepts
Own-label and new labels
Superdrug appeals to teenagers
Department stores stay premium
 SPECIALIST RETAILERS
Lush Cosmetics Ltd
The Perfume Shop
Sephora
The Body Shop
THE CONSUMER – 7-14-YEAR-OLDS
Grooming habits start with 7-10-year-olds
Figure 28: Usage of toiletries among 7-10-year-old boys and girls, by age group, 2003
Girls dominate toiletries
Teen grooming
Figure 29: Frequency of usage of shower gels among 11-14-year-old boys and girls, 2003
Deodorant – the teenage essential
Figure 30: Frequency of usage of deodorants among 11-14-year-old boys and girls, by age group, 2003
Figure 31: Type of deodorant used, by 11-14-year-old boys and girls, by age group, 2003
Would a teen by any other name smell as sweet?
Figure 32: Frequency of aftershave/male fragrance usage among 11-14-year-old boys, by age group, 2003
Girls dominate fragrance
Figure 33: Frequency of bodyspray usage among 11-14-year-old girls, by age group, 2003
Figure 34: Frequency of perfume usage among 11-14-year-old girls, by age group, 2003
Spot the biggest users
Figure 35: Frequency of usage of spot cream among 11-14-year-old boys and girls, by age group, 2003
Face facts
Figure 36: Frequency of usage of medicated face washes and wipes among 11-14-year-old boys and girls, by age group, 2003
Girls and skincare
Figure 37: Frequency of usage of selected skincare products among 11-14-year-old girls, by age group, 2003
Prone to pampering
Figure 38: Frequency of usage of selected skincare products among 11-14-year-old girls, by age group, 2003
More make-up – more remover
Girls aged 11-14 – prime targets
Fresh-faced
Figure 39: Usage of make-up and perfumes among 7-10-year-old girls, by age group, 2003
Figure 40: Frequency of face make-up usage among 11-14-year-old girls, by age group, 2003
Body and soul
Figure 41: Frequency of body lotions and moisturiser usage among 11-14-year-old girls, by age group, 2003
Suncare
Figure 42: Frequency of usage of suncare among 11-14-year-old boys and girls, by age group, 2003
Incorporating the SPF
Figure 43: Usage of sunblock, aftersun and self-tanning cream/lotion/oil among 11-14-year-old boys and girls, by age group, 2003
Crowning glory
Figure 44: Frequency of hair washing among 11-14-year-old boys and girls, 2003
The battle against split ends
Take two bottles into the shower?
Figure 45: Usage of shampoos and conditioners among 11-14-year-old boys and girls, 2003
Type targeting
Figure 46: Preference for type of shampoo variant among 11-14-year-old boys and girls, 2003
Maintaining appearance and machismo
Gel use
Figure 47: Frequency of hair gel usage among 11-14-year-old boys, by age group, 2003
Girl power
Figure 48: Frequency of hairstyling product usage among 11-14-year-old girls, by age group, 2003
Colour up
Figure 49: Frequency of hair colourant usage among 11-14-year-old girls, by age group, 2003
 DETAILED DEMOGRAPHICS – 11-14S
Haircare
Figure 50: Separate conditioner usage among 11-14-year-old boys and girls, 2003
Figure 51: Length and style of hair among 11-14-year-old girls, 2003
Figure 52: Length and style of hair among 11-14-year-old boys, 2004
Figure 53: Frequency of usage of deodorants among 11-14-year-old boys and girls, by age group, 2003
Figure 54: Type of deodorant used, by 11-14-year-old boys and girls, by age group, 2003
Make-up
Figure 55: Frequency of face make-up usage among 11-14-year-old girls, by age group, 2003
Figure 56: Frequency of eye make-up usage among 11-14-year-old girls, by age group, 2003
Figure 57: Frequency of lipstick and nail varnish usage among 11-14-year-old girls, by age group, 2003
Hair removal
Figure 58: Frequency of hair removing among 11-14-year-old girls, by age group, 2003
Figure 59: Method of hair removal used by 11-14-year-old girls, by age group, 2003
THE CONSUMER – 15-19-YEAR-OLDS
Targeting opportunities for the older teenage girl
Opportunities for cross-promotion
Usage of cosmetics and toiletries by the older teenager
Tan vs suncare
Hair-aware
Shower vs bath
Fragrance use maintained
Taking palettes to the masses
Grooming teenage boys for future growth
Moving on from soap and water
Targeting shavers with problem skin
Sunblock not cool enough
Conditioner a lost cause?
Aerosol addicts
 DETAILED DEMOGRAPHICS – 15-19-YEAR-OLDS
Girls
Facial cleansing and spot treatments
Figure 60: Frequency of usage of selected cleansing and spot treatments among 15-19-year-old girls, by age group, 2003
Figure 61: Frequency of usage of selected cleansers and moisturisers among 15-19-year-old girls, by age group, 2003
Figure 62: Frequency of usage of face packs and make-up remover among 15-19-year-old girls, by age group, 2003
Bodycare
Figure 63: Frequency of usage of bodycare among 15-19-year-old girls, by age group, 2003
Suncare
Figure 64: Frequency of usage of suncare among 15-19-year-old girls, by age group, 2003
Figure 65: Usage of aftersun, sunblock and self-tanning cream/lotion/oil among 15-19-year-old girls, by age group, 2003
Haircare
Figure 66: Usage of shampoos and conditioners among 15-19-year-old girls, by age group, 2003
Figure 67: Separate conditioner usage among 15-19-year-old girls, by age group, 2003
Figure 68: Preference for type of shampoo variant among 15-19-year-old girls, by age group, 2003
Figure 69: Frequency of hairstyling product usage among 15-19-year-old girls, by age group, 2003
Figure 70: Length and style of hair among 15-19-year-old girls, by age group, 2003
Figure 71: Frequency of hairstyling product usage among 15-19-year-old girls, by length and style of hair, 2003
Figure 72: Frequency of hair colourant usage among 15-19-year-old girls, by age group, 2003
Washing and deodorising
Figure 73: Frequency of shower gel usage among 15-19-year-old girls, by age group, 2003
Figure 74: Frequency of deodorant usage among 15-19-year-old girls, by age group, 2003
Figure 75: Deodorant format preferred among 15-19-year-old girls, by age group, 2003
Figure 76: Frequency of bodyspray usage among 15-19-year-old girls, by age group, 2003
Figure 77: Frequency of perfume usage among 15-19-year-old girls, by age group, 2003
Make-up
Figure 78: Frequency of face make-up usage among 15-19-year-old girls, by age group, 2003
Figure 79: Frequency of eye make-up usage among 15-19-year-old girls, by age group, 2003
Figure 80: Frequency of lipstick and nail varnish usage among 15-19-year-old girls, by age group, 2003
Figure 81: Frequency of lip balm usage among 15-19-year-old girls, by age group, 2003
Hair removal
Figure 82: Frequency of hair removal among 15-19-year-old girls, by age group, 2003
Figure 83: Preferred method of hair removal among 15-19-year-old girls, by age group, 2003
Boys
Face washes and spot treatments
Figure 84: Frequency of usage of medicated face washes and spot treatments among 15-19-year-old boys, by age group, 2003
Suncare
Figure 85: Frequency of usage of suncare among 15-19-year-old boys, by age group, 2003
Figure 86: Usage of sunblock, aftersun and self-tanning cream/lotion/oil among 15-19-year-old boys, by age group, 2003
Haircare
Figure 87: Usage of shampoos and conditioners among 15-19-year-old boys, by age group, 2003
Figure 88: Preference for type of shampoo variant among 15-19-year-old boys, by age group, 2003
Figure 89: Frequency of hair gel usage among 15-19-year-old boys, by age group, 2003
Figure 90: Length and style of hair among 15-19-year-old boys, 2003
Shaving
Figure 91: Frequency of shaving among 15-19-year-old boys, by age group, 2003
Figure 92: Preferred method of shaving among 15-19-year-old boys, by age group, 2003
Figure 93: Preferred type of shaving product among 15-19-year-old boys, by age group, 2003
Boys washing and deodorising
Figure 94: Frequency of shower gel usage among 15-19-year-old boys, by age group, 2003
Figure 95: Frequency of deodorant usage among 15-19-year-old boys, by age group, 2003
Figure 96: Deodorant format preferred among 15-19-year-old boys, by age group, 2003
Figure 97: Frequency of aftershave/male fragrance usage among 15-19-year-old boys, by age group, 2003
 MIXED RESULTS
Figure 98: Method of skin cleansing among 15-19-year-old boys, by condition of skin, 2003
Figure 99: Daily cleansing and moisturising among 15-19-year-old boys, by condition of skin, 2003
THE CONSUMER: ASSESSING ATTITUDES AND ENTHUSIASM
Figure 100: Agreement and disagreement with selected statements regarding self-image and appearance among 11-14-year-old boys and girls, by age group, 2003
The rules of attraction
Figure 101: Agreement and disagreement with selected statements regarding self-image and appearance among 15-19-year-old boys and girls, by age group, 2003
Ethical concerns
Figure 102: Agreement and disagreement with selected statements regarding the environment among 11-14-year-old boys and girls, by age group, 2003
Older and wiser?
Figure 103: Agreement and disagreement with selected statements regarding the environment among 15-19-year-old boys and girls, by age group, 2003
 THE DECISION-MAKING PROCESS
11-14-year-old boys rely on parental influence
All or nothing for suncare
Girls take control
Mid-teen girls trade up
Targeting the older boys
Boys decide on fragrance and freshness
 ASSESSING TARGETS
Figure 104: Consumer typology groups for teenage cosmetic and toiletries use, 2003
Self-conscious (36% of the sample)
Trend Setters (26% of the sample)
Individualists (15% of the sample)
Unconcerned (22% of the sample)
Usage of toiletries and cosmetics amongst girls aged 11-14
Figure 105: Cluster groups, 11-14-year-olds, by demographic sub-group, 2003
Figure 106: Cluster groups, 11-14-year-old girls, by usage of toiletries and cosmetics, 2003
Fragrance bridges typologies
Make-up dominates the fashion purchase
Figure 107: Cluster groups, 11-14-year-old girls, by average amount spent per month on beauty/haircare, 2003
Natural beauty neglected
Trend Setters want gel
Figure 108: Cluster groups, 11-14-year-old boys, by usage of toiletries, 2003
 DETAILED DEMOGRAPHICS
Figure 109: Who decides the brands of medicated face washes and wipes used, by 11-14-year-old boys and girls, by age group, 2003
Figure 110: Who decides the brands of spot creams used, by 11-14-year-old boys and girls, by age group, 2003
Figure 111: The decision-making process for brands of selected skincare products used, by 11-14-year-old girls, by age group, 2003
Figure 112: Monthly expenditure on cleansers and moisturisers among 11-14-year-old girls, 2003
Figure 113: The decision-making process for brands of body lotions and moisturiser products among 11-14-year-old girls, by age group, 2003
Figure 114: The decision-making process for brands of suntan lotions, oils and creams for 11-14-year-old boys and girls, by age group, 2003
Figure 115: The decision-making process for brands of shampoo and conditioner for 11-14-year-old boys and girls, by age group, 2003
Figure 116: The decision-making process for brand of hair mousse/gel among 11-14-year-old boys, by age group, 2003
Figure 117: The decision-making process for brands of hair mousse/gel among 11-14-year-old girls, by age group, 2003
Figure 118: Monthly expenditure on haircare products among 11-14-year-old girls, 2003
Figure 119: The decision-making process for brands of shower gels for 11-14-year-old boys and girls, by age group, 2003
Figure 120: The decision-making process for brands of deodorants for 11-14-year-old boys and girls, by age group, 2003
Figure 121: The decision-making process for brands of perfume and bodysprays among 11-14-year-old girls, by age group, 2003
Figure 122: Expenditure on bottles of perfume among 11-14-year-old girls, 2003
Figure 123: The decision-making process for brands of aftershave/male fragrance among 11-14-year-old boys, by age group, 2003
Figure 124: Purchaser of make-up for 11-14-year-old girls, by age group, 2003
Figure 125: Monthly expenditure on make-up products among 11-14-year-old girls, 2003
Who decides: older teenagers
Figure 126: The decision-making process for brands of selected facial skincare products among 15-19-year-old girls, by age group, 2003
Figure 127: The decision-making process for brands of selected cleansers and moisturisers among 15-19-year-old girls, by age group, 2003
Figure 128: The decision-making process for brands of body creams and lotions among 15-19-year-old girls, by age group, 2003
Figure 129: The decision-making process for brands of suntan lotions, oils and creams among 15-19-year-old girls, by age group, 2003
Figure 130: The decision-making process for brands of selected haircare products among 15-19-year-old girls, by age group, 2003
Figure 131: Monthly expenditure on haircare products among 15-19-year-old girls, 2003
Figure 132: The decision-making process for brands of shower gels and deodorants among 15-19-year-old girls, by age group, 2003
Figure 133: The decision-making process for brands of perfume and bodysprays among 15-19-year-old girls, by age group, 2003
Figure 134: Expenditure on bottles of perfume among 15-19-year-old girls, 2003
Figure 135: Purchaser of make-up for 15-19-year-old girls, by age group, 2003
Figure 136: Monthly expenditure on make-up products among 15-19-year-old girls, 2003
Figure 137: The decision-making process for brands of facial skincare products among 15-19-year-old boys, by age group, 2003
Figure 138: The decision-making process for brands of suntan lotions, oils and creams among 15-19-year-old boys, by age group, 2003
Figure 139: The decision-making process for brands of haircare products among 15-19-year-old boys, by age group, 2003
Figure 140: The decision-making process for brands of shaving products among 15-19-year-old boys, by age group, 2003
Figure 141: The decision-making process for brands of shower gels and deodorants among 15-19-year-old boys, by age group, 2003
Figure 142: The decision-making process for brands of aftershave/male fragrances among 15-19-year-old boys, by age group, 2003
THE FUTURE
The missing link
Increased impulse
The future of unisex
Waking up to the potential
Broadening the base
FORECAST
Overall market to grow
Figure 143: Forecast of the UK cosmetics and toiletries, at current prices, 2004-09
Make-up dynamism
Figure 144: Forecast of selected cosmetics and toiletries, at current prices, 2004-09
Facing the future
Soap segmentation
Body talk
Figure 145: Forecast of selected cosmetics and toiletries, at current prices, 2004-09
The new boys’ toys
Hair growth
Retailers should do more in order to capture sales
Figure 146: Forecast of the UK cosmetics and toiletries, at 2004 prices, 2004-09
Factors incorporated in forecast