Table of Contents
Executive Summary
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- Overview
- The Black haircare market poised to grow to $2 billion on regimen alone
- Regimen product overview
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- Figure 1: Estimated total expenditures and forecast, by Black consumers, by regimen segment, at current prices, 2014-24
- Key takeaways
- 1. Market growth driven by regimen-focused products
- 2. Protective styles will be the next big thing
- 3. Moderate at-home haircare skills yield expected (but not fully satisfying) results
- The issues and opportunities
- Product collection use focused on conditioners and styling products
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- Figure 2: Multi-outlet sales of Black haircare regimen products, by leading haircare companies, rolling 52 weeks 2018 and 2019
- Natural hair is the norm, but protective styles evolve as a preferred style
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- Figure 3: Hairstyles worn within the last year – females, by relaxed and protective styles, 2016-19
- Alternative, natural products are complicated to use
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- Figure 4: Alternative haircare product use, June 2019
- Products work as expected because they are formulated just for them
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- Figure 5: Haircare brand preferences, June 2019
- There is a gap between skill and confidence in their looks
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- Figure 6: Haircare skills and perceptions of Hairstyles, June 2019
- What it means
The Market – What You Need to Know
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- Black consumers account for one out of five total haircare dollars spent
- Modest spending growth expected within regimen sales
- Haircare brand looks to impact policy
- Mainstream companies and retailers look to Black consumers to drive growth
Market Size and Forecast
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- Regimen focused collections drive the Black haircare market
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- Figure 7: Expenditures and fan chart forecast expenditures by Black consumers for shampoo, conditioner, and styling products, at current prices, 2014-24
- Figure 8: Historical and forecast expenditures by Black consumers for shampoo, conditioner, and styling products, at current prices, 2014-24
- Black consumer regimen sales equal one fifth of the general market
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- Figure 9: regimen haircare expenditure estimate share by category, total and Black, 2018
Market Breakdown
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- Haircare regimen sales grow at a steady pace
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- Figure 10: Expenditures by Black consumers on haircare regimen products, by segment, at current prices, 2017-19
- Shampoo forecast reflects steady use of product collections
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- Figure 11: Estimated and fan chart forecast expenditures by Black consumers for shampoo, at current prices, 2014-24
- Conditioner sales reflect treatment and styling use
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- Figure 12: Estimated and fan chart forecast expenditures by Black consumers for conditioners, at current prices, 2014-24
- Figure 13: Cantu shea butter hair mask, 2019
- Styling forecast mixed – signals cannibalization from conditioners
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- Figure 14: Estimated and fan chart forecast expenditures by Black consumers for styling products, at current prices, 2014-24
- Hair color will have a market so long as consumers cover gray
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- Figure 15: Estimated and fan chart forecast expenditures by Black consumers for hair color, at current prices, 2014-24
- Relaxers sales continue to plummet to niche status
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- Figure 16: Estimated and fan chart forecast expenditures by Black consumers for relaxers, at current prices, 2014-24
Market Perspective
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- Dove, politicians join forces to ban discrimination of natural hair
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- Figure 17: Dove Crown Act twitter advertising with influencer Ty Alexander, July 2019
Market Factors
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- Mainstream companies double down on Black haircare market with acquisitions and new products
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- Figure 18: Suave Naturals Twitter Advertising, May-June 2019
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- Figure 19: Head and Shoulders Royal Oils video, January-February 2019
- Figure 20: Sally’s Beauty Supply/P&G My Black is Beautiful Facebook and online advertising, June 2019
Key Players – What You Need to Know
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- Consumer spending on anchor products grow
- Shea Moisture retains 19% of consumer spending in the category
- Cantu eclipses L’Oréal’s second place spot
- All texture brands create a space and market for Black consumers
- Alternative ingredients on brands’ and retailers’ radar
- Increased prevalence of protective styles prompts product innovation
Black Haircare Company Manufacturer Sales
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- Anchor conditioner and styling products continue to grow
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- Figure 21: Multi-outlet sales of Black haircare regimen products, by leading black haircare companies, rolling 52 weeks 2018 and 2019
- At-home chemical haircare products fall as expected
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- Figure 22: Multi-outlet sales of Black haircare relaxers and hair color, by leading black haircare companies, rolling 52 weeks 2018 and 2019
- Shea Moisture is the clear sales leader, Cantu moves up to second place
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- Figure 23: Multi-outlet sales of Black haircare products, by leading Black haircare companies, Rolling 52 weeks 2018 and 2019
- Figure 24: SheaMoisture/Target Bamboo Charcoal collection, online banner ad, February 2019
- Figure 25: SheaMoisture Raw Shea Butter Facebook ad, March 2019
- Cantu product efficacy pays off in shampoo category
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- Figure 26: Multi-outlet sales of shampoo, by leading Black haircare companies and brands, rolling 52 weeks 2018 and 2019
- Spending on natural and traditional brands yield mixed results
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- Figure 27: Multi-outlet sales of conditioner, by leading Black haircare companies and brands, rolling 52 weeks 2018 and 2019
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- Figure 28: Jamaican Mango & Lime advertising, January – February 2019
- Cantu maintains styling category lead while new brand moves up to the big leagues
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- Figure 29: Multi-outlet sales of styling products, by leading Black haircare companies and brands, rolling 52 weeks 2018 and 2019
- All relaxer brands experience sales declines
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- Figure 30: Multi-outlet sales of relaxer products, by leading Black haircare companies and brands, rolling 52 weeks 2018 and 2019
- Covering gray hair remains popular – for now
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- Figure 31: Multi-outlet sales of hair color products, by leading Black haircare companies and brands, rolling 52 weeks 2018 and 2019
What’s Working?
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- Brands move toward inclusive product offerings for all textures
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- Figure 32: Multi-outlet sales of select all texture haircare products, by companies and brands, rolling 52 weeks 2018 and 2019
- Figure 33: Maui Moisture video ad, May 2019
- Black haircare influencers impact consumer behavior
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- Figure 34: Cantu instructional video, “My Long Lasting Twist-Out”, 2019
- Figure 35: Cantu instructional video, “My Bomb Blowout”, 2019
What’s Struggling?
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- Traditional brands can’t shake off their relaxer heritage
What’s Next?
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- Retailers and brands offer natural product alternatives
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- Figure 36: Cantu Apple Cider Vinegar and Tea Tree Shampoo, February 2019
- Figure 37: Revlon/Colomer – Creme of Nature Clay and Charcoal Facebook Advertising, July 2019
- Figure 38: Aztec Secret Indian Healing Clay in Target beauty section, March 2019
- New product launches address natural haircare underneath protective styles
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- Figure 39: Hairstyles worn within the last year – females, by relaxed and protective styles, 2016-19
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- Figure 40: Girl+ Hair Introductory video to Under Hair Care, 2019
- Figure 41: PDC Brands’ Cantu Apple Cider Vinegar Root Rinse, December 2018
The Consumer – What You Need to Know
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- Hairstyle preferences cause shift in consumer segments
- Natural, textured style wearers have greater flexibility in their choices
- Alternative ingredient product use in nascent stage
- Black-targeted haircare products are preferred to ensure efficacy
- Most Black consumers can maintain their hair, but believe that they look presentable, not great
Black Haircare Segments
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- Growing importance of protective styles impact female segments
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- Figure 42: Black female haircare segmentation, June 2019
- Natural Nina represents a small segment of natural women
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- Figure 43: Demographic profile of Natural Nina haircare segment, June 2019
- Trendy Tonya’s preference for protective styles is becoming the norm
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- Figure 44: Demographic profile of Trendy Tonya haircare segment, June 2019
- As Relaxed Regina ages, she prefers what’s familiar
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- Figure 45: Demographic profile of Relaxed Regina haircare segment, June 2019
- Image is everything for Adventurous Ashley
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- Figure 46: Demographic profile of Adventurous Ashley haircare segment, June 2019
- Men prefer simple, yet groomed styles
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- Figure 47: Black male haircare segmentation, June 2019
- Handsome Henry stays groomed from head to toe
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- Figure 48: Demographic profile of Handsome Henry haircare segment, June 2019
- Stylish Steve wears varied styles just like his peers
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- Figure 49: Demographic profile of Stylish Steve haircare segment, June 2019
- Classic Carl’s grooming extends only to natural products
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- Figure 50: Demographic profile of Classic Carl haircare segment, June 2019
Hair Texture
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- Hair type helps Black women navigate the category
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- Figure 51: Hair texture – females, June 2019
- Men are not as hair engaged as women
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- Figure 52: Hair texture – males, June 2019
Hairstyles Worn
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- Natural is the standard, but styles within can vary
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- Figure 53: Hairstyles worn within the last three years, June 2019
- Women stick to the same look, but will experiment with protective styles
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- Figure 54: Hairstyles worn within the last three years – females, by last time worn, June 2019
- Young women more likely to alternate between natural and protective styles
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- Figure 55: Hairstyles worn in the past three years, by female haircare segments, June 2019
- A simple low-cut fade is the style of choice for most men
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- Figure 56: Hairstyles worn in the past three years, by male haircare segments, June 2019
Alternative Haircare Product Usage
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- Consumers looking for magic in the bottle turn to alternative products
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- Figure 57: Alternative haircare product use, June 2019
- Protective styles require the most maintenance
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- Figure 58: Alternative haircare product use – females, by select hairstyles worn, June 2019
- Multi-functional natural products limited by difficulty in use
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- Figure 59: Alternative haircare product use – females, by count of product types, June 2019
- Men keep it simple and stick to formulated products
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- Figure 60: Alternative haircare product use – males, June 2019
Haircare Brand Preferences
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- Black consumers trust and use products made specifically for them
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- Figure 61: Haircare brand preferences, June 2019
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- Figure 62: Black haircare price points, 2014-19
- Product function is universal, but quality and performance tied to outcomes
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- Figure 63: Haircare brand preferences, by female haircare segments, June 2019
- Engaged men trust that products will work with little regard to brands
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- Figure 64: Haircare brand preferences, by male haircare segments, June 2019
Haircare Skills and Experimentation
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- Most women can create a presentable hairstyle on their own
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- Figure 65: Haircare skills and experimentation frequency – females, June 2019
- Women stick to a familiar process, even if highly skilled
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- Figure 66: Experimentation frequency – females, by haircare skills, 2019
- Most men wear a low-maintenance style that requires basic skills
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- Figure 67: Haircare skills and experimentation frequency – males, June 2019
Perceptions of Hairstyles
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- Some look their best most of the time…others look presentable
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- Figure 68: Perceptions of hairstyles, June 2019
- As women abandon relaxers, some remain self-conscious
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- Figure 69: Perceptions of hairstyles – females, by select hairstyles worn, June 2019
- Men with styled natural hair like the look, but express some self-doubt
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- Figure 70: Perceptions on hairstyles – males, by select hairstyles worn, June 2019
- Confidence tied to skill level and self-perception
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- Figure 71: Perceptions of hairstyles, by female haircare segments, June 2019
- In their own words
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- Figure 72: Personal hair styling “must have” products and tools, May 2019
Appendix – Data Sources and Abbreviations
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- Data sources
- Sales data
- Fan chart forecast
- Consumer survey data
- Consumer qualitative research
- Abbreviations and terms
- Abbreviations
- Terms
Appendix – The Market
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- Figure 73: Expenditures by Black consumers for shampoo, conditioner, and styling products, at current prices, 2014-24
- Figure 74: Expenditures by Black consumers for shampoo, conditioner, and styling products, at inflation-adjusted prices, 2014-24
- Figure 75: Expenditures by Black consumers for shampoo, conditioner, and styling products, by segment, at current prices, 2014-24
- Figure 76: Expenditures by Black consumers for haircare products, by segment, at current prices, 2017 and 2019
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- Figure 77: Expenditures by Black consumers on shampoo, at current prices, 2014-24
- Figure 78: Expenditures by Black consumers on shampoo, at inflation-adjusted prices, 2014-24
- Figure 79: Expenditures by Black consumers on conditioner, at current prices, 2014-24
- Figure 80: Expenditures by Black consumers on conditioner, at inflation-adjusted prices, 2014-24
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- Figure 81: Expenditures by Black consumers on styling products, at current prices, 2014-24
- Figure 82: Expenditures by Black consumers on styling products, at inflation-adjusted prices, 2014-24
- Figure 83: Expenditures of Black consumers on hair color, at current prices, 2014-24
- Figure 84: Expenditures of Black consumers on hair color, at inflation-adjusted prices, 2014-24
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- Figure 85: Expenditures by Black consumers on relaxers, at current prices, 2014-24
- Figure 86: Expenditures by Black consumers on relaxers, at inflation-adjusted prices, 2014-24
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Appendix – Key Players
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- Figure 87: Multi-outlet sales of Black haircare products, by leading haircare companies, rolling 52 weeks 2018 and 2019
- Figure 88: Multi-outlet sales of shampoo, by leading haircare companies, rolling 52 weeks 2018 and 2019
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- Figure 89: Multi-outlet sales of conditioner by leading haircare companies, rolling 52 weeks 2018 and 2019
- Figure 90: Multi-outlet sales of styling products by leading haircare companies, rolling 52 weeks 2018 and 2019
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- Figure 91: Multi-outlet sales of relaxers products by leading haircare companies, rolling 52 weeks 2018 and 2019
- Figure 92: Multi-outlet sales of hair color products by leading haircare companies, rolling 52 weeks 2018 and 2019
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- Figure 93: Multi-outlet sales of select all texture haircare products, by companies and brands, rolling 52 weeks 2018 and 2019
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