Table of Contents
Issues in the Market
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- Main themes
- Definition
Insights and Opportunities
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- Enduring quality versus fast fashion
- Broader but deeper
- Online opportunity
- Convincing the unconvinced
Fast Forward Trends
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- Trend 1: The black diamond life
- Definition
- What’s next?
- Trend 2: Trading up, trading down, trading over
- Definition
- What’s next?
Market in Brief
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- The market – size and shape
- Adult designer market
- Children’s designer market
- The market – 2008
- Economic pressures
- Consumer sentiment and influences
- Issues
- Counterfeiting and eBay
- Currency movements
- Retail channels
- Online
- Eco/ethical
- The future
Internal Market Environment
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- Key points
- Fashion
- Ethical/eco issues
- Image
- Market changes
- Online
- Counterfeiting
- Dressing well
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- Figure 1: Agreement with selected lifestyle statements, by gender, 2001, 2003, 2005 and 2007
Broader Market Environment
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- Key points
- Population trends favouring affluent ABs
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- Figure 2: Adult population trends, by socio-economic group, 2003-13
- Population changes favour designer clothing
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- Figure 3: Age structure of the UK population, 2003-13
- Designer market not insulated from lower growth PDI
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- Figure 4: Trends in PDI and consumer expenditure, 2003-13
- Media and celebrity influence
- Global tourism
Competitive Context
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- Key points
- ‘I’d rather buy…’
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- Figure 5: UK retail sales (including VAT) of watches, handbags, precious metal jewellery and health & beauty treatments, 2003-08
- Health and beauty treatments
- Handbags
- Watches and precious metal jewellery
Strengths and Weaknesses in the Market
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- Strengths
- Weaknesses
Who’s Innovating?
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- Key points
- Expanding into new markets – Chanel
- Expanding into new markets – Cavalli
- A new take on celebrity
- ASOS builds and grows
- Fashion + sports = more customers?
- First moves into Eco
- Armani on Second Life
- Marc Jacobs and Victoria Beckham
Market Value and Forecast
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- Key points
- The market
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- Figure 6: Consumer spending, all adult and children’s garments and designerwear (outer and underwear), incl VAT, 2003-08
- Adult designer clothing
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- Figure 7: Consumer spending, all adult garments and designerwear (outer and underwear), 2003-08
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- Figure 8: Consumer spending on childrenswear (outer and underwear) and children’s designerwear, incl VAT, 2003-08
- Growth to be slowing in 2008
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- Figure 9: Consumer spending, adult designerwear, current and constant 2003 prices, 2003-08
- The future
- Forecast
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- Figure 10: Forecast, consumer spending on designer wear and clothing, at current prices, 2003-13
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- Figure 11: Forecast, consumer spending on designer wear and clothing, at current prices, 2003-13
- Figure 12: Forecast, consumer spending on designer wear and clothing, at constant prices, 2003-13
- Segment forecast
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- Figure 13: Forecast, consumer spending on designer wear, by segment, at current prices, 2003-13
- Figure 14: Forecast of total UK consumer spending on designer wear, by segment, at constant 2008 prices, 2003-13
- Women’s designer wear still strongest
- Factors used in the forecast
Brand Elements
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- Brand map
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- Figure 15: Attitudes and usage of designer clothing brands, June 2008
- Ralph Lauren
- What the brand is trying to achieve
- What the consumer thinks
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- Figure 16: Attitudes towards the Ralph Lauren brand, June 2008
- Sean John
- What the brand is trying to achieve
- What the consumer thinks
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- Figure 17: Attitudes towards the Sean John brand, June 2008
- Paul Smith
- What the brand is trying to achieve
- What the consumer thinks
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- Figure 18: Attitudes towards the Paul Smith brand, June 2008
- Chanel
- What the brand is trying to achieve
- What the consumer thinks
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- Figure 19: Attitudes towards the Chanel brand, June 2008
- Burberry
- What the brand is trying to achieve
- What the consumer thinks
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- Figure 20: Attitudes towards the Burberry brand, June 2008
- Giorgio Armani
- What the brand is trying to achieve
- What the consumer thinks
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- Figure 21: Attitudes towards the Giorgio Armani brand, June 2008
- Brand qualities of designer clothing brands
- Armani is top of the pops in positive personality traits
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- Figure 22: Brand qualities of various designer clothing brands, June 2008
- Experience of designer clothing brands
- Ralph Lauren is the most popular brand, followed by Giorgio Armani
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- Figure 23: Brand experience of various designer clothing brands, June 2008
- Brand consideration for designer brands
- Giorgio Armani and Ralph Lauren have best retention and consideration
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- Figure 24: Brand consideration of various designer clothing brands, June 2008
- Brand momentum for designer brands
- Stella McCartney is setting the pace with most energy
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- Figure 25: Brand momentum of various designer clothing brands, June 2008
- Brand motivation for designer brands
- Armani, Lauren and Smith are most associated with clothing
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- Figure 26: Brand motivaton for various designer clothing brands, June 2008
- Brand satisfaction for designer clothing brands
- Giorgio Armani is tops for consumer satisfaction
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- Figure 27: Brand satisfaction for various designer clothing brands, June 2008
- Brand commitment to designer clothing brands
- Armani and Chanel are worth paying a bit extra for
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- Figure 28: Commitment to various designer clothing brands, June 2008
- Round up
Segment Performance
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- Key points
- Womenswear is buoyant
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- Figure 29: Consumer spending, total adult and women’s designerwear (outer and underwear), incl VAT 2003-08
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- Figure 30: Consumer spending, women’s garments and designerwear (outer and underwear), incl VAT, 2003-08
- Men’s designerwear outperforms
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- Figure 31: Consumer spending, total adult and men’s designerwear (outer and underwear), incl VAT, 2003-08
- Menswear’s share
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- Figure 32: Consumer spending, men’s garments and designerwear (outer and underwear), incl VAT, 2003-08
- Children’s designer clothing
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- Figure 33: Consumer spending on childrenswear (outer and underwear) and children’s designerwear, incl VAT, 2003-08
Companies and Products
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- Key points
- Major players
- Aeffe Fashion Group
- Armani Group
- Burberry
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- Figure 34: Burberry, product categories as a percentage of sales, sales growth and category development, 2008
- Calvin Klein
- Christian Dior
- Dolce & Gabbana
- Gucci Group/PPR
- Gucci
- Yves Saint Laurent
- Balenciaga
- Alexander McQueen
- Stella McCartney
- LVMH
- Donna Karan
- Celine
- Kenzo
- Givenchy
- Marc Jacobs
- Pucci
- Paul Smith
- Prada
- Ralph Lauren
- Tommy Hilfiger
- Valentino Fashion Group: Hugo Boss and Valentino
- Vivienne Westwood
- Other designers
Brand Communication and Promotion
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- Key points
- Advertising spend increases
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- Figure 35: Main monitored media advertising expenditure, by designer brands, 2003-07
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- Figure 36: Internet advertising expenditure by designer advertisers, 2003-07
Channels to Market
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- Key points
- Overview
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- Figure 37: UK retail value sales of total designerwear (men's and women's), by outlet type, 2003-07
- Department stores
- Specialist multiples
- Mono-brand stores
- Specialist designer multiples (examples)
- Fashion multiples with designer offers
- Independents
- Internet
The Consumer – What They Buy
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- Key points
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- Figure 38: What they buy, April 2008
- Little change in garment buying trends
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- Figure 39: What they buy, 2006 and 2008
- Young men are key buyers of designerwear
- Not just a question of affluence
- Sports clothing and underwear the broadest appeal
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- Figure 40: What they buy, by gender, age and socio-economic group, April 2008
- Formalwear and womenswear bought more by affluent
- The over-45s are the non-purchasers
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- Figure 41: What they buy, by gender, age and socio-economic group, April 2008
The Consumer – Attitudes to Buying Designer Clothes
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- Key points
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- Figure 42: Attitudes to designer shopping, April 2008
- Women more negative than men
- Broad appeal of gifting/treating
- Affluent may be more considered purchasers
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- Figure 43: Attitudes to shopping for designer clothing, by gender, age and socio-economic group, April 2008
The Consumer – What They Think of Designer Clothing
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- Key points
- More convincing is needed
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- Figure 44: What they think of designer clothing, April 2008
- High street winning on style
- Differentiation – quality, occasions and longevity
- Eco/Fairtrade opportunities?
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- Figure 45: What they think of designer clothing, by gender, age and socio-economic group, April 2008
- Playing on the emotions
- Fakes not such a big issue
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- Figure 46: What they think of designer clothing, by gender, age and socio-economic group, April 2008
Consumer Typologies
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- Key points
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- Figure 47: Consumer typologies, April 2008
- Group 1: Unconvinced (25%)
- Who are the Unconvinced?
- Group 2: Apathetic (53%)
- Who are the Apathetic?
- Group 3: Fans (22%)
- Who are the Fans?
- Fans have the most purchasing tendencies – but the Unconvinced are an opportunity
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- Figure 48: Typologies by attitudes to designer clothing, May 2008
Appendix: Internal Market Environment
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- Figure 49: Agreement with the statement ‘It is important to me to look well-dressed’, men, by age and socio-economic group, 2001-07
- Figure 50: Agreement with the statement ‘It is important to me to look well-dressed’, women, by age and socio-economic group, 2001-07
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- Figure 51: Agreement with the statement ‘I like to keep up with the latest fashions’, men, by age and socio-economic group, 2001-07
- Figure 52: Agreement with the statement ‘I like to keep up with the latest fashions’, women, by age and socio-economic group, 2001-07
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- Figure 53: Agreement with the statement ‘A designer label improves a person’s image’, men, by age and socio-economic group, 2001-07
- Figure 54: Agreement with the statement ‘A designer label improves a person’s image’, women, by age and socio-economic group, 2001-07
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Appendix: What They Buy
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- Figure 55: What they buy, by Mintel’s special groups, region, ACORN groups, technology users, internet usage, daily newspapers, commercial TV viewing and supermarket used, April 2008
- Repertoire
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- Figure 56: Designer items bought, by what items, May 2008
- Figure 57: Designer items bought, by gender, age and socio-economic group, May 2008
- Repertoire demographics
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- Figure 58: Designer items bought, by ACORN group, commercial TV viewing, region, daily newspaper, technology users, internet usage and supermarket used, May 2008
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Attitudes to Buying Designer Clothes – Detailed Consumer Demographics
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- Figure 59: Attitudes to buying designerwear, by Mintel’s special groups, region, ACORN groups, technology users, internet usage, daily newspapers, commercial TV viewing and supermarket used, April 2008
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- Figure 60: Attitudes to buying designerwear, by Mintel’s special groups, region, ACORN groups, technology users, internet usage, daily newspapers, commercial TV viewing and supermarket used, April 2008
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What They Think of Designer Clothing – Detailed Consumer Demograhics
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- Figure 61: What they think of designer clothing, Mintel’s special groups, region, ACORN groups, technology users, internet usage, daily newspapers, commercial TV viewing and supermarket used, April 2008
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- Figure 62: What they think of designer clothing, Mintel’s special groups, region, ACORN groups, technology users, internet usage, daily newspapers, commercial TV viewing and supermarket used, April 2008
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Appendix: Consumer Typologies
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- Figure 63: Typologies by gender, age, socio-economic group, ACORN group, commercial TV viewing, region, daily newspapers, technology users, internet usage and supermarket used, May 2008
- Cluster formation
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- Figure 64: Typologies by attitudes to designer clothing, May 2008
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- Figure 65: Typologies byhow many designer clothing items bought, May 2008
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- Figure 66: Typologies by what type of designer clothing bought, May 2008
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