Table of Contents
Executive Summary – Europe – The Market
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- Spending on clothing and footwear
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- Figure 2: Europe: Spending on clothing and footwear, including VAT, 2013-19
- Figure 3: Europe: Spending on clothing, including VAT, 2013-19
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- Figure 4: Europe: Spending on clothing and footwear as % all consumer spending, 2013-19
- Figure 5: Europe: Spending on clothing and footwear as % all consumer spending, 2019
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- Figure 6: Europe: change in clothing and footwear’s share of all consumer spending, 2013-19
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- Figure 7: Europe Big Five: Forecast change in clothing and footwear’s share of all consumer spending, 2019-20
- Spending per capita
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- Figure 8: Europe: Spending on clothing and footwear per capita, including VAT, 2019
- Clothing and footwear specialists’ sales
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- Figure 9: Europe: clothing and footwear specialists, sales, 2014-19
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- Figure 10: Europe Big Five: clothing and footwear specialists, forecast sales, 2020-25
- Figure 11: Europe Big Five: clothing and footwear specialists, forecast sales growth, 2015-25
- Specialists relative to all spending
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- Figure 12: Europe: Sales by clothing and footwear specialists as % all spending on clothing and footwear, 2019
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- Figure 13: Europe: Change in specialist clothing and footwear retailers’ “share” of all spending on clothing and footwear, 2013 vs. 2019
- Online
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- Figure 14: Europe: purchasing of clothing, footwear or sports goods online in the last 12 months, 2013-19
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- Figure 15: Europe: purchasing of clothing, footwear or sports goods online in the last 12 months, 2019
- Online sales
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- Figure 16: Europe: Top 5 economies, online sales of clothing and footwear, including VAT, 2019
- Leading retailers
- Our focus on clothing specialists
- The importance of online grows with COVID-19
- Inditex still comfortably in the lead
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- Figure 17: Europe: Leading clothing specialists, sales, 2015/16-2019/20
- Figure 18: Europe: Leading clothing specialists, outlets, 2015/16-2019/20
- Figure 19: Europe: Leading clothing specialists, sales per outlet, 2015/16-2019/20
- Market shares
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- Figure 20: Leading clothing specialists, share of all spending on clothing and footwear, 2015/16-2019/20
Executive Summary – Europe – The Consumer
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- The research
- Where people shop
- In-store vs online
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- Figure 21: Europe: Channels used for buying clothes in the last 12 months, June 2020
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- Figure 22: Europe: Clothing shoppers who have bought online and not in-store, June 2020
- Leading online pureplayers
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- Figure 23: Europe: All online, Amazon and Zalando shoppers for clothing, June 2020
- Leading retailers
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- Figure 24: Europe: Top five most shopped at clothing retailers, June 2020
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- Figure 25: Europe: Top five most shopped at clothing retailers, June 2020
- Clothes shopping behaviours relating to COVID-19
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- Figure 26: Europe: Changes in behaviour due to the COVID-19 pandemic, June 2020
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- Figure 27: Europe: Ranking of changes in behaviour due to the COVID-19 pandemic, by country, June 2020
Executive Summary – Europe – Launch Activity and Innovation
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- Retailers repurpose factories as part of COVID-19 relief effort
- Louis Vuitton makes hand sanitisers
- Salvatore Ferragamo manufacture face masks and hand sanitisers
- Retailers help consumers shop safely
- Gucci launches virtual shopping service in Italy
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- Figure 28: Gucci live shopping service, 2020
- Face mask innovation
- Adidas launches face masks in charity collaboration
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- Figure 29: Adidas face mask, 2020
- Resale and rental
- Vestiaire Collective launches pre-owned deals as part of its Vestiaire Vibes campaign
- Zalando launches preowned category
- H&M launches Sellpy in Germany
- Cos launches resale platforms
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- Figure 30: Cos Resell platform, 2020
- Sustainability
- Monki launches upcycles capsule collection
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- Figure 31: Monki upcycled capsule collection, 2020
- Popups
- Shoeholics opens physical store
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- Figure 32: Shoeaholics pop-up on Oxford Street, 2020
- Dr Martens revisits its German origins with new pop-up
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- Figure 33: Dr Marten’s pop-up at German department store Breuninger, 2020
- Jérôme Dreyfuss opens pop-up store in Paris
- Launches and store openings
- Salvatore Ferragamo launches new online boutique
- Zalando expands ‘Connected retail’ to Sweden, Poland and Spain
- Primark opens in Poland
- Retailers expand offering online
- Inditex launches budget brand Lefties online
- H&M’s Arket to launch on Zalando
The Impact of COVID-19 on Clothing Retailing
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- Short, medium and long-term impact on the sector
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- Figure 34: Short, medium and long term impact of COVID-19 on Clothing retailing, October 2020
- Opportunities and threats
- COVID-19 brings online to the forefront
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- Figure 35: Decathlon’s ‘scan & go’ service, 2020
- Providing a feeling of shopping in-store from home
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- Figure 36: Gucci’s personalised virtual shopping, June 2020
- Athleisure versus formalwear
- How COVID-19 will reshape the industry
- Sustainability in fashion gains further relevance
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- Figure 37: Zalando announces ‘Pre Owned’ category, 2020
- Risk of lower profitability due to discounts and promotions
- Discounters strengthen their position in clothing
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- Figure 38: Aldi's new fashion campaign in Germany, 2020
- The forecast for clothing retailing improving from 2021
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- Figure 39: Europe Big Five: Total specialist clothing retailers’ sales and forecast, 2015-25
- Figure 40: Europe Big Five: Total specialist clothing retailers’ sales and forecast, by country, 2015-25
- The impact of COVID-19 on consumer behaviour across Europe
- Concern about exposure to COVID-19 steady but showing signs of increasing
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- Figure 41: Europe: Those extremely worried about the risk of being exposed to COVID-19, March-October 2020*
- Many cutting back on non-essential purchases
- Time-limiting store visits places premium on in-store navigation
- Many consumers reluctant to use cash
- A big switch to online
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- Figure 42: Europe: Changes to shopping behaviour since the start of the COVID-19 outbreak, September/October 2020*
- Clothing slips down the spending agenda
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- Figure 43: Europe: Net balance* of expected spending on selected items in the next month, September/October 2020**
- Trying on clothing in-store remains an issue
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- Figure 44: Europe: people who would feel uncomfortable trying on clothing in-store, September/October 2020*
- People not keen on handling/touching products in-store
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- Figure 45: Europe: people who would feel uncomfortable handling/touching products in-store, September/October 2020*
- How the crisis is impacting on key consumer segments
- Women and older age groups most concerned about the virus
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- Figure 46: Europe: Those extremely worried about the risk of being exposed to COVID-19, by gender and age, September/October 2020*
- Women and older age groups also trying to limit time in-store
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- Figure 47: Europe: consumers trying to limit the time they spend in-store, by gender and age, September/October 2020*
- Youngest age groups most likely to be shopping more online
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- Figure 48: Europe: consumers shopping more online, by age and gender, September/October 2020*
- COVID-19: Market context
- UK
- France
- Germany
- Italy
- Spain
France
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- Overview
- Key issues covered in this Report
- Areas covered in this Report
- Executive summary
- The market
- The economy
- Consumer spending
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- Figure 49: France: Consumer spending on clothing and footwear (incl. VAT), 2015-20 (f)
- Sector size and forecast
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- Figure 50: France: Specialist clothing retailers, sales (excluding VAT), 2014-20
- Channels of distribution
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- Figure 51: France: Estimated distribution of spending on clothing and footwear by channel, 2019
- Companies and brands
- Key metrics
- Market shares
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- Figure 52: France: Leading specialist clothing retailers, sales as % all spending on clothing and footwear, 2019
- Online
- The consumer
- How they shop for clothes
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- Figure 53: France: Channels used for buying clothes in the last 12 months, June 2020
- Where they shop for clothing
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- Figure 54: France: retailers used for buying clothing in the last 12 months, June 2020
- Clothes shopping behaviours relating to COVID-19
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- Figure 55: France: clothing related behavioural changes during the Covid-19 epidemic, June 2020
- Issues and insights
- Sports retailers look set to gain most from COVID-19
- How will online shape the fashion sector in the coming years?
- The market – Key takeaways
- France’s economy faces a contraction of 9% in 2020
- Fashion spending is hit hard by COVID-19
- Clothing specialists may be one of the worst hit retail sectors by COVID-19
- Specialists in decline as online eats into their market share
- Consumer spending
- The economy
- Decline in clothing market looks set to continue
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- Figure 56: France: Consumer spending on clothing and footwear (including VAT), 2015-20
- Sector size and forecast
- Clothing specialists look set to be among the worst hit by COVID-19
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- Figure 57: France: Specialist clothing and footwear retailers, sales (excluding VAT), 2015-20
- Figure 58: France: Specialist clothing and footwear retailers, forecast sales (excluding VAT), 2020-25
- Inflation
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- Figure 59: France: Consumer prices * of clothing and footwear, Annual % change, 2015-19
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- Figure 60: France: Consumer prices * of clothing and footwear, Annual % change, January 2019 –August 2020
- Channels of distribution
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- Figure 61: France: Estimated distribution of spending on clothing and footwear by channel, 2019
- Companies and brands – Key takeaways
- COVID-19 was the final straw for some
- Inditex now the largest player after collapse of La Halle
- A fragmented market
- Online boosted during lockdowns
- Amazon leads online but domestic retailers also popular
- Leading players
- Clear winners emerge
- Market leader Inditex bucks the trend
- Primark on the rise
- Zalando and other online-only players
- Old school retailers struggle
- La Halle
- Kidiliz
- Camaïeu
- Others
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- Figure 62: France: Leading specialist clothing retailers, sales (excl. VAT), 2015-19
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- Figure 63: France: Leading specialist clothing retailers, outlets, 2015-19
- Sales per outlet
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- Figure 64: France: Leading specialist clothing retailers, sales per outlet, 2015-19
- Market shares
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- Figure 65: France: Leading specialist clothing retailers, sales as % all spending on clothing and footwear, 2015-19
- Online
- Online activity
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- Figure 66: France: Broadband connections (percentage of households), 2014-19
- Shopping for clothing online
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- Figure 67: France: Online purchasing, 2015-19
- Online market size
- Leading online players
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- Figure 68: France: Leading retailers’ estimated clothing and footwear sales online, 2018-19
- The consumer – Key takeaways
- Online shopping is growing most amongst younger men
- Sports retailers take pole position
- Kiabi and H&M are the leading specialists
- Clothing purchases a low priority for most during COVID-19
- How they shop for clothes
- Penetration of online is growing most amongst men
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- Figure 69: France: Channels used for buying clothes in the last 12 months, June 2020
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- Figure 70: France: Online shopping for clothes in the last 12 months by gender, June 2020 and June 2019
- Figure 71: France: Online shopping for clothes in the last 12 months by age and gender, June 2020
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- Figure 72: France: Channels used for buying clothes in the last 12 months, June 2020
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- Figure 73: France: device used for online clothes purchases by age and gender, June 2020
- Where they shop for clothes
- Store-based specialists remain dominant
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- Figure 74: France: Stores used to shop for clothing, combined nets, June 2020
- Clothing specialists
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- Figure 75: France: Specialist retailers used for buying clothing in the last 12 months, June 2020
- Customer profiles
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- Figure 76: France: Specialist retailers used for buying clothing in the last 12 months, June 2020
- Non-specialists
- Sports retailers win first prize
- Amazon less important than in other markets
- One-third buy clothes in supermarkets and hypermarkets
- Department stores on the up
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- Figure 77: France: Non-Specialist retailers used for buying clothing in the last 12 months, June 2020
- Clothes shopping behaviours relating to COVID-19
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- Figure 78: France: clothing shopping behaviours during the COVID-19 epidemic, June 2020
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- Figure 79: France: clothing shopping behaviours during the COVID-19 epidemic, by gender, June 2020
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- Figure 80: France: clothing shopping behaviours during the COVID-19 epidemic amongst women, June 2020
- Clothes shopping behaviours by retailer used
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- Figure 81: France: Selected clothing shopping behaviours during the COVID-19 epidemic by retailer shopped, June 2020
- Appendix – Research methodology, data sources and abbreviations
- Abbreviations
- Data sources
Italy
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- Overview
- Key issues covered in this Report
- Areas covered in this Report
- Executive summary
- The market
- Consumer spending
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- Figure 82: Italy: annual percentage change in consumer spending on clothing and footwear, 2015-20
- Sector size and forecast
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- Figure 83: Italy: Specialist clothing retailers’ sales (excluding VAT), 2014-20
- Channels of distribution
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- Figure 84: Italy: Estimated distribution of spending on clothing and footwear by channel, 2019
- Companies and brands
- Key metrics
- Market shares
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- Figure 85: Italy: Leading specialist clothing retailers’ sales as % all spending on clothing and footwear, 2019
- Online
- The consumer
- How they shop for clothes
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- Figure 86: Italy: Channels used for buying clothes, June 2019 vs June 2020
- Retailers bought from
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- Figure 87: Italy: Specialist retailers used for buying clothes in the past 12 months, June 2020
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- Figure 88: Italy: Non-specialist retailers used for buying clothes in the past 12 months, June 2020
- Clothes shopping behaviours relating to COVID-19
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- Figure 89: Italy: clothing shopping behaviours during the COVID-19 pandemic, June 2020
- Issues and insights
- What lessons can Italian clothing and footwear retailers learn from COVID-19?
- How can clothing specialists prosper when consumer confidence is weak?
- The market – Key takeaways
- Italian economy was weak before COVID-19
- Weak economy hits discretionary spending harder
- Specialists disproportionately affected by impact of COVID-19
- Specialists set to lose market share in 2020
- Consumer spending
- The economy
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- Figure 90: Italy: Consumer spending on clothing and footwear (incl. VAT), 2015-20
- Retailer and consumer confidence
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- Figure 91: Italy: Consumer and retailer confidence levels, September 2019-September 2020
- Sector size and forecast
- Retail sales
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- Figure 92: Italy: Specialist clothing retailers, sales (excl. VAT), 2015-20
- Figure 93: Italy: Specialist clothing retailers, forecast sales (excl. VAT), 2020-25
- Inflation
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- Figure 94: Italy: Consumer prices* of clothing and footwear, Annual % change, 2015-19
- Figure 95: Italy: Consumer prices of clothing and footwear, Annual % change, January 2019 –August 2020
- Channels of distribution
- Specialists lose out during lockdown
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- Figure 96: Italy: Estimated distribution of spending on clothing and footwear by channel, 2019
- Companies and brands – Key takeaways
- Inditex leads the way
- OVS least prepared for online growth
- A fragmented market
- Online still small in clothing but main players are gearing up
- Leading players
- Inditex leads the way
- OVS slow to develop online
- Others
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- Figure 97: Italy: Leading specialist clothing retailers, sales (excl. VAT), 2015-19
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- Figure 98: Italy: Leading specialist clothing retailers, outlets, 2015-19
- Sales per outlet
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- Figure 99: Italy: Leading specialist clothing retailers, sales per outlet, 2015-19
- Market shares
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- Figure 100: Italy: Leading specialist clothing retailers, sales as % all spending on clothing and footwear, 2015-19
- Online
- Online activity
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- Figure 101: Italy: Broadband connections (percentage of households), 2015-19
- Shopping for clothing online
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- Figure 102: Italy: Online purchasing, 2015-19
- Online market size
- Leading online players
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- Figure 103: Italy: Leading retailers’ estimated clothing sales online, 2019
- The consumer – Key takeaways
- Most Italians still like to shop in-store
- Big jump in online buying among younger men
- PCs and laptops still favoured device for online orders
- Strength of OVS brand comes from universality of its appeal
- Online-only players well-placed to capitalise on migration online
- Nearly a quarter of customers are worried about visiting clothing stores
- How they shop for clothes
- Channels used for buying clothes
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- Figure 104: Italy: Channels used for buying clothes, June 2019 vs June 2020
- Big jump in online purchasing among men, particularly younger men
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- Figure 105: Italy: Online channel used for buying clothes by gender and age, June 2019 vs June 2020
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- Figure 106: Italy: Channels and device used for buying clothes, detailed breakdown, June 2020
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- Figure 107: Italy: Channels used for buying clothes, by age group, June 2020
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- Figure 108: Italy: Channels and device used for buying clothes, detailed breakdown, by age, June 2020
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- Figure 109: Italy: Channels used for buying clothes, by presence of children in the household, June 2020
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- Figure 110: Italy: In-store versus online clothes shopping behaviour in the past 12 months, June 2020
- Where they shop for clothes
- Specialists
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- Figure 111: Italy: Specialist retailers used for buying clothes in the past 12 months, June 2020
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- Figure 112: Italy: Specialist retailers used for buying clothes in the past 12 months, by gender, June 2020
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- Figure 113: Italy: Specialist retailers used for buying clothes in the past 12 months, by age, June 2020
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- Figure 114: Italy: Specialist retailers used for buying clothes in the past 12 months, by channels used for buying clothes, June 2020
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- Figure 115: Italy: Specialist retailers used for buying clothes in the past 12 months, by specialist retailers used for buying clothes, June 2020
- Non-specialists
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- Figure 116: Italy: Non-specialist retailers used for buying clothes in the past 12 months, June 2020
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- Figure 117: Italy: Non-specialist retailers used for buying clothes in the past 12 months, by gender, June 2020
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- Figure 118: Italy: Non-specialist retailers used for buying clothes in the past 12 months, by age, June 2020
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- Figure 119: Italy: Non-specialist retailers used for buying clothes in the past 12 months, by channels used for buying clothes, June 2020
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- Figure 120: Italy: Customer profile by clothing specialist and non-specialist shopped at, by age and income, June 2020
- Clothes shopping behaviours relating to COVID-19
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- Figure 121: Italy: clothing shopping behaviours relating to COVID-19, June 2020
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- Figure 122: Italy: clothing shopping behaviours relating to COVID-19, by age, June 2020
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- Figure 123: Italy: clothing shopping behaviours relating to COVID-19, by age, June 2020
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- Figure 124: Italy: clothing shopping behaviours relating to COVID-19, by specialist clothing retailers shopped at, June 2020
- Appendix – Data sources, Aabbreviations and supporting information
- Abbreviations
- Data sources
Spain
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- Overview
- Key issues covered in this Report
- Areas covered in this Report
- Executive summary
- The market
- The economy
- Consumer spending
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- Figure 125: Spain: Consumer spending on clothing and footwear (incl. VAT), 2015-20
- Sector size and forecast
- Channels of distribution
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- Figure 126: Spain: Estimated distribution of spending on clothing and footwear by channel, 2019
- Companies and brands
- Key metrics
- Market shares
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- Figure 127: Spain: Leading specialist clothing retailers, sales as % all spending on clothing and footwear, 2019
- Online
- The consumer
- How they shop for clothing
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- Figure 128: Spain: Channels used for buying clothes in the last 12 months, June 2020
- Where they shop for clothing
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- Figure 129: Spain: retailers used for buying clothing in the last 12 months, June 2020
- Clothes shopping behaviours relating to COVID-19
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- Figure 130: Spain: clothing shopping behaviour during the COVID-19 epidemic, June 2020
- Issues and insights
- The impact of COVID-19 on Spanish clothing retail
- Value will be increasingly relevant
- Clothing needs are changing
- Digital is imperative
- Sustainability in fashion could be a by-product of the pandemic
- The market – Key takeaways
- The hit to Spain’s economy from COVID-19 is the worst of the Eurozone
- Fashion spending will be hit hard by COVID-19
- Online will not offset lost store-based sales for most specialists
- Fashion specialists capture 70% of clothing and footwear spending
- Consumer spending
- The economy
- Steep decline in spending on fashion expected for 2020
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- Figure 131: Spain: Consumer spending on clothing and footwear (including VAT), 2015-20
- Sector size and forecast
- Clothing retailers look set to among the worst hit by COVID-19
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- Figure 132: Spain: Specialist clothing retailers, sales (excluding VAT), 2015-20
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- Figure 133: Spain: Specialist clothing retailers, forecast sales (excluding VAT), 2020-25
- Inflation
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- Figure 134: Spain: Consumer prices * of clothing and footwear, Annual % change, 2015-19
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- Figure 135: Spain: Consumer prices of clothing and footwear, Annual % change, January 2019 –July 2020
- Channels of distribution
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- Figure 136: Spain: Estimated distribution of spending on clothing and footwear by channel, 2019
- Companies and brands – Key takeaways
- Inditex’s agile business model helps it retain its leading position
- Inditex and foreign retailers are growing fastest as market consolidates
- Leading retailers are well established online and investing in its growth
- Leading players
- Inditex’s business model helps it maintain its lead
- UK’s Primark continues to thrive despite no online presence
- Winners and losers in 2019
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- Figure 137: Spain: Leading specialist clothing retailers, sales (excl. VAT), 2016-19
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- Figure 138: Spain: Leading specialist clothing retailers, outlets, 2016-19
- Figure 139: Spain: Leading specialist clothing retailers, sales per outlet, 2016-19
- Market shares
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- Figure 140: Spain: Leading specialist clothing retailers, sales as % all spending on clothing and footwear, 2016-19
- Online
- Internet usage
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- Figure 141: Spain: Broadband connections (percentage of households), 2014-19
- Online market size
- Leading online players
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- Figure 142: Spain: Leading retailers’ estimated clothing and footwear sales online, 2016-19
- The consumer – Key takeaways
- Online gaining momentum
- M-commerce important for younger shoppers
- Store-based specialists and sports stores most popular shopping destination
- Primark’s popularity suggests shift towards budget-priced clothes
- Amazon now the most popular non-specialist clothing destination
- Fashion buyers prioritise essential items over clothing since COVID-19
- How they shop for clothes
- Online gaining share
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- Figure 143: Spain: Channels used for buying clothes in the last 12 months, June 2020
- Men accelerate shift to buying fashion online
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- Figure 144: Spain: Online shopping for clothes in the last 12 months by age and gender, June 2020
- Purchasing on a laptop/desktop most popular, but younger buyers like m-commerce
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- Figure 145: Spain: Channels and device used for buying clothes in the last 12 months, June 2020
- Where they shop for clothes
- Store-based specialists the most popular destination, but buyers migrating online
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- Figure 146: Spain: Stores used to shop for clothing, combined nets, June 2020
- Clothing specialists
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- Figure 147: Spain: Specialist retailers used for buying clothing in the last 12 months, June 2020
- Customer profiles
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- Figure 148: Spain: Specialist retailers used for buying clothing in the last 12 months, June 2020
- Non-specialists
- Usage of Amazon skyrockets on back of boosted fashion appeal
- Sports good retailers well positioned to capitalise on growing popularity of athleisure
- El Corte Inglés turbocharges online order fulfilment proposition
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- Figure 149: Spain: Non-Specialist retailers used for buying clothing in the last 12 months, June 2020
- Clothes shopping behaviours relating to COVID-19
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- Figure 150: Spain: clothing shopping behaviour during the COVID-19 epidemic, June 2020
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- Figure 151: Spain: clothing shopping behaviour during the COVID-19 epidemic, by gender, June 2020
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- Figure 152: Spain: clothing shopping behaviour during the COVID-19 epidemic amongst women, by age, June 2020
- Clothes shopping behaviours by retailer used
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- Figure 153: Spain: Selected clothing shopping behaviours during the COVID-19 epidemic by retailer shopped, June 2020
- Appendix – Data sources, abbreviations and supporting information
- Abbreviations
- Data sources
UK
-
- Overview
- Key issues covered in this Report
- COVID-19: market context
- Economic and other assumptions
- Products covered in this Report
- Executive Summary
- Impact of COVID-19 on clothing category
-
- Figure 154: Short, medium and long-term impact of COVID-19 on clothing, 3 November 2020
- The market
- Appetite for clothing declines dramatically
-
- Figure 155: Consumer spending on clothing and accessories, 2015-25 (prepared on 5 November 2020)*
- Specialists see deepest declines
-
- Figure 156: Retail sales through specialist clothing retailers, 2015-25 (prepared on 3 November 2020)
- Online clothing sales jump in 2020
-
- Figure 157: Online sales of clothing and accessories, 2015-20
- Companies and brands
- Next remains leading specialist
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- Figure 158: Leading specialist retailers: compound annual growth in revenues, 2015-19
- M&S loses trust, while Next and Primark seen as innovative
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- Figure 159: Attitudes towards and usage of selected clothing brands, February-September 2020
- Adspend revives following lockdown slump
- The consumer
- People feel uncomfortable trying on clothes in-store
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- Figure 160: Changing priorities since COVID-19, 10-17 September 2020
- Surge in sportswear purchasing
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- Figure 161: Outerwear items purchased in the last three months, June 2019-September 2020
- Consumers more likely to have bought online than in-store
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- Figure 162: How consumers have bought clothes for themselves in the last 12 months, August 2020
- Amazon competes for lead with M&S
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- Figure 163: Retailers used to purchase clothing in the last 12 months, net of retailers used to purchase in-store and/or online, August 2020
- Buying new clothes becomes less of a priority
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- Figure 164: Changes in clothes shopping behaviour since COVID-19, August 2020
- Value for money dominates
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- Figure 165: Most important factors when choosing which clothes to buy, August 2020
- Young prefer to buy from brands that promote diversity
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- Figure 166: Clothes shopping behaviour, August 2020
- Adapting stores in a time of COVID
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- Figure 167: Clothes shopping behaviour in-store once clothes stores have reopened following COVID-19 lockdown, August 2020
- Issues and Insights
- Impact of COVID-19 on the clothing market
- Who are the winners and losers in clothing?
- Adapting to a new fashion retail reality
- The Market – Key Takeaways
- Dramatic decline in clothing sales in 2020
- Gradual recovery
- Specialists see deepest declines
- Consumer confidence remains volatile
- Market Size and Forecast
- COVID-19 leads to a drop in appetite for clothing
-
- Figure 168: Short, medium and long-term impact of COVID-19 on clothing, 3 November 2020
- Lockdown
- Re-emergence
- Recovery
- Dramatic decline in clothing sales in 2020
-
- Figure 169: Consumer spending on clothing and accessories, 2015-25 (prepared on 5 November 2020)*
-
- Figure 170: Consumer spending on clothing and accessories, at current prices, 2015-25
- Continued anxiety impacts footfall
- Gradual recovery
- Market drivers and assumptions
- Learnings from the last recession
-
- Figure 171: Consumer spending on clothing and accessories, 2008-12
- Forecast methodology
- Market Segmentation
- Underwear market gains share
-
- Figure 172: Estimated breakdown of consumer spending on clothing and accessories, 2020
- Figure 173: Estimated % breakdown of consumer spending on clothing and accessories, 2018-20
- Sector Size and Forecast
- Specialists see deepest declines
-
- Figure 174: Retail sales through specialist clothing retailers, 2015-25 (prepared on 3 November 2020)
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- Figure 175: Retail sales through specialist clothing retailers, at current prices, 2015-25
- Polarised recovery
- Market drivers and assumptions
- Clothing sales through specialist clothing retailers
-
- Figure 176: Sales of clothing and accessories through clothing retailers, 2015-20
- Figure 177: Clothing specialists’ share of consumer spending on clothing and accessories, 2015-20
- Channels of Distribution
- COVID-19 increases shifts in where people shop for clothing
- Specialists hardest-hit sector of COVID-19 pandemic
- Department stores also underperforming
- Growing sectors
-
- Figure 178: Estimated distribution of consumer spending on clothing, by type of retailer, 2019
- Figure 179: Estimated distribution of consumer spending on clothing, by type of retailer, 2015-19
- Market Drivers
- Clothing falls into deflation
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- Figure 180: Consumer price inflation, 2009-19
- Footwear inflation drops further in September 2020
-
- Figure 181: Consumer price inflation, August 2019-September 2020
- Real wage growth falling
-
- Figure 182: Real wages growth: wages growth vs inflation, January 2016-August 2020
- Consumer confidence remains volatile
-
- Figure 183: Mintel financial confidence tracker, January 2018-August 2020
- Consumers saving more
-
- Figure 184: Trends in what extra money is spent on, September 2019 and September 2020
- Rates of obesity high among women
-
- Figure 185: Overweight and obesity prevalence in UK population, by gender, 2014-18
- Increase in young will benefit clothing market
-
- Figure 186: Trends in the age structure of the UK population, 2019-29
- Consumers spending more time online due to COVID-19
-
- Figure 187: Online activities done in the last three months on any device, June 2019 and June 2020
- Online
- Online clothing sales grow by 26% in 2020
-
- Figure 188: Online sales of clothing and accessories, 2015-20
- Where they shop online
-
- Figure 189: Retailers used to purchase clothing online in the last 12 months, August 2020
- Companies and Brands – Key Takeaways
- Next remains leading specialist but Primark surpasses M&S
- Online players benefit from shift online
- Face masks present new category for retailer
- ASOS stands out as the most trusted pureplay
- Leading Specialists
- Next remains leading specialist but Primark surpasses M&S
-
- Figure 190: Leading specialist retailers: net revenues, 2015-19
- Clothing specialists show polarised performance over the past five years
-
- Figure 191: Leading specialist retailers: compound annual growth in revenues, 2015-19
- COVID-19 forced struggling retailers to close stores
-
- Figure 192: Leading specialist retailers: Outlet numbers, 2015-19
- Sales per outlet
-
- Figure 193: Leading specialist retailers: estimated annual sales per outlet, 2015-19
- Sales area and sales densities
-
- Figure 194: Leading specialist retailers: total sales area, 2015-19
- Figure 195: Leading specialist retailers: estimated annual sales per square metre, 2015-19
- Operating profit and margins
-
- Figure 196: Leading specialist retailers: operating profits, 2015-19
- Figure 197: Leading specialist retailers: operating margins, 2015-19
- Leading Non-specialists
- Sports retailers
- Department stores
- Supermarkets are major players
- Online retailers
-
- Figure 198: Leading non-specialists: estimated clothing and footwear revenues, 2015-19
- Market Shares
-
- Figure 199: Leading retailers’ estimated share of spending on clothing and footwear, 2015-19
- Change in market shares
-
- Figure 200: Leading clothing retailers, change in share of clothing spending, 2015-19
- Launch Activity and Innovation
- Retailers strengthen ecommerce
- Hush reveals new ecommerce website with mobile-first design
- Mango launches virtual chatbot
- Morrisons launches dedicated website for own clothing brand Nutmeg
- Retailers help consumers shop safely
- Missguided teams up with InPost UK to offer contact-free click-and-collect service
- Phase Eight offers in-store personal styling appointments
- ASOS accelerates AR clothes fitting service
- Diesel unveils digital showroom Hyperoom
-
- Figure 201: Diesel’s digital selling platform and showroom, 2020
- Sustainability
- Timberland’s first sustainability concept store
-
- Figure 202: Timberland’s sustainability store on Carnaby Street, 2020
- Selfridges launches Project Earth
-
- Figure 203: The Restory at Selfridges, 2020
- Connolly launches upcycled collection pop-up at Portobello Market
- Puma unveils new Dope Dye Technology
-
- Figure 204: The Puma X CSM collection, 2020
- Resale and rental fashion
- Liberty enters rental market in collaboration with My Wardrobe HQ
-
- Figure 205: My Wardrobe HQ pop-up at Liberty, 2020
- Selfridges partners with HURR Collective in first designer fashion rental collection
- Oxfam opens second-hand shop in Selfridges for #SecondHandSeptember
-
- Figure 206: Oxfam pop-up at Selfridges, 2020
- Pop-ups
- Lone Design Club reveals shoppable window
-
- Figure 207: Lone Design Club shoppable window, 2020
- Burberry launches digital and in-store ‘Animal Kingdom’ pop-ups
-
- Figure 208: Burberry’s Animal Kingdom collection, 2020
- Ted Baker teams up with Creative Mentor Network to celebrate store reopening
-
- Figure 209: Ted Baker ‘Nice To See You, To See You Nice’ slogan, 2020
- Face-covering launches
- Burberry to launch luxury face masks costing £90
-
- Figure 210: Burberry’s face masks, 2020
- Sainsbury’s Tu sells face coverings for adults and children
-
- Figure 211: Sainsbury’s Tu family pack of face masks, 2020
- Christopher Kane launches free face mask craft packs
-
- Figure 212: Christopher Kane free face masks, 2020
- Brands launch matching masks for outfits
-
- Figure 213: Designer Samantha Cameron’s matching dress and face mask for brand Cefinn, 2020
- Retailers repurpose factories as part of COVID-19 relief effort
- Mulberry delivers PPE to hospitals
- Reiss repurposes supply chain to produce face masks
- Mackintosh uses factory in Nelson to produce nurse uniforms
- Primark donates to NHS
- M&S providing pyjamas for NHS workers
- Kurt Geiger donates shoes to NHS staff and first month of store profits from 15 June
- Net-A-Porter helps deliver essentials to those in need
- Launches and store openings
- Morrisons opens Nutmeg clothing standalone store
- Morrisons launches website for Nutmeg
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- Figure 214: Morrisons Nutmeg store, 2020
- Forever 21 enters UK with online store
- Missguided launches lockdown-inspired range
-
- Figure 215: Missguided lockdown-inspired range, 2020
- Advertising and Marketing Activity
- Sector advertising spend down 8.5% year-on-year in 2019
-
- Figure 216: Total recorded above-the-line advertising expenditure on clothing and accessories, 2015-19
- Advertising spend back to pre-pandemic level following COVID-19 lockdown slump
-
- Figure 217: Total recorded above-the-line advertising expenditure on clothing and accessories, by month, January-July 2019 and 2020
- Shein is the biggest spender despite spending half of what it did in 2018
-
- Figure 218: Total recorded above-the-line, online, display and direct mail total advertising expenditure on clothing and accessories, by leading spenders, 2015-19
- Outdoor and TV share of advertising spend increasing as dominant digital begins to decline
-
- Figure 219: Total recorded above-the-line advertising expenditure percentage on clothing, by media type, total market, 2019
- 2020 campaign highlights
- Shein’s first out-of-home advertising campaign
- Marks & Spencer digitally focused athleisure campaign and first ever denim TV advert
- Matalan new brand positioning campaign
- Freemans’ new website, app and exclusive clothing collection
- John Lewis advertises its spring/summer season on TV for the first time ever
- Brand Research
- Brand map
-
- Figure 220: Attitudes towards and usage of selected brands, February-September 2020
- Key brand metrics
-
- Figure 221: Key metrics for selected brands, February-September 2020
- Brand attitudes: ASOS seen as innovative
-
- Figure 222: Attitudes, by brand, February-September 2020
- Supermarket clothing brands seen as accessible
-
- Figure 223: Brand personality – Macro image, February-September 2020
- JD Sports viewed as stylish and responsive
-
- Figure 224: Brand personality – Micro image, February-September 2020
- Brand analysis
- M&S loses trust, while Next and Primark seen as innovative
- Supermarket clothing brands seen as offering good value
- ASOS stands out as the most trusted pureplay
- Gap seen as overrated
- The Consumer – Key Takeaways
- People are spending less on fashion
- Younger generations favour buying online, but also visit stores
- Amazon competes for lead with M&S
- New clothes and fashion trends become less of a priority
- Value for money dominates
- Impact of COVID-19 on Consumer Behaviour
- Over a quarter are worse off since COVID-19…
-
- Figure 225: Change in financial situation since COVID-19 outbreak, 25 June-7 August 2020
- …with women most concerned
-
- Figure 226: Fears around the negative impact COVID-19 will have on people’s lives, by gender, 18-24 June 2020
- People are spending less on fashion…
-
- Figure 227: Consumer spending habits since COVID-19, 10-17 September 2020
- …but there has been a notable increase in online purchases
-
- Figure 228: People shopping more online since COVID-19, 16 April-17 September 2020
- People feel uncomfortable trying on clothes in-store
-
- Figure 229: Changing priorities since COVID-19, 10-17 September 2020
- Growing usage of face masks
-
- Figure 230: Face masks and scrunchies, September 2020
-
- Figure 231: Agreement with usage of face masks/coverings in different situations, 10-17 September 2020
- What They Buy
- Appetite for fashion falls
-
- Figure 232: Fashion items purchased in the last three months, June 2019-September 2020
- Surge in sportswear purchasing
-
- Figure 233: Outerwear items purchased in the last three months, June 2019-September 2020
- Most consumers only buy one or two items
-
- Figure 234: Number of clothing items purchased on most recent shopping trip, June 2019-September 2020
- Big decline in consumers spending £75 and over
-
- Figure 235: Trends in amount spent on clothing, June 2019-September 2020
- How They Shop
- Consumers more likely to have bought online than in-store
-
- Figure 236: How consumers have bought clothes for themselves in the last 12 months, August 2020
- Younger generations favour buying online, but also visit stores
-
- Figure 237: How consumers have bought clothes for themselves in the last 12 months, by generation, August 2020
- Young women continue to shop, while young men cut back
-
- Figure 238: People who have bought clothes for themselves in-store and/or online or have not bought clothes in the last 12 months, by gender and age, August 2020
- Where They Shop
- Specialists most popular, but pureplays growing
-
- Figure 239: Types of retailers used to purchase clothing in the last 12 months, by channel, August 2020
- Amazon competes for lead with M&S
-
- Figure 240: Retailers used to purchase clothing in the last 12 months, net of retailers used to purchase in-store and/or online, August 2020
- Primark retains popularity despite lack of online site
-
- Figure 241: Retailers used to purchase clothing in the last 12 months, by channel, August 2020
- People shop at fewer retailers
-
- Figure 242: Repertoire of retailers used to purchase clothing in the last 12 months, by channel, August 2020
- Customer Profiles
- Next sees increase in male customer base
-
- Figure 243: Retailer customer profile, by gender, August 2020
- ASOS loses youngest shoppers
-
- Figure 244: Retailer customer profile, by age, August 2020
- Figure 245: Retailer customer profile, by socio-economic group, August 2020
- Changes to Clothes Shopping since COVID-19
- Buying new clothes becomes less of a priority
-
- Figure 246: Changes in clothes shopping behaviour since COVID-19, August 2020
- Younger Millennials shun trendy fashion
-
- Figure 247: Changes in clothes shopping behaviour since COVID-19, by generation, August 2020
- Baby Boomers worry about visiting stores
-
- Figure 248: Changes in clothes shopping behaviour since COVID-19, by generation, August 2020
- Most Important Factors when Buying Clothes
- Value for money dominates
-
- Figure 249: Most important factors when choosing which clothes to buy, August 2020
- Young online shoppers want more inclusive and diverse models
-
- Figure 250: Most important factors when choosing which clothes to buy, by how people have bought clothes in the last 12 months, August 2020
- Clothes Shopping Behaviour
- Younger generations cut back the most…
-
- Figure 251: Clothes shopping behaviour, August 2020
- Figure 252: Agreement with statement ‘Concerns about money in the last 12 months have caused me to cut back on buying clothes’, by generation, August 2020
- …but prefer to buy from brands that support causes and promote diversity
-
- Figure 253: Agreement with statements ‘I prefer to buy clothes from brands that support important causes than those that don’t’ and ‘I would be put off buying clothes from a retailer that doesn’t promote diversity’, by generation, August 2020
- Young buy clothes to look good online
- Parents of under-18s buy more clothes on discount
-
- Figure 254: Clothing Retailing – CHAID – Tree output, August 2020
- Methodology
-
- Figure 255: Clothing retailing – CHAID – Table output, August 2020
- Clothes Shopping In-store at a Time of COVID-19
- Comfort with in-store shopping depends on age
-
- Figure 256: Clothes shopping behaviour in-store once clothes stores have reopened following COVID-19 lockdown, August 2020
- Adapting stores in a time of COVID
-
- Figure 257: Agreement with statements ‘I have visited a clothing store’, ‘I feel comfortable going shopping for clothes in-store’ and ‘I think social distancing is being done properly in stores’ now that stores have reopened, by age, August 2020
- Women think it is pointless to visit stores without fitting rooms
- Appendix – Data Sources, Abbreviations and Supporting Information
- Abbreviations
- Consumer research methodology
- Appendix – Market/Sector Size and Forecast
- Forecast methodology
Arcadia
-
- What we think
- Arcadia closes more stores and plans restructure post-COVID-19…
- …Westfield Stratford is to close after lease expires…
- …but Topshop on Oxford Street to remain open after £310 million refinancing
- Arcadia furloughs 14,500 staff and execs face 50% pay cuts
- Snapchat teams up with adidas and Topshop in new ecommerce initiative
- Company background
- Company performance
-
- Figure 258: Arcadia Group: Group financial performance, 2014/15-2018/2019
- Figure 259: Arcadia: Outlet data, 2014/15-2018/19
- Retail offering
C&A
-
- What we think
- New store concept to tempt customers through the door
- New concession format to replace no longer sustainable standalone stores
- A leader in fashion sustainability
- Company background
- Company performance
-
- Figure 260: C&A: Estimated group sales performance, 2015/16-2019/20
- Figure 261: C&A: Estimated outlet data, 2015/16-2019/20
- Retail offering
H&M Hennes & Mauritz
-
- What we think
- New hyper-local store concept
- Custom-made perfect fit jeans
- Online expansion giving more customers more options to access its brands
- Livestreaming shopping events
- Fashion rental and re-sale point towards an increased focus on sustainability
- Company background
- Company performance
-
- Figure 262: H&M Hennes & Mauritz: Group financial performance, 2014/15-2018/19
-
- Figure 263: H&M Hennes & Mauritz: Outlet data, 2014/15-2018/19
- Retail offering
Grupo Inditex
-
- What we think
- A global business
- Upsizing stores
- Online a big opportunity for growth
- Technology at the heart of the business
- Flexible and responsive approach to production helped it cope with COVID
- Sustainability is key to future
- Where now?
- Company background
- Company performance
-
- Figure 264: Grupo Inditex: Group financial performance, 2015/16-2019/20
-
- Figure 265: Grupo Inditex: Sales by brand, 2019/20
- Figure 266: Grupo Inditex: Outlet data, 2015/16-2019/20
-
- Figure 267: Grupo Inditex: Outlet numbers by brand, 2019/20
- Retail offering
Marks & Spencer
-
- What we think
- Clothing delivered with groceries
- Drive-through fashion service
- Online instalment payment option to help spread the cost of buying fashion
- Wider choice of brands to broaden customer appeal
- Shifting focus away from formalwear range to contemporary everyday fashions
- Eradicates alpaca wool from products
- Company background
- Company performance
-
- Figure 268: Marks & Spencer: Group financial performance, 2015/16-2019/20
-
- Figure 269: Marks & Spencer: Outlet data, 2015/16-2019/20
- Retail offering
Next Group
-
- What we think
- Location of stores has been key
- Greater shift towards online
- Product mix benefited from bias to sports and loungewear
- Growing focus on beauty
- Next ups its ante on underwear
- Where next
- Company background
- Company performance
-
- Figure 270: Next Group: Group financial performance, 2014/15-2019/20
-
- Figure 271: Next Group: Outlet data, 2014/15-2019/20
- Retail offering
Primark/Penneys
-
- What we think
- Missing out on online sales costs the brand millions in lost revenue
- A must-visit destination for consumers shopping for clothes in-store
- Cut-price fashion
- New eco-conscious fashion, homeware and beauty collection
- First ever sportswear collaboration
- Company background
- Company performance
-
- Figure 272: Primark/Penneys: Group financial performance, 2015/16-2019/20
-
- Figure 273: Primark/Penneys: Outlet data, 2015/16-2019/20
- Retail offering
River Island
-
- What we think
- ‘Buy now, pay later’ online option
- Needs to do more to get customers back through the door
- Commits to being more transparent
- Exclusive childrenswear collaboration with TV star and personality Samantha Faiers
- Own-brand beauty offering
- Company background
- Company performance
-
- Figure 274: River Island Holdings Limited: Group financial performance, 2015-19
- Figure 275: River Island Holdings Limited: Outlet data, 2015-19
- Retail offering
TJX International (TK Maxx Europe)
-
- What we think
- Turbocharging the in-store experience to better compete with online
- Discounted brands and designer labels to tempt value-conscious fashionistas
- Tapping into the flourishing Russian off-price retail market
- A sustainable business model of sorts
- Company background
- Company performance
-
- Figure 276: TJX International (TK Maxx Europe): Group financial performance, 2015/16-2019/20
-
- Figure 277: TJX International (TK Maxx Europe): Outlet data, 2015/16-2019/20
- Retail offering
Zalando
-
- What we think
- Taking the guesswork out of size and fit
- Customers can now tailor their experience by following their favourite brands
- Boosting sustainability credentials with eco-friendly offering and second-hand platform
- Expanding luxury ranges to meet demand among younger consumers
- Company background
- Company performance
-
- Figure 278: Zalando: Group financial performance, 2015-19
-
- Figure 279: Zalando: key metrics, 2017-H1 2020
- Retail offering
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