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Underwear - UK - March 2010
International Reports (Academic USA), Fashion High Street: UK Price: £1500 / $2310 / €1793
Contents
Issues in the Market
Market in Brief
Internal Market Environment
Broader Market Environment
Strengths and Weaknesses in the Market
Competitive Context
Market Size and Forecast
Market Segment Performance
Market Share
Companies and Products
Channels of Distribution
Retail Advertising and Promotion
Types of Underwear Purchased
Retailers and Brands
Appendix – Internal Market Environment
Appendix – Broader Market Environment
Appendix – Retail Advertising and Promotion
Appendix – Types of Underwear Purchased
Appendix – Retailers and Brands
Latest news updates to this report
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About this report
  • In a challenging economic environment, the £2.57 billion underwear market has held up reasonably well, although there have been some casualties – notably Intimas.
  • Although people might be cutting back on their underwear purchasing, just 3m men and 1m women did
  • not buy new underwear in 2009.
  • Women account for more than 70% of underwear spend because they buy a greater number of items. women buy underwear for a host of reasons or occasions, whereas men stick largely to replacement buys.
  • Replacement might be the key reason for buying underwear for more than 30m adults but 15m are prompted to buy new underwear by a price offer, such as a sale or a voucher.
  • More than 10m people buy underwear either on impulse (ie as a treat) or for a special occasion, such as going on holiday.
  • Own-brand dominates the underwear sector. Almost 20m people bought underwear from M&S compared to 13m from a supermarket and 12m from a value retailer. By contrast, 6m people wear Calvin Klein undies – the leading non-retail brand.
If you want more details about this particular report, please contact the Mintel information team on  +1 312-932-0400 in the U.S.,  +44 028-90-241-849 in Northern Ireland,  +353 048-90-241-849 in the Republic of Ireland or  +44 (0)20-7606-6000 in the UK and the rest of the world, or email info@mintel.com.
Key words and phrases within this report

Marks & Spencer; Asda; La Senza; Debenhams; Tesco; Primark; Ann Summers; Calvin Klein; Next; Figleaves; Bhs; Brands:; Product offer/brands; Wonderbra; Men’s underwear; Company overview; Financial performance; Morrisons; Sainsbury's; Topshop; Elle Macpherson; Pretty Polly; Advertising/marketing; Berlei; Triumph; Eveden; Agent Provocateur; Briefs; Long johns; Women’s underwear; George; Gossard; Sloggi; Waitrose; Hosiery; Topman; Arcadia Group; Knickerbox; Playtex; Everyman; Triumph International; Supermarkets; Value retailers; Price-motivated; Ultimo; Lingerie; Rigby & Peller; Matalan; Variety stores; Impulse buyers; Occasion-led buyers; Armani; Government Actuary’s Department; My money is my own; Debenham; Burton; Christmas; Dorothy Perkins; European; Ireland; John Lewis; Lion Capital; Clothing multiples; New Look; Specialist retailers; Selfridges; Replacement buyers; England; Cristiano Ronaldo; Jean Paul Gaultier; Simply Yours; VBS; YouTube; DD+; Fleur of England; Jockey; Ted Baker; Arcadia; Australia; BC1C2; Bendon; Brits; Chantelle; Courtaulds Textiles; DB Apparel UK Ltd; Design; Europe; Evans; Every Department; Fallon; Fantasie; Fauve; Freya; Freya Active; Goddess; Intimates; Oxford Street; Promotion; Retail Advertising; Secret Possessions
Contents

Issues in the Market

Main themes

Definition

Abbreviations

Market in Brief

The ‘essentials’ really are essential

Brighter spots

There are many positives

The market today

Own-label

Key buyers

Future prospects

Internal Market Environment

Key points

Fashion – the broader trends

Fashion – a real catwalk trigger

Glam it up

Does celebrity mean sales?

Figure 1: Examples of current or recent celebrity and designer associations, February 2010

Weight issues

Fitness and exercise

Figure 2: Adults participating in exercise and percentage of adults who are overweight, 2009

Eco awareness

Open to the world

The feelgood factor benefiting others

Broader Market Environment

Key points

Potential areas of opportunity

Figure 3: Trends in the age structure of the UK population, 2004-14

Some decline

Babies

Figure 4: Birth rate, 2004-14

My money is my own

Figure 5: Importance of employment and socio-economic group to sales of underwear, by gender, 2010
Figure 6: Trends in UK workforce and female employment, 2004-14

The aspirational buy

Figure 7: UK population, by socio-economic group, 2004-14

Are hard times almost at an end?

Figure 8: GDP, PDI, consumer expenditure and savings, at current prices, 2004-14

Strengths and Weaknesses in the Market

Strengths

Weaknesses

Competitive Context

Key points

Underwear compared to outerwear and footwear

Figure 9: UK retail value sales of men’s and women’s underwear, footwear and outerwear, 2004-09

Wants rather than needs

Market Size and Forecast

Key points

Underwear overview – sound if not sparkling

Figure 10: UK retail sales of underwear, by gender, 2004-14

Women are the mainstay

The future

A cautionary note

Factors used in the forecast

Market Segment Performance

Key points

Men’s underwear

Figure 11: UK retail value sales of men’s underwear, by type, 2004-14

Functionality

Socks – the basics

Shape and performance

A brief look at underpants

Long johns

Women’s underwear

Figure 12: UK retail value sales of women’s underwear, by type, 2004-14

The pricing context

Figure 13: Selected examples of value pricing in women’s underwear market, 2010

Sensuality, seduction and style

Figure 14: Selected examples of premium and luxury pricing in women’s underwear market, 2010

Mass market and niche

Bras for every occasion

Other lingerie

Hosiery

Briefs

Market Share

Key points

Brand shares in women’s lingerie

Figure 15: Brand shares in UK retail value sales of lingerie, 2008 and 2009

Brand shares in men’s underwear

Figure 16: Brand shares in UK retail value sales of men’s underwear, 2008 and 2009

Own-label gaining share

Companies and Products

Ann Summers/Knickerbox

Figure 17: Profile of Ann Summers website visitors, by age, January 2010
Figure 18: Ann Summers and Knickerbox, brands/products
Figure 19: Ann Summers, financial performance, 2003/04-2007/08

Arcadia Group

Figure 20: Profile of Arcadia website visitors, by age, January 2010
Figure 21: Arcadia Group, underwear brands/product
Figure 22: Arcadia Group, financial performance, 2004/05-2008/09

Courtaulds Textiles

Figure 23: Courtaulds Textiles, underwear brands/product

DB Apparel UK Ltd

Figure 24: DB Apparel, underwear brands/product

Debenhams

Figure 25: Debenhams underwear product and brands
Figure 26: Debenhams, financial performance, 2004/05-2008/09

Eveden

Figure 27: Eveden, underwear brands/products

Figleaves

Figure 28: Profile of Figleaves website visitors, by age, January 2010
Figure 29: Figleaves, products and brands
Figure 30: Figleaves, financial performance, 2003/04-2007/08

George at Asda

Figure 31: George at Asda, women’s underwear product/brands
Figure 32: Asda Group Ltd, financial performance, 2004-08

La Senza

Figure 33: La Senza products
Figure 34: La Senza, financial performance, 2004-08

Marks & Spencer

Figure 35: Marks & Spencer, products and brands
Figure 36: Marks & Spencer, financial performance, 2004/05-2008/09

Primark

Figure 37: Profile of Primark website visitors, by age, January 2010
Figure 38: Primark underwear products/brands
Figure 39: Primark, financial performance, 2004/05-2008/09

Triumph International

Figure 40: Triumph International, underwear brands/product

Other companies of note

Aubade

Bendon (Cullen Investments)

Blooming Marvellous

Chantelle

Hanro

Janet Reger

Jockey

MJM International

Palmers Textil AG

Panache

Pantherella

Rigby & Peller

Warnaco Group

Channels of Distribution

Key points

Figure 41: UK retail value sales of underwear, by outlet type, 2004-09

Variety stores

Value retailers

Clothing multiples

Department stores

Supermarkets

Specialist retailers

Figure 42: Examples of underwear specialists, 2010

Retail Advertising and Promotion

Key points

General spending trends

Figure 43: Main monitored media advertising expenditure on underwear and lingerie, stockings and tights, 2005-09
Figure 44: Main monitored media advertising expenditure on underwear and lingerie, stockings and tights, by month, 2009

The most visible brands

Figure 45: Main monitored media advertising expenditure on underwear and lingerie, stockings and tights, by top advertisers (ranked on 2009 spend), 2008 and 2009

The large and the small

Media choices

Figure 46: Adspend by media type, percentage of total, 2006-09

Below the line

Internet browsing habits

Figure 47: Visitors to underwear websites, February 2010
Figure 48: Visitors to Ann Summers, La Senza and Figleaves websites, by demographics, February 2010

Types of Underwear Purchased

Key points

Looking first at women’s buying

Figure 49: Underwear bought by women in the last 12 months, December 2009

Briefs – Top in the ‘bottoms’ market

A little improvement

Key buyer groups

Figure 50: Key demographic differences in most popular types of underwear bought by women, December 2009

Time to get your thermals out

And turning to men

Figure 51: Underwear bought by men in the last 12 months, December 2009
Figure 52: Key demographic differences in most popular types of underwear bought by men, December 2009

Broader overview

Presumed self-purchase

Figure 53: Trends in underwear purchase, by gender, 2005-09

Purchase for others

Figure 54: Trends in women’s purchase of men’s underwear and men’s purchase of women’s underwear, 2006-09

Who are the targets for gifts and everyday purchase?

Figure 55: Men’s and women’s expenditure on women’s and men’s underwear, by age and socio-economic group, 2009

Retailers and Brands

Key points

Retailer choices

Marks & Spencer still dominant but...

Figure 56: Shopper base of leading underwear retailers and brands, by age and affluence, December 2009
Figure 57: Similarities and differences in men’s and women’s underwear purchase, December 2009
Figure 58: Shops where consumers bought underwear in the last 12 months, by gender, December 2009

Age tells

Figure 59: Selected shops where consumers bought underwear in the last 12 months, by age, December 2009

Broad repertoire for most

Figure 60: Selected shops where consumers bought underwear in the last 12 months, by socio-economic group, December 2009

Brand choices

Figure 61: Brands of underwear worn by men, December 2009
Figure 62: Brands of underwear worn by women, December 2009

High level of fragmentation

Figure 63: Selected brands of underwear worn, by age and socio-economic group, December 2009

Appendix – Internal Market Environment

Figure 71: Selected forms of exercise done weekly or more often, by gender and age, July 2009
Figure 72: Further selected forms of exercise done weekly or more often, by gender and age, July 2009

Appendix – Broader Market Environment

Figure 74: Trends in the age structure of the UK population aged 10+, by gender, 2004-14

Appendix – Retail Advertising and Promotion

Figure 73: Main monitored media advertising expenditure on underwear and lingerie, stockings and tights, by top advertisers (ranked on 2009 spend), 2008 and 2009

Appendix – Types of Underwear Purchased

Figure 75: Lingerie items bought by women in the last 12 months, by demographics, 2009
Figure 76: Women’s expenditure on bras, by demographics, 2009
Figure 77: Men’s expenditure on underwear, by demographics, 2009
Figure 78: Women’s expenditure on men’s underwear, by demographics, 2009
Figure 79: Men’s expenditure on women’s underwear, by demographics, 2009
Figure 80: Most popular underwear bought by women in the last 12 months, by demographics, December 2009
Figure 81: Next most popular underwear bought by women in the last 12 months, by demographics, December 2009 (continued)
Figure 82: Underwear bought by men in the last 12 months, by demographics, December 2009

Appendix – Retailers and Brands

Figure 83: Most popular shops from where bought underwear in the last 12 months, by demographics, December 2009
Figure 84: Next most popular shops from where bought underwear in the last 12 months, by demographics, December 2009 (continued)

Brand recognition

Figure 85: Most popular brands of underwear, by demographics, December 2009
Figure 86: Next most popular brands of underwear, by demographics, December 2009 (continued)