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Clothing Retailing - UK - October 2009
Retail Intelligence: Europe, International Reports (Academic USA), Fashion High Street: UK Price: £1500 / $3000 / €2250
Contents
Issues in the Market
Market in Brief
Internal Market Environment
Broader Market Environment
Competitive Context
Strengths and Weaknesses in the Market
Sector Size and Forecast
Channels of Distribution
Retailer Competitor Analysis
Retail Advertising and Promotion
The Consumer – Where They Buy Clothing
Alexon Group
Arcadia Group
Aurora Fashions (formerly Mosaic Fashions)
Benetton Group
Bhs
Gap
Grupo Inditex UK
H&M Hennes & Mauritz
Mackays Stores Group
Mango
Marks & Spencer
Matalan
Monsoon
New Look
Next Group
Peacock Group
Primark/Penneys
River Island Clothing
TK Maxx
Appendix – Internal Market Environment
Appendix – Where They Buy Clothing
Latest news updates to this report
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  Clothing Retailing - Germany - October 2009
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About this report

There is more choice than ever before in the UK’s clothing mass-market. But it has been dominated by price for much of the last ten years, as cheaper sourcing from the Far East has facilitated the growth of value retailers.

This has increased competition and squeezed the middle-market players. And with youth unemployment rising fast, competition looks set to continue revolving around price for the foreseeable future.

This will exert further downward pressure on retailers’ margins and inhibit their ability to invest in new initiatives and stores. Not only that but it will make it hard for retailers to pass on the full price increases on imported goods.

But there is a glimmer of hope for the mid/upper mass market players. Over one in ten people in a survey commissioned especially for this report say they will spend more on clothing in the year ahead. But this figure rises to 22% of the ABC1 pre-/no family lifestage – a group that is less economically challenged and is more likely to be influenced by quality rather than low prices.

Main themes

  • How has the recession changed consumers’ shopping habits for clothing and are there key differences by demographic group?

  • Who have the retail winners and losers been as a result?

  • How have the under 25s, a key group for fashion, responded to the downturn and will their shopping habits change as youth unemployment rises.

  • How are the UK’s future demographic trends likely to impact the clothing market?

  • What are consumer’s future spending intentions on clothes?

  • How have clothing specialists performed relative to non-specialist competition and what part did the Internet play in this?

If you want more details about this particular report, please contact the Mintel information team on  +1 312-932-0400 in the U.S.,  +44 028-90-241-849 in Northern Ireland,  +353 048-90-241-849 in the Republic of Ireland or  +44 (0)20-7606-6000 in the UK and the rest of the world, or email info@mintel.com.
Key words and phrases within this report

Next; Primark; Bhs; New Look; Arcadia; Zara; Brands; Tesco; Benetton; Topshop; Financial performance; Mango; Topman; Monsoon; Gap; River Island; Matalan; Marks & Spencer; Asda; Peacocks; Pricing; TK Maxx; Bonmarché; Burton; Mori; John Lewis; Dorothy Perkins; Grupo Inditex; Debenhams; Wallis; Europe; Ireland; Bay Trading; Peacock Group; Sainsbury's; Asos; Oasis; Miss Selfridge; Germany; Product offer; Evans; Russia; COS; Mackays; Waitrose; Alexon Brands; Old Navy; Specialists; Inditex; Brands/product offer; Aurora; Banana Republic; Gap Inc; Warehouse; Personality:; Room for improvement; Strengths; What the consumer thinks; Karen Millen; Sainsbury’s; House of Fraser; Bershka; France; Spain; Netherlands; Christmas; TJ Hughes; Sir Philip Green; Mosaic; Belgium; Freeview; Morrisons; Somerfield; Alexon Group; Rubicon; European; Asia; Pull&Bear; Store portfolio; Middle East; Directory; Porter; Alexon; Ann Harvey; Kaliko; Minuet; India; Autumn/Winter; Home; Autograph; Indigo; Portfolio; Et Vous; VAT; George; Alex & Co; Baugur; Tammy; Massimo Dutti; Menswear
Contents

Issues in the Market

Main themes

Definitions

Abbreviations

Market in Brief

Future

Deflation pervades

Consumer context

Competitive landscape

Internal Market Environment

Key points

Clothing takes the biggest hit among those cutting back

Figure 1: The items adults are cutting back on in the recession, February 2009

The price dilemma for retailers

Figure 2: UK clothing price deflation, 2005-Q2 2009

The young – in denial?

Less concerned about their finances

Figure 3: UK: Concern over finances, % point change, Feb 2008-Jun 2009

But have they reached the tipping point?

Figure 4: UK: Concern over job prospects, 18-25s, February 2008-June 2009

Changing allegiances

Figure 5: Selected retailers where the 18-25s buy clothes, May 2008 and July 2009

Competition from non-specialists

Figure 6: Clothing specialists as % of all spending on clothing and footwear, 2001-08

The power of the internet

Broader Market Environment

Key points

Mixed impact of changing demographics

Figure 7: Implications of changing demographics of the UK population for clothing market, 2009-14

Late 2008 – the economy moves into recession

Figure 8: UK: GDP real growth, 1999-Q2 2009

2008 – consumer confidence in freefall…but retail sales robust

Figure 9: Nationwide Consumer Confidence Index, Jan 2006-July 2009

2009 – confidence starts to recover…will retail sales follow?

Figure 10: UK: Retail sales value growth, 2007-09 (August)

Implications for clothes retailing

Competitive Context

Key points

Clothing performance held back by deflation

Figure 11: Consumer spending on clothing and other fashion-influenced product markets, 2004-08
Figure 12: Growth in spending on clothing and other fashion-influenced product markets, 2004-08

Spending patterns change in the recession

Figure 13: Growth in spending on clothing and other fashion-influenced product markets, 2007-09

And men cut back more

Figure 14: Clothing spending breakdown, 2004 vs 2008

Consumer prices

Figure 15: Consumer prices on select fashion-influenced categories, 1996-2008
Figure 16: Consumer prices on select fashion-influenced categories, 1996-2008

Strengths and Weaknesses in the Market

Strengths

Weaknesses

Sector Size and Forecast

Key points

Economic and consumer outlook

Retail forecasts

Improving short term outlook for retail
Clothing specialists should maintain retail market share in 2009
Longer term they should outperform all retail
Figure 17: UK: Clothing specialists sales, 2004-14

Past trends

Clothing specialists struggle to hold onto retail market share
Figure 18: UK: Clothing specialists sales, 2004-08
Figure 19: UK: Clothing specialists as % of all retail sales, 1999-2008

Channels of Distribution

Figure 20: UK: Clothing market – channels of distribution, 2006 and 2008
Specialists
Department stores struggle to maintain market share
Grocers catch up with department stores
Home shopping
Others

Retailer Competitor Analysis

Key points

Leading specialists

Value retailers make significant gains
Young fashion holds up too
But the mid-market has been seriously squeezed
Rebuilding for the future
Figure 21: Leading clothing retailers, 2008/09

Evaluation

Figure 22: Selected UK clothing retailers, evaluation, 2009

Market shares

Figure 23: UK: Leading clothing retailers, market shares, 2008

Retail Advertising and Promotion

Key points

Cutting back in the downturn

Figure 24: Main media advertising spend, by leading clothing retailers, 2004/05-2008/09
M&S dominates
Next builds why Matalan contracts
Figure 25: Top three advertisers – spending index, 2004/05-2008/09

Spending by media

Figure 26: Main media advertising spend, by leading clothing retailers, by media, 2008/09

The Consumer – Where They Buy Clothing

Key points

Where they buy clothing

Figure 42: Where they buy clothes, July 2009

The changing face of the UK high street

Figure 43: Outlets used for purchasing clothing in the last 12 months, 2004-09

Who buys where

Women far more enthusiastic shoppers than men
Figure 44: Where they buy clothes – top 10, by gender, July 2009
Next corners the 25-44-year-old market
Figure 45: Where they bought clothes in the last 12 months – top 10, by select age bands, July 2009
And e-commerce grabs the attention of the young
Figure 46: Internet shoppers, by age, July 2009

M&S dominates the older end of the market

Figure 47: Where they bought clothes in the last 12 months – top 10, by select age bands, July 2009
M&S and department stores well placed to benefit from socio-economic shift
Figure 48: Selected retailers where they buy clothes, by socio-economic group, July 2009
Cross category shopping
Figure 49: Where they bought clothes in last 12 months, by grocery stores used, July 2009
Figure 50: Where they bought clothes in last 12 months, by grocery stores used, July 2009

Alexon Group

Figure 64: Alexon Group Plc: Sales as share of clothing retailers’ sales in UK, 2004-08

Recent history

Financial performance

Figure 65: Alexon Group Plc: Group financial performance, 2004/05-2008/09

Store portfolio

Figure 66: Alexon Group Plc: Outlet data, 2005-09

Retail offering

Market positioning
Brands
Figure 67: Alexon Group: List of brands, 2008/09
e-commerce and home shopping

Arcadia Group

Figure 68: Arcadia Group Brands Ltd: Sales as share of clothing specialists in the UK, 2004-08

Strategic evaluation

Recent history

Financial performance

Figure 69: Arcadia Group: Group financial performance, 2003/04-2007/08

Store portfolio

Figure 70: Arcadia Group Brands Ltd: Outlet data, 2004-08
Figure 71: Arcadia Group: Breakdown of international outlets, September 2009
Figure 72: Arcadia Group: Breakdown of European outlets, by fascia, September 2009

Retail offering

Topshop

Market positioning
Brands/product offer
Pricing

Topman

Market positioning
Brands/product offer
Pricing

Dorothy Perkins

Market positioning
Brands/product offer
Pricing

Burton

Market positioning
Brands/product offer
Pricing

Miss Selfridge

Market positioning
Brands/product offer
Pricing

Evans

Market positioning
Brands/product offer
Pricing

Wallis

Market positioning
Brands/product offer
Pricing
e-commerce and home shopping
Figure 73: Arcadia Group: Websites, 2009

Aurora Fashions (formerly Mosaic Fashions)

Figure 74: Aurora Fashions Ltd: Sales as share of clothing specialists’ sales in Europe, 2004-08

Strategic evaluation

Recent history

Financial performance

Figure 75: Mosaic Fashions: Group financial performance, 2004/05-2008/09

Store portfolio

Figure 76: Mosaic Fashions: Outlet data, 2004-09
Figure 77: Mosaic Fashions: Outlets by country, August 2009

Retail offering

Coast

Market positioning
Brands/Product offer
Pricing

Karen Millen

Market positioning
Brands/Product offer
Pricing

Oasis

Market positioning
Brands/Product offer
Figure 78: Oasis: brands, 2009
Pricing

Warehouse

Market positioning
Brands/Product offer
Pricing
e-commerce and home shopping

Benetton Group

Figure 79: Benetton (UK): Estimated retail sales as share of clothing specialists in the UK, 2004-08

Strategic evaluation

Recent history

Figure 80: Benetton Group: Group financial performance, 2004-08
Figure 81: Benetton UK: Financial performance, 2004-08

Store portfolio

Figure 82: Benetton Group: Outlet data, 2004-08

Retail offering

Market positioning
Product offer
Advertising and marketing
e-commerce and home shopping

Bhs

Figure 83: Bhs Plc: Sales as share of clothing specialists’ sales in UK, 2003-07

Strategic evaluation

History

Financial performance

Figure 84: Bhs Plc: Group financial performance, 2003/04-2007/08

Store portfolio

Figure 85: Bhs Plc: Outlet data, 2005-09
Figure 86: Bhs: International franchises, number of outlets, 2003-08

Retail offering

Market positioning
Product offer
Brands
Figure 87: Bhs: Brands, 2009
Pricing
Operational issues
e-commerce and home shopping

Gap

Figure 88: Gap Inc: UK sales as share of clothing specialists’ sales in UK, 2004-08

History

Financial performance

Figure 89: Gap Inc: Group financial performance, 2004/05-08/09
Figure 90: Gap UK: Financial performance, 2004/05-08/09

Store portfolio

Figure 91: Gap Inc: Outlet data, 2005-09

Retail offering

Market positioning
Brands
Figure 92: Gap Inc: Brands, 2008
Product offer/Pricing
e-commerce and home shopping

Grupo Inditex UK

Strategic evaluation

Recent history

Financial performance

Figure 93: Grupo Inditex: Group financial performance, 2004/05-2008/09
Figure 94: Grupo Inditex: Estimated sales in key European markets, 2004/05-2008/09
Figure 95: Inditex brands: Sales in the UK, 2006/07-2008/09

Store portfolio

Figure 96: Grupo Inditex: Outlet data, 2005-09
Figure 97: UK: Grupo Inditex: Stores by fascia, 2005-09

Retail offering

Market positioning

Zara

Brands
Product offer

Massimo Dutti

Product offer/pricing

Bershka

Product offer/pricing
e-commerce and home shopping
Figure 98: Grupo Inditex: Company websites, 2009

H&M Hennes & Mauritz

Figure 99: H&M Hennes & Mauritz: Sales as share of clothing specialists’ sales in the UK, 2004-08

Strategic evaluation

Recent history

Financial performance

Figure 100: H&M Hennes & Mauritz: Group financial performance, 2004-08
Figure 101: H&M Hennes & Mauritz UK Ltd: Financial performance, 2003/04-2007/08

Store portfolio

Figure 102: H&M Hennes & Mauritz: Outlet data, 2004-08

Retail offering

Market positioning
Product offer
Brands
Figure 103: H&M: Own brand portfolio, 2009
Pricing
Operations
COS
Advertising and marketing
Figure 104: H&M Hennes & Mauritz: Breakdown of UK advertising expenditure, 2008/09
e-commerce and home shopping

Mackays Stores Group

Figure 105: Mackays Stores Group Ltd: Sales as share of clothing specialists’ sales in UK, 2004-08

Recent history

Financial performance

Figure 106: Mackays Stores Group Ltd: Group financial performance, 2004/05-2008/09

Store portfolio

Figure 107: Mackays Stores Group Ltd: Outlet data, 2005-09

Retail offering

Market positioning
Product offer
Pricing
e-commerce and home shopping

Mango

Figure 108: Mango UK: Sales as share of clothing specialists’ sales in the UK, 2004-08

Strategic evaluation

Recent history

Financial performance

Figure 109: Mango Group: Group financial performance, 2004-08

UK performance

Figure 110: Mango UK Ltd: financial performance, 2004-08

Store portfolio

Figure 111: Mango Group: Outlet data, 2004-08

Retail offering

Market positioning
Brands
Product offer
Pricing
Advertising and marketing
e-commerce and home shopping

Marks & Spencer

Figure 112: Marks & Spencer (UK): Sales as share of clothing specialists’ sales in the UK, 2004-08

Strategic evaluation

Recent history

Financial performance

Figure 113: Marks & Spencer (UK): Group financial performance, 2004/05-2008/09
Figure 114: Marks & Spencer (UK): UK sales and like-for-like growth, 2004/05-2008/09
Figure 115: M&S: UK retail sales by product category, 2004/05-2008/09

Store portfolio

Figure 116: M&S: UK and ireland Outlet data, 2005-09
Figure 117: M&S: Outlets not specialising in food, by type, 2008-09

Retail offering

Market positioning
Brands/Product offer
Figure 118: Marks & Spencer: Clothing own brand portfolio, 2009
Pricing
Figure 119: Marks & Spencer: Clothing price architecture, 2004-08
Operational issues
Advertising and marketing
e-commerce and home shopping
Figure 120: M&S: M&S Direct sales, 2006/07-2008/09

Matalan

Figure 121: Matalan: Sales as share of clothing specialists’ sales in UK, 2004-08

Strategic evaluation

Recent history

Financial performance

Figure 122: Matalan: Group financial performance, 2004/05-2008/09

Store portfolio

Figure 123: Matalan: Outlet data, 2005-09

Retail offering

Market positioning
Brands/product offer
Figure 124: Matalan: Own-brand portfolio, 2009
Pricing
Advertising and marketing
e-commerce and home shopping

Monsoon

Figure 125: Monsoon Plc: Sales as share of clothing specialists’ sales in UK, 2004-08

History

Financial performance

Figure 126: Monsoon Plc: Group financial performance, 2003/04-2007/08

Store portfolio

Figure 127: Monsoon Plc: Outlet data, 2003-08

Retail offering

Market positioning
Brands/Prices
Figure 128: Monsoon Plc: Brand ranges, 2008
Product offer
e-commerce and home shopping

New Look

Figure 129: New Look Group Plc: Sales as share of clothing specialists’ sales in Europe, 2004-08
Figure 130: New Look Group Plc: Sales as share of clothing specialists’ sales in UK, 2004-08

Strategic evaluation

Recent history

Financial performance

Figure 131: New Look Group Plc: Group financial performance, 2004/05-2008/09

Store portfolio

Figure 132: New Look Group Plc: Outlet data, 2005-09
Figure 133: New Look Group PLC: Outlet data, by country, 2008-09

Retail offering

Market positioning
Brands/Product offer
Figure 134: New Look: Womenswear own brand collections, 2009
Pricing
Operational issues
Advertising and marketing
Figure 135: New Look Breakdown of advertising expenditure in the UK, 2008
e-commerce and home shopping

Next Group

Figure 136: Next Group: Sales as share of clothing specialists’ sales in the UK, 2004-08

Strategic evaluation

History

Financial performance

Figure 137: Next Group: Group financial performance, 2004/05-2008/09

Store portfolio

Figure 138: Next Group: Next Retail like-for-like sales performance, 2005/06-2008/09
Figure 139: Next Group: Outlet data, 2005-09
Figure 140: Next: International outlets, 2007-09

Retail offering

Market positioning
Brands
Product offer
Pricing
Figure 141: Next: Change in average selling prices, by season, 2006-08
Advertising and marketing
e-commerce and home shopping

Peacock Group

History

Financial performance

Figure 142: Peacock Group: Group financial performance, 2004/05-2008/09

Store portfolio

Figure 143: Peacock Group: Outlet data, 2005-09

Retail offering

Market positioning
Product offer/brands
Figure 144: Peacocks and bonmarche sub-brands, 2009
Pricing
e-commerce and home shopping

Primark/Penneys

Figure 145: Primark: Sales as share of Clothing specialists’ sales in the UK, 2004-08

Strategic evaluation

History

Financial performance

Figure 146: Primark Stores Ltd: Group financial performance, 2004-09

Store portfolio

Figure 147: Primark Stores Ltd: Outlet data, 2004-09

Retail offering

Market positioning
Brands/product offer
Figure 148: Primark: Own brand portfolio, 2008/09
Pricing
Operational issues
Advertising and marketing
e-commerce and home shopping

River Island Clothing

Figure 149: River Island Clothing Co Ltd: Sales as share of clothing specialists’ sales in UK, 2004-08

History

Financial performance

Figure 150: River Island Clothing Co Ltd: Group financial performance, 2004-08

Store portfolio

Figure 151: River Island Clothing Co Ltd: Outlet data, 2004-08
Figure 152: River Island Clothing Co Ltd: Breakdown of overseas outlets, by market, 2008

Retail offering

Market positioning
Product offer
Pricing
e-commerce and home shopping

TK Maxx

Figure 153: TK Maxx: Sales as share of clothing specialists’ sales in UK, 2004-08

History

Financial performance

Figure 154: TK Maxx: Group financial performance, 2004/05-2008/09

Store portfolio

Figure 155: TK Maxx: Outlet data, 2005-09

Retail offering

Market positioning
Product offer/brands
Pricing
e-commerce and home shopping

Appendix – Internal Market Environment

Figure 156: Selected retailers where the 15-24s buy clothes, May 2008 and July 2009

Appendix – Where They Buy Clothing

Figure 157: Where they bought clothing in last 12 months, by demographics, July 2009
Figure 158: Where they bought clothing in last 12 months, by demographics, July 2009
Figure 159: Where they bought clothing in last 12 months, by demographics, July 2009
Figure 160: Where they bought clothing in last 12 months, by demographics, July 2009