Table of Contents
Overview
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- What you need to know
- Definition
Executive Summary
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- Overview
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- Figure 1: Estimated total expenditures and forecast, by Black consumers, by segment, at current prices, 2013-23
- The issues and opportunities
- Multifunctional conditioners drive Black-targeted brand sales
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- Figure 2: Multi-outlet sales of Black haircare products, by leading companies, rolling 52 weeks 2017 and 2018
- Updated consumer segments show differences among natural consumers
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- Figure 3: Female and male Black haircare segments, July 2018
- Mainstream retailers expand product mix in store and online to attract Black shoppers
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- Figure 4: Haircare shopping locations, April 2016 vs July 2018
- Black consumers want products that do it all
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- Figure 5: Haircare trends of interest, July 2018
- Looking beautiful is the goal, and consumers make different choices to achieve it
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- Figure 6: Self-perceptions and attitudes toward hair, July 2018
- What it means
The Market – What You Need to Know
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- Haircare sales estimates are flat vs year ago, still a tale of two consumers
- Product collection sales demonstrate growing preference for targeted over mainstream brands
- Relaxer sales expected to fall to hair color totals, cementing its niche status
- Unilever latest global brand to acquire a Black consumer targeted company
Market Size and Forecast
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- Flat sales and forecast reflect category shifts and retail expansion
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- Figure 7: Estimated expenditures and fan chart forecast expenditures by Black consumers for haircare products, at current prices, 2013-23
- Figure 8: Estimated expenditures by Black consumers for haircare products, at current prices, 2013-23
Market Breakdown
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- Haircare systems continue to grow among Black consumers
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- Figure 9: Expenditures by Black consumers on haircare products by segment, at current prices, 2016-18
- Shampoo sales signal increased competition between mainstream to Black haircare brands
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- Figure 10: Estimated expenditures and fan chart forecast expenditures by Black consumers for shampoo, at current prices, 2013-23
- Figure 11: Unilever/Suave video on Essence.com, June 2017-June 2018
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- Figure 12: Garnier Whole Blends shampoo and conditioner, Essence Magazine July/August 2018 issue
- Conditioner expenditures reflect multifunctional use of targeted brands
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- Figure 13: Estimated expenditures and fan chart forecast expenditures by Black consumers on conditioner, at current prices, 2013-23
- Styling products still rule, but specific functionality drives usage
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- Figure 14: Estimated expenditures and fan chart forecast expenditures by Black consumers on styling products, at current prices, 2013-23
- Disappearing brands – and consumers contribute to falling relaxer sales
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- Figure 15: Estimated expenditures and fan chart forecast expenditures by Black consumers on relaxers, at current prices, 2013-23
- Innovative looks drive increase in hair color – for now
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- Figure 16: Estimated expenditures and fan chart forecast expenditures by Black consumers on hair color, at current prices, 2013-23
Market Trends
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- Natural haircare brands integrate into entertainment content
Market Factors
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- Unilever re-enters the Black haircare market with Sundial acquisition
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- Figure 17: SheaMoisture Empower women :15 video, June 2017-June 2018
Key Players – What You Need to Know
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- Conditioners and styling products remain Black consumers’ favorites
- Sundial is the sales leader across basic maintenance segments
- L’Oréal brands experienced the greatest market share decline vs YA
- Cantu steady sales growth set to move up rank in market share
- E-commerce growing in importance for small brands and online retailers
- Small brands’ marketing efforts cannibalize sales from major players
Black Haircare Company Manufacturer Sales
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- Products that treat and set hairstyles experience greatest growth
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- Figure 18: Multi-outlet sales of Black haircare products, by leading Black haircare companies, rolling 52 weeks 2017 and 2018
- SheaMoisture remains the leading brand, but smaller players cannibalize sales
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- Figure 19: Multi-outlet sales of Black haircare products, by leading Black haircare companies, rolling 52 weeks 2017 and 2018
- SheaMoisture leads shampoo category sales, but experiences share declines
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- Figure 20: Multi-outlet sales of shampoo, by leading Black haircare companies and brands, rolling 52 weeks 2017 and 2018
- Multi-functional conditioners that treat and style hair continue to grow
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- Figure 21: Carol’s Daughter online video featuring founder Lisa Price, June 2017-June 2018
- Figure 22: Multi-outlet sales of conditioner, by leading Black haircare companies and brands, rolling 52 weeks 2017 and 2018
- Cantu’s new product introductions pay off in increased market share
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- Figure 23: Multi-outlet sales of styling products, by leading Black haircare companies and brands, rolling 52 weeks 2017 and 2018
- Figure 24: PDC/Cantu long-form video tutorials, July 2018-August 2018
- Relaxer users turn to gentler formulas as a better for you alternative
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- Figure 25: Multi-outlet sales of relaxers, by leading Black haircare companies and brands, rolling 52 weeks 2017 and 2018
- Vivid colors and gentler formulas drive hair color purchases
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- Figure 26: Multi-outlet sales of hair color, by leading Black haircare companies and brands, rolling 52 weeks 2017 and 2018
- Figure 27: Softsheen/Carson, Dark and Lovely, Color Gloss video, June 2017-June 2018
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- Figure 28: Softsheen/Carson, Dark and Lovely, Go Intense video, June 2017-June 2018
What’s Working?
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- E-commerce offers access to small brands with limited in-store distribution
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- Figure 29: Amazon.com Textures and Hues shop launch ad, Essence Magazine, April 2018
- Sundial brands forms partnerships with small brands to reach grassroots beauty consumers
What’s Struggling?
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- Falling relaxer sales shutter brands
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- Figure 30: Multi-outlet sales of relaxer brands, by declining companies/brands, rolling 52 weeks 2017 and 2018
What’s Next?
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- Smaller players cannibalize sales from major brands
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- Figure 31: Multi-outlet sales of Black haircare products, by growing Black haircare companies, rolling 52 weeks 2017 and 2018
- Figure 32: Mielle Organics styling products and hair growth vitamins, 2018
- Figure 33: Mielle Organics print ad featuring the founder, Monique Rodriguez, Essence magazine, September 2018
- Figure 34: Curls styling products, 2017
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- Figure 35: Curls online display advertising, Cashmere + Caviar collection launch, July 2018-August 2018
- Figure 36: Curls print ad, Cashmere + Caviar collection launch and featuring founder Mahisha Dellinger, Essence September 2018
- Figure 37: The Mane Choice online display ad, June 2017-June 2018
- Cannabis and hemp-infused products for natural hair
The Consumer – What You Need to Know
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- Updated haircare segmentation highlights differences among natural consumers
- Natural consumers’ hair versatility allows them to experiment with more styles
- Black women use an average of 4.5 haircare products at home
- Expanded product selection in neighborhood stores lead to shopping location shifts
- Multifunctional products preferred over style trends
- Healthy hair is beautiful hair, but beauty standards and self-perception drive style and product choices
Black Haircare Consumer Segments
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- Female haircare segments
- “Natural” definition and practice expands across Black women
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- Figure 38: Black Female Haircare Segmentation, July 2018
- Situations that honor Natural Nina’s self-image and beliefs will foster engagement
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- Figure 39: Demographic profile of Natural Nina segment, July 2018
- Trendy Tonya seeks styles that transform her look away from the ordinary
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- Figure 40: Demographic Profile of Trendy Tonya segment, July 2018
- Relaxed Regina wants simple, everyday style that matches her conservative mindset
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- Figure 41: Demographic profile of Relaxed Regina segment, July 2018
- Adventurous Ashley is willing and able to change her style at whim
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- Figure 42: Demographic profile of Adventurous Ashley segment, July 2018
- Male haircare segments
- Most men opt for basic style, but maintenance and grooming vary by segment
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- Figure 43: Black male haircare segmentation, July 2018
- Handsome Henry’s style reflects his disposition toward decorum
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- Figure 44: Demographic profile of Handsome Henry segment, July 2018
- Stylish Steve is willing to be daring in his looks
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- Figure 45: Demographic profile of Stylish Steve segment, July 2018
- Classic Carl’s no-fuss approach requires little maintenance beyond ensuring hair health
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- Figure 46: Demographic profile of Classic Carl segment, July 2018
Black Hair Texture Categorization
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- Nearly half of Black consumers have coiled hair
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- Figure 47: Haircare texture categorization, July 2018
- Fewer women relative to men report having zig-zag hair texture
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- Figure 48: Haircare texture categorization, by gender, July 2018
Hairstyles Worn Within the Past Year
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- Most consumers maintain a consistent look
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- Figure 49: Hairstyles worn within the last 12 months, by anytime and current to past three months, July 2018
- Young women crave variety in their hairstyles, mature women value consistency
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- Figure 50: Hairstyles worn within the last 12 months, by female haircare segments, July 2018
- Young men are adopting hairstyles outside of traditional fades
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- Figure 51: Hairstyles worn within the last 12 months, by male haircare segment, July 2018
- Natural hair wearers who regularly style their hair more open to all looks
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- Figure 52: Hairstyles worn within last 12 months, by natural hairstyles worn within last 12 months, July 2018
- Weave, wig, and braid styles protect natural hair underneath
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- Figure 53: Hairstyles worn within last 12 months, by non-natural hairstyles worn within last 12 months, July 2018
Haircare Product Usage at Home
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- Styling products offer brands the opportunity to differentiate
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- Figure 54: Haircare product usage at home, July 2018
- Most women use at least five products to achieve her style
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- Figure 55: Count of haircare product usage at home, by gender, July 2018
- Social media and influencers drive young women to use more product
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- Figure 56: Haircare product usage at home, by gender and age, July 2018
- Natural hair wearers use the greatest number of products
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- Figure 57: Count of haircare product usage at home, by hairstyle worn within the past 12 months, July 2018
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- Figure 58: Haircare product usage at home, by hairstyle worn within the past 12 months, July 2018
Haircare Shopping Locations
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- Low prices and brand availability drive product purchase
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- Figure 59: Haircare shopping locations, April 2016 vs July 2018
- Figure 60: SheaMoisture/local beauty supply Facebook display advertising, August 2018
- Heavy product users drive loyalty to fewer shopping locations
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- Figure 61: Haircare shopping locations by number of products used, July 2018
- Prevent style chasers from comparison shopping in multiple locations
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- Figure 62: Haircare shopping locations, by female segments, July 2018
Hair Self-Perceptions
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- Validate Black consumers’ state of mind when they feel they look their best
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- Figure 63: Self-perceptions based on hairstyle, any rank and top five out of eleven ranked by gender, July 2018
- Amplify what drives women’s beauty through their hair
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- Figure 64: Self-perceptions based on hairstyle, top three by female segments, July 2018
- Recognize Black men’s lifestage when showcasing their style
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- Figure 65: Self-perceptions based on hairstyle, top three by male segments, July 2018
Haircare Trends of Interest
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- Products that simultaneously treat and style most desired
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- Figure 66: Word cloud of top three out of seven preferred functions in an ideal haircare product, August 2018
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- Figure 67: Haircare trends of interest, July 2018
- Young women more likely to experiment with styles, Gen Xers look for convenience
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- Figure 68: Haircare trends of interest, by females and age group, July 2018
- Multifunctional products and collections are greens fees for testing hairstyle methods
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- Figure 69: Haircare trends of interest, by female segment, July 2018
- Young men open to weaves to wear desired styles unachievable with their own hair
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- Figure 70: Haircare trends of interest, by males and age group, July 2018
Attitudes toward Hair
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- Healthy hair mindset drives styling and product choices
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- Figure 71: Attitudes toward hair, July 2018
- Being healthy is a lifestyle for some, and translates to styling differences among segments
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- Figure 72: Attitudes toward hair, by female haircare segments, July 2018
- Easy, go-to hairstyles are equally important to maintaining health
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- Figure 73: Attitudes toward hair, by male haircare segments, July 2018
Appendix – Data Sources and Abbreviations
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- Data sources
- Sales data
- Fan chart forecast
- Consumer survey data
- Consumer qualitative research
- Abbreviations and terms
- Abbreviations
- Terms
Appendix – The Market
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- Figure 74: Total expenditures by Black consumers on haircare products, at current prices, 2013-23
- Figure 75: Total expenditures by Black consumers on haircare products, at inflation adjusted prices, 2013-23
- Figure 76: Estimated expenditures and forecast expenditures by Black consumers on haircare products, by segment, at current prices, 2013-23
- Figure 77: Total expenditures by Black consumers on haircare products, by segment, at current prices, 2016 and 2018
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- Figure 78: Expenditures by Black consumers on shampoo, at current prices, 2013-23
- Figure 79: Expenditures by Black consumers on shampoo, at inflation-adjusted prices, 2013-23
- Figure 80: Expenditures by Black consumers on conditioner, at current prices, 2013-23
- Figure 81: Expenditures by Black consumers on conditioner, at inflation-adjusted prices, 2013-23
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- Figure 82: Expenditures by Black consumers on styling products, at current prices, 2013-23
- Figure 83: Expenditures by Black consumers on styling products, at inflation-adjusted prices, 2013-23
- Figure 84: Expenditures by Black consumers on relaxers, at current prices, 2013-23
- Figure 85: Expenditures by Black consumers on relaxers, at inflation-adjusted prices, 2013-23
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- Figure 86: Expenditures by Black consumers on hair color, at current prices, 2013-23
- Figure 87: Expenditures by Black consumers on hair color, at inflation-adjusted prices, 2013-23
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